I have been eyeing this from Motorworks (£ 396) for a little while as I've had to replace the original bearings twice and have only 87000 mls on the bike. At the moment I have a little play on the rear UJ and am not using the bike as the first time the bearings went they took out the shaft drive and the shaft casing in no time before I realised... (very expensive!) and I learnt the lesson. Admittedly, the second set got worn after only about 15000 mls but also a year of bike work on very rough african terrain. Obviously, the prospect of re-greasing every 5000 mls (or is it km?) is not appealing so i am also considering a rebuilt original one (at £240 from Motorworks) . Question: Does anybody know if 1 - play in the rear bevel could lead to premature wear/damage on the UJ bearings (I assume it will create some knocking..) 2 - out of phase segments of the shaft due to the rubber being strained with time has the same effect of causing premature wear in the bearings ...if so, I guess I'll go for the rebuildable one as an original might again only last me a short time since the rubber is not usually replaced I think (??) thanks, g
I installed a shaft from Ted Porter http://www.beemershop.com/catalog/p...d=663&osCsid=631db36220684f110852eb087aa94fdd so far so good.........
My '92 R100GSPD is down for a frame-up overhaul at the moment. Converting the swingarm and final drive to 1150GS equipment is part of the planned modifications. Just sourced an 1150 driveshaft over the weekend, so the only part still missing is an adapter to fit the oilhead driveshaft to the airhead transmission output flange. Well, that and fabricating a suitable rear shock mounting point... HPN sells an adapter but it's quite expensive. I might try fabricating my own using parts from an old driveshaft and an 1150 oilhead transmission output shaft. Or find someone who can machine a suitably splined stub shaft. I suspect Bruno would be able to handle that machining chore.
It's been 2 years - how's it doing/holding up? Are they still available? (the BMWBoxersupplies link shows it as NA (or at least disapeared from their site at this time).
Glad to see someone else found the same thing missing on the site. I was just wondering if it was just me. I figure I'm on borrowed time in that I've got nearly 130,000 miles on the original........yes the original drive line. Match that....huh....huh! Anybody......Anybody!
I ll never have piece of mind now in addition to my non clip trans. Which runs fine I can worry whether my u joints r substandard. My replacement running 12 miles aok. Time for a 1150
I had a few broken ones.(all bearing failure) Those were all from the first series which had a smaller bearing size than the stock BMW shaft. Don't wait to long with the maintenance. When a bearing is broken or worn the outside of the bearing will start to spin in the shaft it self. Than its loose in the shaft and will wear the shaft even faster. I had to replace a shaft because of this...
Original shaft went 252k kms in my '92 GSPD. <a href="http://s458.photobucket.com/albums/qq308/DaveDyno/?action=view¤t=Lornce1024x768.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/D/DaveDyno_Lornce1024x768.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
On the 2, I trashed, @ 20,000 and 64,000 miles . That's what they look like about 150-200 miles after you first sence somethings not right . The cups have cracked, rollers have broken . In one of mine 175 miles, 3 rollers were spit out of the blown end of the cup . The wear is the reality of the way they fail, and quickly . They really look ugly when pushed beyond a few hundred miles . That in my and friends expierences .
Mine came from The Boxertoko in the Netherlands. They were the first ones to be re-build with the new type bearings. Could be that the website is not up to date yet. http://www.bmwboxersupplies.com/kruiskoppeling-cardan-p-276.html
19mmX48mm???? Or I should say same size as the OEMs R100GS which btw is same size as every BMW driveshaft all the way to now. If that size looks like they are also available from other suppliers. You guys can check the Elbe 106 series, the "later" GS guys are using them for DIY rebuilds. Untested yet the DIY but we are digging up the info right now for someone in England looking at rebuilding a K driveshaft.
I'm talking about the shaft thats on your picture. They didn't have bigger u-joints than the original shafts. They had smaller ones. The new version has bigger size u-joints. The outside diam of the old and new bearings didn't change the inside did. The first series of those shafts had a problem with the size. They would not go through the swing arm because they were just to thick. A few spins af an angle grinder can fix that I didn't measure the size of the u-joint bearings my self but this info came from Mat from the boxertoko. Now they should have the same size as the original bmw shaft.
These new shafts are available in Australia too http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823543
So this thread has prompted me to have a look. Way overdue, since it's been 26,000 km so far on the re-buildable shaft. Prutser had warned me to check it at 10,000 km, and sure enough there's play in the universal joints. Question: is a certain amount of play acceptable? Because worryingly, the new spares we've carried have play also, and the bearing caps don't feel smooth. Have I ruined the rebuild kit by carrying it over rough roads for the last few months?
The shafts that I had re-build were replaced with new ones. I didn't ask why yet. But I had one shaft before these that was worn where the joint bearings go in. That was were the play was, not in the bearings them self.
