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Old 11-16-2011, 12:50 PM   #61
Disco Dean
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Originally Posted by DanielR View Post
Oh, also.

Fitted price to fix the cracked flange....... 1103.87 ... where's the pound symbol. that's not dollars that's pounds... that on top of what it's going to cost for fixing all the damage the joy rider did from snipping the wires and busting the steering lock. that's 3000 pounds more. The bike is almost worth that.... I got 99 problems but a #%%)^h ain't one.
How'd they get around the key chip???
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:25 PM   #62
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Oh, also.

Fitted price to fix the cracked flange....... 1103.87
What do they charge for labor, $300/hour?
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:55 AM   #63
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[QUOTE=DanielR;17316311]Oh, also.
Fitted price to fix the cracked flange....... 1103.87 ... QUOTE]

That is labor?

I spent $600 replacing my flange. I also replaced the rear rotor and mounting bolts plus bracket for the rear mudguard.
$500 in parts and $100 in tools.
I bought a slide hammer puller at HaborFreight for $70. It came with an axel flange attachment which fit the flange on my bike.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:34 AM   #64
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Pissed

I need a garage. Don't have one here in London.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:58 PM   #65
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My '05 has cracks at all fastening points. I asked A&S about replacement and got a, "Sure we'll replace it for you. $245.00 for the part plus labor." I asked if a critclal piece such as the flang shouldn't be expected to go more than 60K, I got a shoulder shrug. He did check, and low and behold there wasn't even an advisory from BMW about the issue. Seems a safety thing, but who knows what BMW thinks.
Another point; I had them replace the output shaft seal and bearing 10k ago. They fucked it up and had to re-do the thing. Probably pissed em off and the mech put a few pounds more torque on than he should have. This last is my assumption and not proven fact, but I use a torque wrench on all critcle tightening.
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:55 AM   #66
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are you serious Clark? 245$? I have yet to respond to Battersea BMW here in London about the bike and they have not called me to ask yet. I need to make some phone calls to my shop that i used in Chicago and see what they would have charged me as i trust them.

This is a great resource thanks to all.
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:41 AM   #67
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I need a garage. Don't have one here in London.
Sorry, that is hard.

If I was able to do this any competent mechanic will have an easy time replacing the flange. I’d skip the dealer and find someone else to do it.

Directions for R &R on the flange can be found in marchymans thread. Below is a link
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528244
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Old 11-18-2011, 06:01 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Slaniac View Post
My '05 has cracks at all fastening points. I asked A&S about replacement and got a, "Sure we'll replace it for you. $245.00 for the part plus labor." I asked if a critclal piece such as the flang shouldn't be expected to go more than 60K, I got a shoulder shrug. He did check, and low and behold there wasn't even an advisory from BMW about the issue. Seems a safety thing, but who knows what BMW thinks.
Another point; I had them replace the output shaft seal and bearing 10k ago. They fucked it up and had to re-do the thing. Probably pissed em off and the mech put a few pounds more torque on than he should have. This last is my assumption and not proven fact, but I use a torque wrench on all critcle tightening.
My dealer - replaced it no questions asked...

"Of course - it is a safety issue" Also - considering BMW are updating them and as noted a steel one is on the way - it is hard for them to say anything.

The drill at a dealer is - when there is a question - dealer just does it or they call the national cust service rep and "they" make the call... if your dealer doesn't even call - you get nothing.

I'd call BMW and scream and yell.... tell them you almost fell off on the highway due to vibration...

The part - if you want to do it at home is very very easy to replace - easier than changing a tire for sure.

Heat gun or small propane torch - a small cookie sheet to deflect heat if you use the torch and a harbor freight puller set. I got mine from Princess auto for $70 bucks and it can be used for a bunch of other things. Heat it up to 110c I think and it slides off. Put the new one in the freezer (sort of helps) and it slides on easy... Put the clip back on and wheel and you are good.

Because I was in another city - my shop trusted me and sent me the replacement - and just asked I send them the bad one back.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:37 AM   #69
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My dealer - replaced it no questions asked...

"Of course - it is a safety issue" Also - considering BMW are updating them and as noted a steel one is on the way - it is hard for them to say anything.

