I think Honda switched to the XR650l shock for the XR600 in the mid 90's. Don't know which year. I just thought of a way to find when Honda changed to the larger body. Go to cheapcycleparts and start checking the shock body part #. When you come to a year that has a new # then you have found the change.
Hi everyone, So I pulled the front sprocket off my 89 XR600 to check the sprocket type, number of teeth and see if there is any wear on the splines of the countershaft. Turns out it's a 14 tooth JT sprocket. I know about the hardened sprockets destroying the splines by the counter shaft actually looked very good, almost no noticeable wear. Anyway, I went to re-install it and for the life of me I couldn't remember which way to install it: flat side out, or lumpy and written side out? Jumped on the net but seems there are lots of different answers, which made me quite confused. Note that this is an 89, so has the 6 thick splines if that changes anything? As it was, the flat side was out but I thought that wouldn't the lumpy written side be out normally so you can read the info (number of teeth, brand, etc)? Thanks, John
I've been rebuilding my XR, and had the same question, mounted it both ways and for me the sprocket sat best with the lumpy side OUT it aligned good with the nylon chainslider and with my fierce eye of precision It did too with the rear sprocket..
the bottom mounting bracket is different also from the XRL to XR. Don't remember which now, but I think the right shock in that pic is from the "new" xr600r. The one on the left is from the dual carb???
Allright, as I have posted before, I've bought a TM40. What's the jetting I should start with considering a have a 100mm piston . Riding from 0 to 2000m from sea
Thanks, I took your suggestions and did it that way, although it means that there is a gap between the locking mechanism and the sprocket (where the bolts go through). Doesn't seem like it would come off or anything (thanks Loctite) but does seem odd. Also, I noticed there was some forward and back play on the sprocket, as in I could move it about 2mm in and out on the counter shaft. Didn't really worry me but I thought I'd check this up, just in case. Now, I wanted to properly look at my front pads so took them out and they are pretty worn, probably will replace them while I'm here. But more importantly, I had a look at the brake pistons, and the tops seem really chipped and cracked. Plus they seem to have an asbestos-type material in the centre of them)? Could anyone tell me if a) these are still good or stuffed and b) why they don't look like other photos I've seen of XR6 brake pistons? Cheers, John
john thats nothing! Ill show your crumbled piston tops that work great! the pistons are hollow made of a special plastic, they have metal caps that are removable...thats the part that contacts the brake pads...you can take them off, clean them so they are nice and flat and then glue them back on which is what I did.... to clean the pistons you can buff them with some polishing compound, but I would NOT do that unless you want to replace the seals inside the caliper. cheers
here ya go these brakes kick ass btw as the measure of a good brake is clean fluid and new seals...there are 4 seals, inner seals and outer double lip seals to protect against moisture... lastly the pistons expand over time as they get dirty...so polishing them makes them smooth as BUTTA cheers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XR600-XR600...ke:Honda|Model:XR&hash=item2579ec5e92&vxp=mtr saw this on ebay, he doesn't send to EU/Netherlands so maybe one of you guys would want it??
found one! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrocks-...ke:Honda|Model:XR&hash=item2579d38dc0&vxp=mtr For anyone who wants it..
hese from TT...good guy.... dont know if the actual muffler will work for oeam stainless headers for 88-90 bikes...those headers are aftermarket forget the name...
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah your killing me I know of a lot of people, or read about a lot of people who had issues with these carbs on their xrs...I think they just never took the time to tune them they theoretically are missing a circuit, which in my eyes makes tuning easier! man wonder what it goes for STEVE buy it will ya?
Here's one : http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855807 Easy to adapt to an XR or not ? Cheers, Stu
looks a bit different to me...wonder what size the first one on ebay is? 3113 model vs this 38? anywho finally got my mikuni tm38 to start great, the choke even works...maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan am I stoked the drop of the pilot size worked, and the new xrl boot....so stoked there is not even the slightest hint of kickback! see guys there is a reason I wanted a non autodecomp cam...all in the "tuning" jajajajaja
so my moose skiplate has a stripped bolt...the actual head, I hate torx... whats the best way to take it off, slot the head? Im getting some noisy creaks now and then and wanted to put more foam between it and the engine...also I wanted to flush my frame strainer... no can do till I get some advice! anybody???????????? thanks
Reverse cut drill bit, it usually catches and backs it out. If you dont have access to one then I would use a drill bit that's just a bit bigger than the threaded part of the bolt and pop the head off.
