Nine Days through the Alps

It’s raining again as we pack up and leave the Wilder Mann. I find a Golf plastered with the worst of America’s VW scene offerings – impolite stickers. I want to scrape the rear window, but there are passes to ride…. We head back to the same Shell station and this adds 293.1kms, for a total of 1509.2km traveled. Retracing our steps to Landeck, this time we head north and pick up the 171 through Imst. We turn off onto the 186 to Öztal and then onto the L237, the route over the Kühtaisattel.



The ascent does not disappoint at all. Küh is German for cow. There are… more cows. When we arrive at the top, the sun peeks through for a few precious moments. Clearly a ski resort only town, Kühtai is mostly closed. We are able to get stickers and postcards, but find nowhere to warm up or grab a hot tea. On the way down, we spy a longhorn, watching us patiently. The descent along the L13 includes a 1.2km stretch of 16% grade, the steepest we have seen in Austria.











We connect to the 171 with the L11. From the 171, we pick up the 189 and cross the Holzleitensattel. Then, onto the 179, steadily proceeding northwest. Traffic increases, but not significantly at first.

The Fernpass nearly does us in. Packed with holiday and commercial traffic, it is slow and miserable. The rain is increasing steadily and we are getting very wet. My experience with GoreTex leads to a few tricks that keep me somewhat drier than my partner, but either way, we stop at top of the Fernpass to warm up and eat up.



After a bit of rest, we soldier on through the heavy rain. I leave about fifteen minutes before my partner as I am starting to get stiff and want to avoid a repeat of Stelvio. The avalanche galleries in Lermoos offer some respite, and on exiting, even a bit of sun. I pick up the 198 in Reutte and the 199 in Weißenbach. There are no markers for the Engpass, and the Gaichtpass has only a sign for the nearby bar. I do find one of the many warning signs to remind riders to slow down – this one says “give your guardian angel a chance”. The 199 becomes the B308 in Germany and leads to Oberjoch. At Oberjoch, the pass is drawfed by the ski town nearby. After a mixup sending me up the B310 and A7 to Kempten, we meet as planned in Sonthofen and find refuge at the Gasthof zum Löwen.

We fish the bikes out of the carport they are in, but dawdle in Sontfhofen to shop. We’ve found a trachtenmode shop and it opens at 0930. As we are in the heart of Tirol and close to Bayern, it seems we should be able to get some deals. I score with some short black ladies’ Lederhosen with edelweiss embroidery and a pink dirndle. My riding partner picks up a new leather wallet. I have my goods shipped and we head out.





First stop is fuel. This adds 289.8kms for a total of 1799.0. Much to our dismay, a valve stem on my riding partner’s bike disintegrates as she checks her tyre pressure. Quite a bit of phone calling ensues, along with a wait. In the absence of rain, this is not so bad. Eventually, it’s Euromasters to the rescue. They pick up the bike with their TireTruck – with a full wheel shop inside – and we head over to the workshop where it is a bit easier to work on bike tyres. The tech and I banter about the superiority of shaft drive while he works. He has a new stem in and the wheel balanced very quickly, and at 1300 we are finally on the road.



We head north on the B19 and join the A7 north to points Stuttgart. It’s a day of a lot of distance, and not much real excitement. We’ve finished the passes in unexpectedly short time, completing all of our “long” loops and extensions aside from the closed Faschinajoch and the inaccessible-due-to-said-closure Hochtannenberg Pass. Having previously discussed the possibility of some Eifel riding, we head north and west, picking up the A8 east,the A5 north, and the A61 north. The A61 is the backbone of the Rheinland and is the scenic alternative to the east A3 route. We stop for fuel at Dannstadt, tacking 347.8kms on, for a total of 2146,8kms so far.

Exiting the A61 at 43, we take the L215 and L214 to the B327, which we follow while looking for a place to stay. We land in Ehr, slightly south of Boppard, at the Landgasthaus Alter Post. We are directed to the guest house across the street with the instructions that it can be used as a double room or two singles as we see fit, all for 35€ per person. It’s lovely, and we are very happy with the quiet. The bikes are stowed in a private parking area near a large barn, and we unpack. Dinner in the main house is very pleasant with a nice wine and spirits selection. We recommend Alter Post if you are travelling and want to get off the main road. You won’t be disappointed.

