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Old 10-22-2013, 10:35 PM   #31
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodButcher View Post
I used some of the plasticote dip stuff on the rim holders of my original design one and that stopped the slipping.

I also have found that I don't use the long bar anymore for mounting and unmounting the tire. Just for bead breaking. So with normal levers I don't apply any rotational force to the tire and they don't slip.
the original design had hooks on the end of those 3 clamp points to hold the rim by pushing inwards. you could clamp with enough force and those hooks would hold but would often scratch the rim or leave red paint. also the hooks are too small for boxer gs rims. mojo blocks fixed all of this.

this design has nothing but a flat bar that is suppose to hold by pressure?
i went to HF and looked at it. useless pos beyond belief. until mitch comes up with some new bolt on mojo blocks or someone has a solution it's useless. the original design also came with 2 different sized center bar.

yes the only time i use the crude mount bar is to break a bead. i lay a few towels on the ground and crack the bead in a second. i guess if you're using just hand spoons, then a mx stand http://cycleplicity.com/products/385...FeJDMgodihAA-g will work just fine.

the design idea with the mojo lever and tubeless tires is you get the bead started, lube the edge up with ruglyde, position the mojo lever & pivot it on the center bar. then you just walk around the tire and the mojo lever mount end moves the bead onto the rim. it takes 10 seconds to walk around the tire and mount a bead. you then repeat for the other bead and fill the tire with fast air inflation.

this is exactly how my mount tool is setup. that top L piece is trashed and useless. all you need is the center pivot bar. when he has the tire off, you can see the added white mojo blocks.



you can see the original design with those hold hooks in this video.
like many he coated his hooks, but mojo blocks are better.
when he refers to the no-mar bar, he's talking about mojo levers.




here is the new design. who the hell though this would hold a mc rim???
most everything about the new top part is designed different (in a bad way).
the original had quick removable pegs and clips to reposition the 2 clamp pieces (the 3rd screwed in). the new one has slow to move bolts, but this can be fixed with a trip to the hardware store. the clamps piece mount holes are drilled different. the clamps, or lack of, are different. the supplied center bar has 2 size option in uncoated alum. this new one is 1 size only with red paint that will be left lingering in your bearings. from above we see the threads are not the same as the old.
HF did a real clusterfuck in whomever they had build this new one.

if you look at the original design it has a flat metal surface ahead of those lips.
when i looked at the new design that area ahead of those upright plates (where the hooks should be) is devoid of a flat plate. it's on that flat plated (ahead of the hooks) that the mojo blocks are mounted. you drill the plate and bolt through the blocks and plate. w/o flat bar in that area the current mojo block design has no place to sit on.

more than likely mitch will make the mojo blocks stand taller in height and bolt through the back plate (that is suppose to hold the rim) & make it wider so it sits out-board on the top of the 2 upright pieces of metal.

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eakins screwed with this post 10-22-2013 at 11:06 PM
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:51 AM   #32
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Yup. Pretty much what I found too. The center bar doesn't even work on my vstrom wheel. I am using a 2 ft 1/2 extension.

All in all im pretty pissed.

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Old 10-23-2013, 08:41 AM   #33
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post

more than likely mitch will make the mojo blocks stand taller in height and bolt through the back plate (that is suppose to hold the rim) & make it wider so it sits out-board on the top of the 2 upright pieces of metal.

Ignoring the fact that Mitch stole his design from a friend of mine, I actually think this new design of HF unit will be easier to use once you fabricate a new block for it. Maybe a wedge block to hold the tire off the rim even.

I might see if I can get one and design a block Mitch could steal!

Jim
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:17 PM   #34
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fragile_this_side_up View Post
Yup. Pretty much what I found too. The center bar doesn't even work on my vstrom wheel. I am using a 2 ft 1/2 extension.

All in all im pretty pissed.

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the center bar is too wide to fit inside the bearing?

go get some thinner alum. round bar and cut it to size.
the original design came with a thicker and thinner center bar.
it doesn't need to match the width of the hole in the tool where it sits into.
sure it will move around some, but it will still work.
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:31 PM   #35
biometrics
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easy Fix for this new design

No modifications to the new tool are necessary, and neither would the mojo blocks be necessary...

Get yourself a 12" section of appropriately sized automotive heater hose.

Cut it into 3 equal length pieces. (For you non-wrenching types that means 3 pieces 4 inches long)

Slit one side of the hose lengthwise so they will fit on the edge of your rim (after you have broken the bead).