The drill at a dealer is - when there is a question - dealer just does it or they call the national cust service rep and "they" make the call... if your dealer doesn't even call - you get nothing.

I'd call BMW and scream and yell.... tell them you almost fell off on the highway due to vibration...

The part - if you want to do it at home is very very easy to replace - easier than changing a tire for sure.

Heat gun or small propane torch - a small cookie sheet to deflect heat if you use the torch and a harbor freight puller set. I got mine from Princess auto for $70 bucks and it can be used for a bunch of other things. Heat it up to 110c I think and it slides off. Put the new one in the freezer (sort of helps) and it slides on easy... Put the clip back on and wheel and you are good.

Because I was in another city - my shop trusted me and sent me the replacement - and just asked I send them the bad one back.
Putting the new one in a freezer makes no sense to me at all. Are you sure about that?

Putting it in a freezer would shrink it and make it harder to get on.

Did you mean to say to put it in an oven for a little while to get it hot & expanded to make it go on easier?
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:03 PM   #70
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BMW Covered Flange Replacement

Quote:
My dealer - replaced it no questions asked...

"Of course - it is a safety issue" Also - considering BMW are updating them and as noted a steel one is on the way - it is hard for them to say anything.

The drill at a dealer is - when there is a question - dealer just does it or they call the national cust service rep and "they" make the call... if your dealer doesn't even call - you get nothing.
I just picked up the new steel flange and spacer today for my '05. Hansen's of Medford, Oregon got it for me at no cost from BMW even though I am the bike's third owner. Eight of ten holes in the original aluminum flange for wheel and disk brake fasteners were cracked at 29K miles--yes, a safety issue!

Instructions say to heat flange to 130 degrees Celsius for reassembly. Will give it a go tomorrow.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:13 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Beemerlover View Post
Putting the new one in a freezer makes no sense to me at all. Are you sure about that?

Putting it in a freezer would shrink it and make it harder to get on.

Did you mean to say to put it in an oven for a little while to get it hot & expanded to make it go on easier?


Sorry yah -Oven for about 35 minutes then slipped on... duhhh
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:36 PM   #72
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Not exactly....

"Easy Peasy," that is. After lining all my proverbial ducks up in a neat row--heating the new flange for a half hour in a 350 degree oven (three page instruction sheet calls for 130 degrees C.), it slipped right on. All but the last .020". Merde! So I had to go into town and get a T55 to take the FD off the bike so I could nudge it the last microsmidgen with the shop press.

All carefully torqued and back together now, but instead of a test ride I'm having a Jim Beam Rye. I've been shade tree wrenching on Beemers for nearly forty years, but I still need to learn to breathe more and cuss less.....

Can't complain though, total cost about zero, unless I count the white knuckle snow and ice schuss over to Medford yesterday.

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Old 11-23-2011, 02:28 AM   #73
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So the reason for the quote of 1100 pounds was that they thought the new part would not fit on the 04 final drive.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:35 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldairhd View Post
"Easy Peasy," that is. After lining all my proverbial ducks up in a neat row--heating the new flange for a half hour in a 350 degree oven (three page instruction sheet calls for 130 degrees C.), it slipped right on. All but the last .020". Merde! So I had to go into town and get a T55 to take the FD off the bike so I could nudge it the last microsmidgen with the shop press.

All carefully torqued and back together now, but instead of a test ride I'm having a Jim Beam Rye. I've been shade tree wrenching on Beemers for nearly forty years, but I still need to learn to breathe more and cuss less.....

Can't complain though, total cost about zero, unless I count the white knuckle snow and ice schuss over to Medford yesterday.

Oldairhead
Klamath Falls

Is that the new unit - doesn't look steel but looks cast to me - the old one was billet machined....

Is that it is that it is that it!!!!
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:24 AM   #75
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Is that the new unit - doesn't look steel but looks cast to me - the old one was billet machined....

Is that it is that it is that it!!!!
Steel can be cast. Even believe it or not, iron. I'm surprised that BMW would invest the huge amount of capitol in a fictional process like "billet machining". Billet is a noun, not an adjective. It is a reference to the form in which the raw material is presented. You can buy a billet of aluminum in any alloy you want. It isn't some super exotic high strength form. Wood comes in billets. The correct usage would be "It was machined from a billet of XXXX alloy aluminum".
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