Yes, I will post a pic soon of the collection. Still trying to decide how to mount them. I want to do a vinyl of the route for the Varios, may put the stickers at the pass locations, not sure.

I am editing the back side of Stelvio video to make it one. I have no idea what I am doing. lol. I also seem to be failing at embed, so I have also given a link.

Here are the decorated cows.

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We leave the Alter Posthof after a solid breakfast and head north on the B327 to pick up the A61 at exit 41. Yesterday’s transit stage has worn us out a bit, but we are looking forward to some fun in the Eifel, the driving and riding playground of Germany’s Rheinland-Pfalz, and home to the famous Nürburgring. I’ve planned a 75km loop north of there that I’ve stolen from the Eifeldiplom Classic route – the upper section of the popular day tour.

We detour from the straight route to the start of the loop on the to grab some extra curves, exiting on the B412 and riding to Kempenich where we pick up the L83 and L85. A favorite farm road of mine is now closed to traffic, and we have to continue north to Bad Neuenahr on L84. We see many wine festivals and pilgrimages on the way, but are focused on the home stretch, so no stopping for pictures. It’s the Eifel, we’ve seen it a hundred times before anyway. We backtrack from Bad Neuenahr on the B257, follwing signs for the Nürburgring until we get to Dümpelfeld. We turn onto the L73 and follow it to our destination, the Haus Waldfrieden, a popular biker stop with a large parking area, hot tea, and good food. After a quick snack, we head back out. Photos from prior visits.





The loop begins on the L73 and picks up the L74. That is, the real L74. I identify a bug in my Garmin nüvi – it wants to cut the route short by cutting subloops off. We backtrack and get going in the right direction. The ride cards would have been easier here, but I do not have them along. We turn off on the K11, following it to the K13, and turing north on the L165. Turning off on the K55, we pick up the L165 again in Esch, where we tank up – I remembered a fuel station, but expected it earlier. We add 267.2kms to the clock, for a total of 24. . A short distance on Römerstrasse lands us on the K50 which turns into the K25. A right turn puts us back onto the L73. In Schuld, we turn onto the K16 to begin the third and final subloop.

The final stretch includes several Kehren descending into Fuchshofen on the K17. We take the L73 back to Haus Waldfrieden and relax with lunch prior to heading home.

Going home is getting to the Autobahn: we retrace our steps on the L73 and B257 to the A61 north, A1 north, A57 north, and A46 east. This brings us into the city of Düsseldorf, where we hit the Rheintunnel and then pick up the B8 back to the house. The final count on the odometer is 159,7km, for a total of 2573,7km. Somehow, the trip odometer readings and the main odometer readings are off on both bikes, we assume some BMW magic is at work here. The final main odometer talley is 2599km on my bike. We strip and clean the bikes in the drive, and take a look at the stickers collected. After that, it is time to eat dinner and sleep, work calls in the morning.

Adventure complete. At least, this time around.

1. Sudelfeldstraße/Tatzelwurm
2. Pass Thurn
3. Grossglocknerhochalpenstraße - Fuscher Törl
4. Grossglocknerhochalpenstraße - Hochtor
5. Kreuzbergpass
6. Passo San Antonio
7. Passo Tre Croci
8. Passo di Falzarego
9. Passo Fedaia
10. Passo Sella
11. Grödner Joch (Passo de Gardena)
12. Passo Campolongo
13. Passo Pordoi
14. Passo Sella (again!)
15. Mendelpass
16. Gampenjoch
17. Ofenpass (Passo del Fuorn)
18. Flüela Pass
19. Julierpass
20. Berninapass
21. Forcola de Livigno
22. Passo D'Eira
23. Passo di Foscagno
24. Stilfserjoch (Passo dello Stelvio)
25. Umbrail Pass
26. Reschenpass
27. Silvarettahochalpenstraße Bielerhöhe
28. Brandnertal
29. Flexenpass
30. Arlberg Pass
31. Kühtai Sattel
32. Holzleitensattel
33. Fernpass
34. Engpass
35. Gaichtjoch
36. Oberjoch

FWIW, I couldn't stay away, I went back for laps on thursday and sunday!

1. Would do again. Over and over and over.

In the words of the guys from Grand Rapids &#8220;Get out! Go outside! Do something!&#8221; Check, check, and check. The goals of the trip were achieved and fun and adventure were had. This, as Gatsby says, is living! With hope, more adventure will ensue, even if it means renting bikes on one continent or another.