Place them on your lower rim edge at the locations where these new strange looking rim holderz will grab/touch your wheel, and tighten the motorcycle wheel attachment till you can't move the rim. Change your tire.

When the hose pieces wear out, just replace them.

Problem solved for less than $5.00.

OR --- you can wait until the new mojo blocks are designed, engineered, stolen, and produced for sale.
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:54 PM   #36
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I got my "newly designed" version yesterday, put it together and yup it sucks in stock format for holding the wheel.

What I simply did was wrap the wheel holders in a few layers of "Rescue Tape" which is a rubbery silicon compound. and it held the wheel tightly after that.

Also toss the top device and goto your hardware store and pick up a $5 2ft section of course threaded 3/4" rod. It will mount right into the stock center ring on the changer. If 3/4" is too wide for your wheels go with 5/8".. will roll around a bit but still plenty enough to seat in the hole.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:14 AM   #37
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
I got my "newly designed" version yesterday, put it together and yup it sucks in stock format for holding the wheel.

What I simply did was wrap the wheel holders in a few layers of "Rescue Tape" which is a rubbery silicon compound. and it held the wheel tightly after that.

Also toss the top device and goto your hardware store and pick up a $5 2ft section of course threaded 3/4" rod. It will mount right into the stock center ring on the changer. If 3/4" is too wide for your wheels go with 5/8".. will roll around a bit but still plenty enough to seat in the hole.
I have an old 24" Snap-on 3/8" extension that I use in my tire changer. It bends a bit, but is plenty strong, and always pops back into straight on its own. I think threaded rod is kind of weak, and would tear up the tire bar, and the bearing surfaces on a GS wheel.


This center bar?

Unless I misunderstood what you are using it for.

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Old 12-15-2013, 11:34 PM   #38
eakins
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new mojo blocks are done from Mitch.
he has fixes for all 3 head designs.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940911
http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoblocks.htm
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Old 12-15-2013, 11:46 PM   #39
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
I got my "newly designed" version yesterday, put it together and yup it sucks in stock format for holding the wheel.

What I simply did was wrap the wheel holders in a few layers of "Rescue Tape" which is a rubbery silicon compound. and it held the wheel tightly after that.

Also toss the top device and goto your hardware store and pick up a $5 2ft section of course threaded 3/4" rod. It will mount right into the stock center ring on the changer. If 3/4" is too wide for your wheels go with 5/8".. will roll around a bit but still plenty enough to seat in the hole.
indeed the top part is not needed. everyone just trashes it.
the 1st version came with 2 thickness of rod like in the pic above.
you used the thickest rod you could that would fit through your bearing.
you want smooth rod as the mount bar (the mojo is square bar thus a flat surface) pivots around the bar as you mount/dismount. threaded bar would be bad and tear up the bar and possibly the inner bearing surface.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
new mojo blocks are done from Mitch.
he has fixes for all 3 head designs.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940911
http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoblocks.htm

Thanks for the heads up!

I just bought a HF tire changer last week and was trying to figure out which direction to take for the clamps as I knew they had changed the design.

Now I know!
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Old 01-25-2014, 01:07 PM   #41
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here's what I did, just took some nylon and made my own. took a little time to get things to fit up.




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Old 02-14-2014, 11:28 AM   #42
mylifeuncut
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MojoBlocks-Positive Review

Ordered a set of the mojoblocks to fit the new Harbor Freight changer recently. The product arrived promptly. The product is well engineered (as far I would know as engineering is not exactly for forte) and installed easily and exactly following the installation instructions. I changed a set of tires for my 1200gs soon after and the blocks gripped the rims firmly preventing any marring on the wheels. As an extra the blocks also dress up the tire changer. In short I'm very pleased. Well worth the money.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:19 PM   #43
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modding one of the new ones









I'll add some more pics when it's done.
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:15 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithinSC View Post
OK, problem.
I got the new adapter the other day, assembled no problem. Tonight I dug out the base I had bought a couple years ago and try to thread the adapter onto it.
Threads are different sizes.


Old, base has threads at .940"
New adapter has threads at .992" (or close to it)
Took some creative measures to get at the threads that are hidden inside the tube.

Threads per inch are off also.

It looks like the new supplier used the wrong screw on this one, anyone else had this problem?

I'll call them tomorrow, if nothing else I'll get it straight with the welder this weekend

(Adapter has a Made in Vietnam label)

YES! I recently discovered this too. Came here looking for solutions.... any advice?
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:12 AM   #45
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i have a complete HF tire changer here in the garage if anyones interested in it (faded paint).... in ARIZONA, will ship..... zane_28@hotmail.com
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