Awesome build thread! I'll be doing the same thing to my 2002 soon as well. A couple of recommendations from your original list: SeatConcepts for new foam and seat cover Leo Vince slip-On to replace the OEM Supertrapp (sounds great and half the weight) Real hand guards Re-build water pump & check cam roller bearings Check to see if main shaft bearing has been upgraded Mugara Jack hydraulic clutch kit SuperSprox rear sprocket and RK chain (if you do a lot of tight trails get a 15 counter sprocket) SealSavers (my seals would always get dirty and weep without) Rally Risers handlebar risers from Rally Connex Loctite every bolt you re-install... Re-build BST or better yet install FCR Cover inside of skid plate with foam tape, helps with noise a bit yada...yada..yada... Dam these bikes can get expensive...but fun!
replace seal 0760 1222270,located in lhs engine side cover,the seal get hard/worn and can cause internal leakage ,crankshaft doesnt get enough oil,would also replace choke/throttle cables/air filter,and check condition of air intake hoses/coolant hoses.
I'm in (hopefully) the home stretch of sorting out my 2002 Adventure which has been driving me nuts with lots of weird subtle problems; that plus lots of standing. Hopefully only major things left are sorting out fueling on the PHM40 carb I use, and replacing the gear lever seal that's oozing... and getting a new battery. If you're allergic to over-spending, maybe get your cables refabricated. I Couldn't get a throttle cable at a decent price in reasonable time - a co in my area (I live in Johannesburg) rebuilt the cable for about $25 instead of the $40+ the agents wanted. Def replace the air filter - cheap, and helps the breathing - almost certainly clogged/perishing if prev owner was not big on maintenance. Rebuilding the forks is not that hard - only trick is a skinny 22mm spanner to get into a narrow but - I bought a reg'lar one and had a machine shop grind it down. You can google for the service manual (WP4860MXMA2003-ktm-fork-manual is the one I use - seems to be right.) Even if you don't strip it completely, you can clean it, flush old fluid, refill. Check your steering head bearing is good. Def check routing of all wires and cables - make sure there's no chafing going on. If it's stood a lot, strip fuel pump and check diaphragm in good nick. They're brilliant bikes when they're going well.
Thanks all... I'll add all of the suggestions to the "to do list". There hasn't been much to update in the last little while. I had been away in Japan for a couple weeks and it took a week to recover from that. Now my priorities are to finish up a few home reno projects before all the guests arrive for the holidays. So work on the bike has slowed to a crawl... I have started sanding the tank and fairings. I made a few more Kijiji purchases: I picked up an uninstalled full Big Gun exhaust quiet core system. I know they're not the best, but the price was right, and the guy thew in a Hindle race pipe as well. I may end up modding the Hindle with a quite core and running that. But I'd like to test the Big Gun first. I also picked up a revalved and in excellent condition rear shock. Unfortunately it has a much to light for my fat ass spring installed, so I'll have to track down something more appropriate. The guy threw in an aluminum left foot peg holder from a 625 so I can now mount up a set of decent pegs... it was pretty chewed up though so I may need to have someone fill it in with some weld. I'll put up some pics of that stuff soon...
So, again progress is slow right now. Every time I turn around there is something else that demands my attention... I did start the sanding and prepping on my cowl and tank though. I drained the gas out tonight and pulled all of the fuel connections and the sensor. I think I should replace the shut off filters in the pics or maybe I'll just add an inline fuel filter between the tank and the carb if its a pain in the ass to get the other ones. (sorry, cell phone pics suck but you get the idea): I did some scouting for some paint and I think I'll just end up doing a rattle can job. I can get decent quality or at least good enough for a dirt bike. There is a VW candy/frost white at the local car parts store that looks like it will work, but I'll get the sanding done and primer on there before any decisions are made. That's it for now.
I thought it was a plate at first too, but its actually a molded in part of the tank. Not sure what its for or why its there, if someone knows please chime in, I'd love to know.
okay, the holidays are over the champagne has been drunk. Now its time to get back to business. I cleaned all the crap out of my garage and started back on the 640 today. I probably should have worked on something more important but it was warm here so I sanded, filled, sanded and painted. After lots of sanding, I cleaned the tank and mask with varsol. Usually I'd use denatured alcohol but, I had none around. Here are the filled and sanded parts being hung: Here they are primed (its kind of cloudy in the garage from the spray): I'll do some more sanding and painting tomorrow and post the results.