2. Pre-trip planning paid off huge.

We began serious planning four weeks out, prior to that, it was just &#8220;hey, let&#8217;s ride some passes&#8221; over coffee/tea/ice cream. We used two guidebooks and a found map of the Alps with passes marked. 100 Alpenpässe mit dem Motorrad and Pässe XXL. We are searching for a copy of the map, it was excellent, but now nearly destroyed. While the two books often differed in observations and ratings of the various passes, we were able to get a general idea of what to expect. We began by assembling the list of interesting passes and then plotting them on the map. From this, we assembled a route that would touch them with minimal transit time. I used both Google Maps and BaseCamp to visualize the routes, settling on BaseCamp as planning proceeded. Prior to departure, an overview map was created using GPSvisualizer.com.

The general idea for the trip was to focus exclusively on ascents and descents while minimizing transits. This is how the AutoZug got slotted in &#8211; it shaved an entire day of transit from the trip. We spent roughly ten hours discussing and plotting the route on the map (four significant revisions) and I put another ten+ hours into BaseCamp. There were two significant versions of the .gpx fileset prior to departure. Two changes to the fileset were made underway, most noteably the transit of Julier in place of Albuela. The Landeck loop was not set in the proper direction as loaded and needed to be reversed in the unit. The final version of the route as ridden is available by email request. Too late, we discovered that Garmin speaks more characters than TomTom, which would not load files with non-base-ASCII characters in the names (umlauts!). Once the umlauts were removed (after the trip), the files loaded without problem. How American.

We established through internet and social contacts that 200 to 300kms per day was realistic, this assisted with route planning and expectations. We were in this range or exceeding it all days, at the expense of photos on the higher mileage days (end of trip). The non-pass (effectively transit) stages were not as well documented as the pass stages.

We checked with assorted sources to look into hotels and found that we could expect to find places without stress along the route. This proved to be quite true, and with the exception of Switzerland, we found the prices quite acceptable. We estimated 100&#8364; per day for all expenses and this was sufficient without having to worry about money. In retrospect, we would stay at more pass hotels, as this almost guarantees a traffic-free trip up at the end of the day and a traffic-free trip down in the morning. Travelling without fixed hotel plans opened up many options for distance planning and allowed us to flow with the ride each day. This is a very good thing.

3. Should include human aspects in the pre-trip planning.

Pair an introvert with an extrovert and eventually there will be friction. We mediated this by choosing single rooms when available. We were able to handle it in stride for the most part, but would recommend that people have this discussion up front. It can save some stress on the road.

4. Gear planning is critical.

Considerable back and forth about leather versus textile occupied the three weeks prior to the trip. Textile won out and happily so. Washable underlayers were the winners. Socks need to be upgraded. You can not unpack and repack enough times. All Dainese boots leak eventually. The Vario boxes from BMW are much tougher than people make them out to be. They don&#8217;t break, they collapse, which means a few clicks and they are back to normal.

5. The bike was awesome.

Whatever worries I had about the bike are not there any more. What a super performer, even with the engine having a whopping 600kms on it prior to going out. I could have packed fewer tools, but was quite concerned about issues. NONE. Not a one. Big thumpers are in their element on steep descents. The compression braking is formidable. I could run whole descents in second gear and need no brakes. Amazing. The single item is a possibly worn-through chain guard, which is being supplemented by a piece of plastic binder right now. If the noise comes back, I&#8217;ll know what to replace. No surprise as I was running slack on top due to the engine braking.

6. Postbusses

I would be remiss in not mentioning the Postbusses. In most of Austria and some of Italy, the public transit is run by the post office. They have to deliver the mail anyway, so why not deliver a few people while they are at it? To a one, these are some of the most professional, courteous, and skilled large vehicle operators I have ever encountered. Where tourist busses were clogging traffic and taking up space, the Postbus drivers were following the road and holding impressive lines. Riders should take note that there is nothing to fear from a Postbus. Everything else? Be afraid. Be very afraid.

Thank you for the comments, all!

And, final update...

GPS files as promised

Alps as ridden full route

Fully planned route

Thanks again for the positive comments!

I designed some tshirts for us... 48 on the front, 39 on the back.