are you going to do valve adjustments? I've had good results like you described ...better with the wheel than with the kickstarter, I find the kickstarter has a tendency to make the flywheel bounce backwards at time and not be as smooth and if you have a stock cam the autodecompressor will engage causing your valve adjustments to be off. So make sure its a constant slow movement to TDC and I think you should be fine!
I didn't explain my self very good. This goes on your case breather, so on long runs you do not loose oil, mist, out of your case breather. I am looking to go 1000 miles (for my iron butt patch), and I have heard of loosing a lot of oil on long slab running.
I've got a friend that showed me how last weekend... I sort of helped, and it seems all went well. The only part that made me nervous was that before the adjustment we dialed it to TDC a few times with NO movement in the rockers, which made me think that we weren't at TDC, but my friend said that my valves were just way too tight, and that i should have done it awhile ago. I just had the bike out and it feels fine. I read that it should sound like a sewing machine if it's done correctly, and i don't think it has that sound really. Should i ride it around and then go check the tolerances again? I'm amazed at how "easy" it is to get in there and tinker!
Never use the kicker to get TDC as it brings the auto decomp on. Turn the crank backwards at the flywheel. I don't have an auto decomp so i'm good.
You did fine, and I followed you I just never thought of a PCV valve limiting oil blow by since it would be in suspension in the air? But I'm not saying you are wrong just haven't thought of it for limiting oil loss? for a cheap piece I don't think it could hurt anything. I did 700 miles in one weekend and didn't notice any oil volume loss. I have heard about these piggies loosing oil as well but understood it to coincide with hard accelerations and such (I've noticed it more after a few weekends of offroad only riding) but I haven't ridden a consistent 1000 miles in under 24hrs, I'd think consistent speeds should limit oil loss but let us know how it goes!
what about a Procom aftermarket high performance CDI Box/ Rev. Kit/ Igniter. Worth having? also, what's "reasonable" valve adjustment schedule? book says 600 miles. ya, right... I was thinking i'd do 'em every time i put a new back tire on.
Agreed... also this bike won't sound like a sewing machine because its noisy by nature and if you have an aluminum skid plate it amplifies it and directs it up! its better for valves to be on the noisy side than on the tight side. But you can't hurt anything by learning if you want to recheck the clearance.
Not familiar with the aftermarket CDI but as far as the valve adjustment goes I'd at least check it per recommendations or ...every couple of months (depending on how much you ride a month), with these valves known for sinking into the soft head its major problems if it gets away from you. Its < 10 min process if the tank is already off. I check mine every oil change and sometimes more often because I have my tank off frequently just tinkering and its so easy to pop the covers and rotate to TDC and slip a gauge under...usually it doesn't require adjusting and I throw it back together! So I know you don't want to hear it and it is your bike so the ultimate decision is yours but they recommend 600 miles for a reason. Better than the CRF which requires it like every few riding hours! Just my opinon.
after seeing how easy it is i'm not as concerned about the interval... I could use a little practice anyway... I'll be watching this thread!
GIS kev the xr400 CDI bolts straight on and gives 2 more advance from idle about the same all in advance but revs to 9500 or so where the stocker revs to 8300. In the USA you have to get the same box as the 96 model as it's got the full 2 degrees at idle.
Cool on the not losing oil in 700 miles, I think I should be good ( because it is a Honda) just thinking out of the box. Thanks again for your feed back, I may look into this to see if they even make one. keep it on one or two wheels
I just found one of these but now I'm having second thoughts (it hasn't arrived yet) Because I have to imagine the factory set it at 8300 for a reason and my machine shop frowns against it. He says if I'm bouncing off the rev limiter I need to gear it higher and that even at 8300 its already past its power band? Next he tries to scare me talking about the heavyness of the rotating assembly and that it doesn't need to rotate any faster or it will add more stress and something will give or wear faster...? HELP? what do ya'll think? I'd love to have the timing advance but I bought it because when I'm getting on it it seems to be pulling strong till it hits the rev-limiter? I'm glad someone brought this up! There is a fellow on ThumperTalk that has been running one with good results but he is supermotard as well was running a lighter flywheel for quicker revs! I think he's more for track and performance than XR durability? Any input is appreciated! XRK
I've been running one for 3 years with no problem.. bike is a little more peppy throughout the power band. one thing I notice with the new box.. I don't bounce off the rev limiter as much as I'm going throught the gears.. what's nice it that you feel the power flatten out and makes you want to shift to the next gear anyway.. with the stock box the revs and power would climb and then stiffle as it hit the limiter. it was annoying. I wouldn't be afraid of the cdi box
Any advice when looking for a good secondhand XR? There seems to be a few around in the UK from 2000-2004 with somewhere between 4000-8000 miles on them. What should i look for that may cost a packet to put right if its a donkey. Being a veteran dirt rider aware of he usual bashed radiators, frames, wheel bearings, wheels and disk rotors but not so sure of the BRP engine/clutch/gearbox. Any help would be appreciated.....oh yeah is there only one XR650R or are there variants of this great machine. thks
just check the obvious and for subframe cracks at the top of the back bone and sides, right footpeg bolts, these bikes are really bullet proof. but hopefully the previous owner change oil and filters regularly. that's the only thing with used bikes is hard to tell is the PO's maintance habits..
+1 in the US all 2000-2007 are the same bike and I believe in the UK the motor and such are the same but ya'll have some other options we don't like street legal and such and I don't know about when those options are available. Physical wear is about all you can check unless the PO will let you tear into it? We can give you a list of things which these bikes are known to need so you can feel out the PO, I'll start and others chime in; :huh ...has the fork oil ever been changed? ...stearing stem greased? ...(if its 2000 or 2001) clutch bushing been replaced? ...valve adjustment intervals, if ever? Once you get it home We can fill your head with minor things to check into... Keep us posted on what you found!
Hi hi kenaroo... Sorry for the very little knowledge....seriously the XR400CDI onto XR650R would be good improvements?if so,i am really gonna try it out too...actually,i am quite happy enuff with the way it is...but,if for better performance,and wont affect durability of the bike,i would love to...
For your information...AS Kenaroo stated its the 96-97 XR400...but I found that most Ebay sellers don't list or know what year it came from if its a used parts dealer. BUT...if it has Number: 070000-2650 -its the earlier 96-97 model! (the one you want BUT if it has the Number 070000-2740 its the Later model which doesn't have the same timing advance and I believe its a lower rev-limiter. It will help you narrow down the XR400 CDI's available! Correct? Kenaroo? XRRK
I don't have the part #s but that should be the one.. in addition, ebay sellers label this as the xr650r high performance cdi box as well. A.J. you have enough experience riding your XR650R.. you will be pleased with the upgrade... the best way I can explain it to a seasoned XR owners is that it cleans up and broadens the power on the bikes.. doesn't change the feel so much as it just doesn't cut off on the top of the revs. you notice most when your in race mode or getting to max speed.
I got a guy wanting me to make an offer on a TM41. Will this work on a BRP, and if so what should I bid? This is used by the way.
