I have just picked up a 2nd hand 41l tank for my 1100gs. I have Hepco and Becker crash bars that are interfering with the fitting of the tank. Does anyone have a big tank fitted and what style crash bars do you have or can't you fit crash bars with the big tank.
Where did you find the 2nd hand 41L tank? Mind me asking what you paid for it? Was quoted C$2200 by TT Canada which is a little more than what I want to pay! I have been told that the HB tank protection bars just won't work with the large tanks. The TT tank is made from bullet proof material so I would be inclined not to worry about it too much as when ever my 1100 GS plays dead, it is resting on the engine crash bars and not even close to the tank crash bars. If you really want to keep the tank crash bars and want to find a home for that 41L TT tank let me know!
Hello, I have a 2002 GS which I bought used last year. It has the 41 litre tank and crash bars. The crash bars on mine are from Touratech. They fit fine and seem to be made well - although I may have them powder coated at some point. I'm looking at the 2009 Touratech parts book and on pages 354, 365 and 378, you can see pretty much what mine looks like and they sell these bars on page 361. Kinda hate to be yelling "Touratech", just because, but there's my response. Happy trails.
When I put the 41 l tank on my 1100 GS, I too had H&B guards, they wouldn't work and I had to pony up for the Touratech ones. Same with my BMW tankbag, it wouldn't fit either and yet again gave my money to Touratech. Cause and effect, I didn't realize I'd have to spend another $500 after spending so much on the tank.
I also have a TT 41l tank. It fits fine over the OEM crash bars. Let me know if you have any questions about installation.
So these TT tanks don't fit with the HB engine crash bars either? What interferes - the part that attaches to the frame under the tank? How much interference is there - minor tweaking of parts or major surgery?
your inquiry about the cost i don't think you want to know. but i will say AUD$500. I have been looking around since October last year 2 months before i got the bike. looks like i need to look around for touratech crash bars. I like the hepco bars to may need to modify the bars.
bannaman, i'm goiing to get new seals for the fuel pump and the fuel cap and at the same time replace the fuel filter and fuel lines. I had tank on and off a few times.
Now is the time to install quick-disconnects. Make one go one-way, and the other go the other-way, so that you can never re-connect them wrong. Also make a good and tight connector for in front, where it cross-feeds. Did you get a new wire arm for the fuel-gauge float? You also might have to bend it. There's a trick to bending the fuel-pump intake, so that it can get at the very-bottom of the tank. All the instructions you'll need to completely confuse yourself are available from TT. I found the german instructions to be more helpful. Do you have an RID?
Thanks bannaman, I need to make a new mount on the frame so i can bolt the tank down. I was wondring why the tank was so far forward. Will take a good look at it on Sunday.
My TT bolts to the same hole used for the OEM tank. Why do you have to make a new mount? You'd be better off finding a set of OEM crash bars in the flea market, or getting a set of TT crash bars. BTW, you better get this mounted up by tomorow, because I'm going out of town starting on Friday. Otherwise you're going to have to figure it out on your own.
the front beak is out from down cart wheels in the bush last month thats why i thought i may have to adjust the tank mount i can't work out is how to bend the fuel pump intakes to get to the bottom of the tank. Any tips would be great thanks so far.
I never heard of bending the intake pipe...that scares me. All you do is simply rotate the entire assembly (I think it was clockwise but check) and rebolt it so the intake is further down in the tank than it would be in the stock location. Doing this will get to most of the fuel. I went ahead and ordered the extension kit from TT so my intake strainer sits on the bottom. My wife took German in high school and was able to decipher the instructions for it..trust me, that was colorful....her,,, trying to give me technical motorcycle related instructions... . So after a couple of hours she started talking to me again.... It was more like you had to decipher it twice..once for the words used and again to turn the actual instructions into chronologically correct steps.
Due to the shape of the bottom of the tank ( the tank cuts in at bottom) you are unable to rotate the pump Anti clockwise to get to the bottom of the tank. If you can bend the fuel inlets about 1" you can rotate to sit at the bottom of the tank.
Ohhh you mean bend them INSIDE the tank...yea, no problem there, more to work with, I was thinking he was referring to the short outer spout.
I told you that reading it in German was more fun! It took me a few tries to get the float arm bent right. Now my RID reads full-bars for the first 150 miles, then it goes down really fast. The first time I installed the float-arm, I did it wrong, and had to decide: drain 11 gallons of fuel, or ride 400 miles. I compromised. Are you drilling out the filler neck? I put a few 1/4" holes about an inch from the top. I'm glad I didn't go higher, because if I fill it up past the little holes, and then put the bike right-side-up, any extra fuel just drains out of the vent. But if you don't drill out the filler neck, you'll waste 15 minutes at the fuel pump every time you want to top yourself off. I can get more fuel in if I leave the bike on the side stand.
Using the extension kit vs. rotating the whole assembly works much better! (IMHO) As well as the you don't need to bend the fuel guage float arm for it to work correctly. http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/show.lasso?sku=100-0014&-session=touratech:1822D51509e3d16CABTiy2C9C5E1 As for crash bars I have a set of SW-Motech's for my 1150... http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2088/120/ The tank fits fine though I noticed after the first season wear marks from a contact point between the tank and bar just above the throttle body on both sides. Some rubber strips and epoxy put that issue to bed.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o></o> <o></o> Good luck...<o></o>
Using the extension kit vs. rotating the whole assembly works much better! (IMHO) As well as the you don't need to bend the fuel guage float arm for it to work correctly. http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/sh...6CABTiy2C9C5E1 yeah checked this out on the TT site saturday morning. I'm going to look look around for a 2nd fuel guage so i can heep using both tank depending on what i'm doing/going. 7.5 minutes swapping tanks is better than 30 minutes