Isnt that a spot on the mould where the rallye has an extra petcock? Presume its so the back tanks can be drained into the main?? Another thing to do is change the thermostat, read of one instance where the owner thinks a faulty thermostat caused his head to overheat and crack, being the not so proud owner of a cracked head I wish I had been more vigilant on that incase it had a bearing on mine.
I thought that might be the case, may have to look at the parts fiche for the 660... Haven't heard that one yet but, I'll look into the thermostat, thanks! This is all getting to be a bit of a money pit, but I'm hoping to have a good bike that will be reliable and fun, so it should be worth it.
I'm a member of the cracked head club as well, but nothing to do with the thermostat. Brokenn exhaust roller bearing that then lodged UNDER the cam (the cam then proceeded to try and push it through the head) did mine. Luckily the local "head job" guy managed to weld it up. 10,000 kms and all good so far.
lots of work on the bike lately. I've got the mask and tank painted, and I'll let them sit a week or more to let the paint cure before I clear coat them. I'm pretty happy with the results, but I wouldn't use rattle cans again for white. It took way more paint then I thought it would and it was easy to accidentally sand through to the primer. I borrowed an air brush to spray the bottom light shroud black and fade it in. I re-sanded it twice because I didn't like the look. I was trying to get it more like the blend on the newer orange bikes but, I thought since I'll be putting a black graphic on the wind screen it would look better blended in a little lower. Since I'm waiting for all of the paint to cure, I moved on to the swing arm with the kit I bought to rebuild it. One side was rusted in pretty good, the hammer and socket method of extracting the races made things worse. Every time I hammered on them the collars would chip off and break, leaving very little material to bite onto when pushing them out. I had a bearing puller in my tool box which worked perfect for pushing everything out quickly, I'll use it to put the new bearings in too. I still have some cleaning to do on the swing arm and there's a few parts I waiting on so I moved on to the sub frame. I had a few comments that it should be reenforced, and since I'd like to eventually get some hard bags and to ride the bike like it was designed to be ridden, reinforcement was easy to do now and fairly cheap. I got a piece of 1/8" thick steel plate from work and made a quick template to cut out a shape with my cut off wheel. I think its a bit over kill, but I think it was a good idea. I stopped by a local shop on my way home from work and had them weld the plate into the frame. I wasn't super happy with the welds, but it seems pretty solid. They though I was crazy wanting a bead all the way around. I cleaned up the frame, sanded it and hit it with some primer and some black rust paint. It still needs another coat or two but, I'm pretty happy with the results. I'll let it sit for a week or so to cure then I'll start reassembling the tail. That's it for now, when I get more done I'll post it.
CSF; Did the welder work for a vineyard because it looks like he made "GRAPES"!! Other than that, I'm looking forward to the finished product! Cheers
Thanks, it feels good to make some tangible progress finally. It's fun ordering parts, but its way more fun to make something. "Grapes" - that's funny, I'll have to remember that one.
Couldnt find it quickly but I think it was clintz who posted up a short time age with his second mod of the subframe. 1st was similar to yours, second now reinforces most of the way down. Will also see if I can take a shot of mine on the weekend.
I finished painting the sub-frame tonight. Looking at the frame again I do see where an additional gusset might be a benefit. I think a piece of 1/8" flat bar cut to shape and welded in would be good and it would sort of match what the factory did on the left side. That all being said, I'm not sure its worth it right now to sand it back down cut the metal and have it welded into place... I don't really know if will block something that has to go back into that area. It will be easier to do it next winter when I rip everything apart again to do maintenance. I cleaned everything up and got the all bearings into the swing arm, now I'm waiting for the new chain guard and chain guide to arrive. I cleaned off the swing arm, Then I lightly polished everything up with a wire wheel. fresh new bearings all greased up with everything in place I zip tied everything so it stays together until I'm ready to install. My wife looked at my hands tonight and said "you need a manicure", I said "what are you talking about, I have a "MAN-icure". There's no amount of scrubbing that seems to get all the gunk off my hands, I can never seem to keep my gloves on. Anyway, that's it for tonight.