If I had a broken would I would certainly try to repair it. you know, I was a welder, but I recall in an FAA repair shop lots of pratt and whitney spinny parts getting balanced and massaged with a rawhide hammer and some heat also.
Made no noise. I could feel a slight vibration in the swing arm with my boot heal. When I took the shaft out, I could feel the stiffness in the one axis of the joint. The other axis felt and look fine.
Once you get it back, the ladies (guys too) would like photos and your comments regarding the repair, service and cost. Thank you.
Def, Thank you for mentioning that. It will be great to see Bruno's actual work. And khlesea, if it's not too late, would you mind taking and posting photos of the joints/yokes/driveshaft before you send it off, too? Thank you everyone! Liz PS: if anyone is wondering why I'm interested, my curiosity was piqued when this happened. That made my third driveshaft in seven years, different bikes. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=973144
I would check it for driveline slop occasionally, but failure at that low a mileage would be unusual given the duty you do with it. I would especially check it before a long trip, notchiness is not a definitive precursor to failure, it's indicative of the typical range it goes through.
What bit would cut that grove? There's router bits with a bearing for depth.If there's a bit that would ride on flat bottom for depth,it could almost be cut by hand.Sounds too easy! Time to ask one of my machinist friends. I ground a stuck clip out with a Dremel 30 yrs ago.Took a lot of patients.lol
Sorry Def it's already in the mail to Bruno but it looked pristine just felt notchy. Doing a BDR in Colorado this summer and I know I'll feel better with Bruno's repair now if I can get that SOB retainer to stay in the front swingarm boot I won't have to drink this much
khelsea, My BMW REProm for my 2001 GS says to orient the gator spring clip with the opening in the horizontal plane. Also, grease is to be applied to the lips of the gator where it engages with the Paralever housing and the stub on the transmission. The last time I installed mine, I assembled the spring clip into the gator and attached it onto the housing. Then, I fit the gator onto the transmission stub. Others with more experience than I will offer more detail.
I didn't know he painted them? That's the grease Bruno used. Think it was $450, was a little nervous about giving my CC info over the phone,but no issues WRTT.
A machinist would likely take a piece of tool steel, grind a cutter to the required width of the groove, chuck the tool in a mill, place the work piece in some sort of fixture and cut the groove into the yoke bore. A mill with three axis control would be preferred....probably lots of inmates out there with access to the machine, skill and the knowledge. Locating the groove at the proper depth to provide proper concentricity and alignment of the u-joint is important.
A lathe like the one in the Youtube with a boring head is another way. You touch off the face of the yoke then step in the proper distance and cut the grove. The tool shown has carbide inserts that can bought the proper size for the grove.
No paint on the twos I sent him the last few years. And I'd rather not have it painted. But I do keep them well greased to prevent corrosion. In the worse case scenario that corrosion may creep between the needle caps and yokes. That in turns tightens the U-joints and they shouldn't be tight.:eek1 I have lots of pics of them theories......I just don't feel like posting them.I am done with them obsessions.Someone else can obsess....! Last one sent was a little over a year ago. I think less than CA$400.00, exchange is in you guys favor these days.