Rookie wanna-be weldor starting to make some cool things!

Thanks for all the input, guys. I've been thinking about everything all day. After getting in from work, I do a little more...



3/4" nuts with heavy tacks on each flat. Now I can do an enclosed gussett here.



Zinc ground from the welded area of the channel. I decided to do a piece of channel with a gussett due to many telescopic gantry vids I've seen that show them a little wobbly. I also want this to unbolt, so I need something to gussett to. That's where the channel comes in. This should add some rigidity (when done) while remaining modular.

The "gussetts" in the earlier pic were just pieces of scrap I laid in place to get a visual for clearances.



The galvanized metal welds so-so, even ground to bare metal. I'm guessing this is due to the porosity holding some of the zinc still.

I'm not cutting anything apart this far along. I'll just have to pin from the inside and do better next time if there is a next time on another gantry.

I know that a channel connecting the lower legs at the very bottom would be strongest, but that also takes away almost 10 inches of overall reach on the height. I've seen several companies producing them the way I did, only with a lighter gusset than I have at the same height, so I think I will be alright at 1 ton. If I see extreme deflection, I can always add another plate in a similar fashion down lower, but I don't think it's needed for one ton. I am only basing this on what I've seen being manufactured by others that are rated at 2 tons, yet built lighter that what I have here.

I sincerely appreciate everyone's input. I thank you all.

I'm hoping to get much more knocked out tomorrow...

Thanks, you are over kind!

THIS is a weld. I need a lot more practice, and better equipment!

Jim

If by porosity you mean the blemished channel surface, that looks like a pretty good thickness of mill scale on the channel surface. Welding on mill scale causes spatter.


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I woke up this morning with a new idea for the bottom gussetts....

Instead of plating only one side like I have done (so one side can be open for come-along adjustments), and instead of running a straight piece of channel across the very bottom of the legs (which takes away 9" or so of headroom due to the post not going all the way to the floor), I can do an offset gusset that still connects the very bottom...

Offset the gussett down the same height of the wheels. That should only take about 2" away from the total reach (the thickness of the channel) while still keeping the full strength of a bottom gussett. Hmmm...... time to pay another visit to the scrapyard...

Currently in coffee-slamming mode and letting everyone get their beauty sleep before I fire up the grinders!

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More Keith Fenner stuff.

Check out the rotating fixture he built (at about 1:10). Why move around the piece when you can make the piece move instead!

Just don't copy his use of protective equipment for welding.:eek1

I'll have to watch that later tonight...

I know what you mean on safety. He scares the crap out of me when he's reaching in with his bare hands while running the lathe.

I saw him shaping a short parting bit on the pedestal grinder also with his bare hands, and in his next video, he was wearing a band-aid where he knocked the bark off his finger.

Man is awesome to watch, though. He has me pining away for a mid-sized Clausing now.

Loads o'piccys on this coffee break...



3/16" plate...



...chop-chop...



...zap-zap...



Ever wonder why I have diagonal cutters in most pics?



ream-ream...



This was the buildup from nasty galvanized welding. Now the gas can flow.



See that little booger ball on the end?



Trim it off with the same pliers. The clean wire will help with the next arc instead of it skipping.



Robot shoes fully welded. Take me to your leader.



Bolt clears gussett perfectly.



Big difference between clean (vertical) and galv. (horiz.) metals. Travel speeds and all settings identical.



More chop-chop...



More eyeballin'...



I-beam center, web, and flanges laid out. 1/2" hardware laid out for drill centers...



Drill-drill...



...zap-zap...



Coffee break over. Get back to the robot shoes, slacker!

The member we're calling gusset is is a tie, meaning it's always under tension. Being under tension, it doesn't need to be much. A cable and turnbuckle would do for example.

If a full square tube between the wheels is the way you're going, you can always put a sleeve in the middle of it to allow the main post to pass thru and drop all the way to the floor. Important note, the nearer that cross tie is to the ground, the less of a ramp-to-floor angle the gantry will be able to traverse. You know, like where the ramp of the driveway meets the garage floor.

Regarding clearance for the come-along, I'm thinking the come-along doesn't necessarily need to be hooked to the bottom of the post to be able to lift it. Any one of the holes in the post can be a lift point. Use a hoist ring or a d-ring tie down under a bolt head.


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You might find this interesting: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2789428#post2789428

Jim

Which part? It took me to page 14...

In order to pull the beam to maximum height in the sleeve, the come-along will absolutely have to attach to the very bottom of the main post. The notch in the post sleeve allows a little extra up travel for pins that may not align perfectly.

Anything higher than that attached to the post will not clear the bottom of the post sleeve. Ties on the same side of the come-along will not allow the come-along idea to work without some sort of interference..

Done for the day...



Channel centered and clamped to 6" I-beam.



1/2" bolts used as setscrews.



Setscrews (of random length) fine-tuned to make the plate the angle I want, then clamped in place.



Zinc ground to bare metal. Plate tacked in place to remove second set of clamps.



Joint fully welded. 1st set of clamps removed, and bracket supported by itself. I think this will work.



Yep. I like this.



I chose this configuration for several reasons: adaptable to a larger I-beam if I decide on upgrading to a 2 ton span and hoist, and "in theory", the gantry is now width adjustable for heavier loads.





Once I figured out the pattern, the second one almost built itself. I'm very happy with this. It almost makes up for having the holes 90 degrees out-of-whack...almost.

It's been a good day in the Rookie Garage. I think it's officially beer:30.

After some fine-tuning, these bad boys will be ready for paint.

<BR>You might need to take a break and step back for a bit. This is friendly commentary and you might be on your way to a brain lapse, or fart as you call it.

The hoist ring would be held in place with a bolt, through one of the holes already drilled in the post, not permanently welded. A removable hoist ring allows clearance for the various accoutrements, and lets the cross tie pass on both sides of the post.

Just don't put that square tube cross tie you were talking about too close to the ground. If so the gantry will high-center over any sort of rise.


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Nice work!

If you turn the clamp around the other way on the I-beam, the trolley will have more travel.


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:huh What part of what I said was "unfriendly"? Shrugs...

I saw him reaching in along side the chuck in motion with a long sleeve shirt on. I was waiting for it to grab it and break his arm.

And can you please get a proper pair of Mig pliers!?

Show me where to get a good, well made pair, and I'll buy them! All the ones I have seen are a bit on the cheesy side.

Until then, my 20 y.o. Kleins will have to do.

Scroll to the top of that page.

Jim

I hope that I don't offend, but you'll produce a better project with proper joint prep and pre-heat. (Beveling and gapping) You display a steady hand, but at times "low Heat."

I don't want to take away motivation, I wanna help.

@Kirkster,

How do you cut that steel plate so straight with the grinder? Anything special? I seem to always have a slight wobble in the cut or other mayhem. Usign good quality cutting discs and grinder of course.
I swapped to the reciprocating saw instead because of that, but it's a lot slower.