I recently purchased a Harmonizer so that I could balance the throttle bodies on my 2011 1200GS. When it was time to do the deed for the first time, everything went very smoothly and I followed the instructions per JVB's camhead DVD (minus the fans...my temp did go up to six bars whereas its normally a very static four...but no big deal as it was still in the acceptable range). I did not, however, disconnect the stepper motors... Is there any reason I should have done this beforehand? Also, it seemed to me that making adjustments to the cable once the set screw is loose is most easily done by hand, as the wrench wants to vibrate all over the place. Is this what the rest of you have found too? Finally, once you have achieved balance at 3500 RPM, are you truly finished? Also, I was thinking next time it might be easier to mark the throttle adjustment screw with a marker so I can tighten the set screw and visually see that my positioning hasn't been compromised in the process. Anyone have any other pearls/suggestions? Thanks all!!
I dont have any suggestions on it yet as I am about to do a throttle sync as soon as I get the tool. Still not sure which one to buy though...twin max, carb tune etc.. Any suggestions about that?
I just noticed that this thread has 148 views and only one other post. (until this one) Hopefully JVB will be along shortly to clue you in because what I'd tell you would just make your head hurt. And as for which differential synch tool is 'best' the Harmonizer gets my vote and by a HUGE margin. JJ
I've used the twinmax and the harmoniser. The harmoniser is by far the most accurate and easy to use. I'm glad I bought it last summer.
Yes, that's pretty much it. You will note that at idle speed, the Harmonizer would show that they are not balanced. But I understand that the allowable variance is +/- 25mmHg. Throttle adjustment screw? Maybe you meant the cable adjuster screw. The adjustments can be so minute that marking the screw position would be useless. In time, cables stretch that's why periodic checking of cable pull balance is required.
Thats funny. Seems like harmonizer is more popular choice, who sells these things at a descent price?
Thanks for getting the responses flowing!! This link actually raises another question.. On the video it shows the balance being adjusted with a screwdriver via a screw on the TB. On my 2011 camhead I had to use two wrenches and the throttle cable which was much more of a pain in the ass. Why the difference? Also, feel free to make my head hurt with your response dude (if it's info that isn't contained in your link). I'm a sponge when it comes to R1200GS info...I may not absorb it, but i'd rather have it out there and not understand all of it than have a look like this ----> :huh and be *completely* ignorant!
When the 1200's came out BMW changed the entire fuel injection computer. The screwdriver is used on the 11xx series of motronic EFI computers because they have a Big Brass Air Screw that manually adjusts the idle air bypass circuit (idle speed circuit) for each throttle body. For more on this look in the Hall of Wisdom for the document TBSD. The 1200's use a computer controlled stepper motor to adjust the idle air bypass, so there is no manual adjustment. In order to 'properly' adjust the throttle bodies, both stepper motors should be 'parked' so that they are in a fixed equal air delivery position and THEN using the Harmonizer (or manometer of your choice) adjust the throttle cables while the throttle is in an open position to balance the reading shown by the manometer. This parking of the steppers can be accomplished by using either a GS-911 tool, the BMW factory computer diagnostic tool, or other electronic tools designed for this purpose. It should be noted that simply unplugging the steppers is NOT the same as 'parking' them and further should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing. I say this because while the chances are slim it is possible to 'brick' the EFI computer if you unplug or plug the steppers into the wiring harness at the wrong time. This would be bad (read $$$$). And the synch job can't be done properly UNLESS both steppers are properly parked. JJ ps does your head hurt now?
Awesome. Just awesome answer. Thank you. Most of it makes sense...at least enough of it to plan on how to proceed with the harmonizer from here on out. ...and yes, my head now feels like I've stared at your avatar for two straight hours.
I have the GS911 and the Harmonizer but have yet to do the deed. Waiting for the snow to melt at my place so I can ride the bike and warm it up properly as I understand is optimal. My question is if I "Park" the Steppers with the 911 do I need to put them back into "Drive" after the TB Synch or is it just synch and go?
The GS-911 has a 'routine' that parks them then when you're done it re-engages the steppers to function properly again. I would assume the BMW factory diagnostic computer does the same. I'm not familiar with any other systems but would assume they function in a similar fashion as well. So no the EFI computer doesn't automatically re-engage the steppers all on its own, at least during these diagnostic functions. JJ
Thanks JJ. Kinda what I figured. Haven't really used the 911 too much yet. Just cleared a fault code and re-set my service interval for another year (glad to not have to rely on the stealer for that anymore!)
I have a '11 r1200gs and recently purchased a gs911 and a harmonizer. My question is that it seems you pick an rpm range to zero ie my understanding is 3500 is recommended. My issue that unlike the utube video I saw my balance is not linear, another words I would think that once you had it "balanced" that it would remain the same or at least be linear as the rpm incresed. This does not seem to be the case. can someone explain this. The bike is low mileage and runs well, at least untill I started this.
BMW does not recommend 3500. They recommend 1400-1800 RPM, i.e. just as the butterfly begins to move, for adjusting the throttle cables. Adjusting at 3500 can hide big differences since a minor throttle offset there is a very small percentage of the total opening.
So right you are, when I did it based on the service manual I got it spot on in that range. My problem now is I am out of spec at idle. How do you tell if there is slack in the cables? The throttle has slack, I suspect this is not the same. And the $64,000 what's the best way to set the slack?
