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04-01-2008, 11:47 PM
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#1 |
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Traveler
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 3,998
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LC4 Competition Silencer rebuild(or the SXC), anyone?
Guys,
I need some help. Anyone done a repack on the Competition muffler(or the stock SXC muff). Do you know the packing numbers? How does it come apart? How did the job come out? Packing part numbers I have found for the SXC muffler are: 0770223601 orings(2) 58305078002 stuffing yarn rear(90 gm) 58305078000 Stuffing yarn front(400 grams) I could find nothing else or a thread relating to a repack. Anyone? bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered "On the road there are no special cases." Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing The faster it goes the faster it breaks. And high performance=high maintenance. Bill Shockley |
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04-02-2008, 05:14 AM
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#2 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Roswell, Ga.
Oddometer: 195
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Bump
Also, would like to know as I think my SXC needs doing after the best part of 6k miles
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04-02-2008, 07:29 AM
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#3 |
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Traveler
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 3,998
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Slow,
Mine has close to 15K miles. It's got a headturner bark that bites. b
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered "On the road there are no special cases." Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing The faster it goes the faster it breaks. And high performance=high maintenance. Bill Shockley |
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04-02-2008, 10:10 AM
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#4 |
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maphead
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: At the foot of the mighty Sierra Nevada
Oddometer: 637
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Is it riveted?
I have rebuilt the can on my buddies sxc, but not sure if it is the same can.
The can was riveted to the exhaust and the end cap is held on by screws. You will have to drill out the rivets to get access to the to the front baffle. There are 2 ways to drill out a rivet 1) if you know the size and have a good set up you can drill down into it till it comes off. This is the hardest way. 2) Use a drill that is larger that the rivet and drill just deep enough to pop the head off. Be careful not to drill into the can material. A drill press is recomended but with a steady hand and a good set up a hand drill will work. If you must you can go to the next size rivet, in the case of wallowed out holes. I use 3/16" dia stainless steel rivets, aluminum rivets will not hold up to the vibration of the lc4. Use back up washers on the out side. I use silent sport packing, its a non directional wool, and it works pretty good and is easy to work with. After disassembly the can needs to be packed before re-riveting to the exhaust, youll never get the baffel in place or it packed sufficiently whill riveted together. If you have the right tools its an easy job otherwise it can be a pain.
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