Ignition switch failure.

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by riceless, Jun 8, 2009.

  1. Yellow Pig

    Yellow Pig Allergic to asphalt! Supporter

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    I rememer reading of a way to start the engine without the key: it was something like jumping acc1 and the ignition+dash fuses.
    #21
  2. fmfpunk

    fmfpunk Hooligan in training

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    La Verne, CA
    Pretty sure. Seems like it does it more after you turn off a hot motor then restart, like after you've stopped to take a break.

    But it's much better than before i "fixed" it.
    #22
  3. AntWare

    AntWare Lost In Translation

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    16,483
    Here's an old thread where Osteo pulled and cleaned his. (LINK)

    The contacts are coated in dielectric grease.

    As the grease gets old it turns into a wax and prevents the contacts from doing their job.

    It also stops doing its job and allows the contacts to get slightly corroded.

    I'd still recommend applying new grease before reassembly.

    All you really need to do is have access to the lower half of the ignition module.

    The ignition is bolted to the top triple clamp by special bolts that the heads snap off at the correct torque to make them tamper proof.

    By removing the right side fairing and popping the black pressure release clips that separate the two halves of the ignition system, this could be done without drilling the ignition/top triple bolts out and/or removing the top half that contains the barrel.

    I've had this happen a few times, and each time the symptoms were different depending on which points were still making contact.

    This really should become part of routine maintenance, it can be fairly dangerous depending when and where you are when the ignition decides to cut out.
    #23
  4. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    I got to destroy a tab but the switch got closed back again. The lights would go off from time to time. Having installed xenon headlight, it would switch off to protect the system and stay off.
    A good idea is to punch the contacts from the back with a nail to make them protrude a bit more, sisnce they get worn.
    Cheers.
    #24
  5. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer Supporter

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    Somewhere on two wheels!!
    Just stripped mine tonight and it was a bit gunged up with sand, dirt and grease. I took it apart, cleaned it all out, stretched the springs a mm or so and put is all back together with dialectric grease. If it still plays up I'll punch the pins!

    I also taped the body this time with insulation tape to prevent the shit getting in in future, there are a lot of holes in the body which don't help. I guess KTM didn't test the ignition switches in the desert :dunno Not on Meoni's bike anyway :lol3

    Cheers,

    Pyn
    #25
  6. Airhead

    Airhead More human than human

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Fear and Loathing in Maine
    Here's a different question...I need to get into the top half of the ignition...or replace the thing entirely. I learned the hard way not to have another key attached to your ignition key...a few weekends ago we were riding in Ontario, having a great time (other than having my stock clutch slave die on the side of the road)...when we stop for gas and I find out my ignition key is bent over at a 90 degree angle. WTF? How did this happen? After a bit of sleuthing, I figured out that the case key had gotten jammed between the dash and the ignition key, bending the ignition key over and f'ing up the top of the ignition. Fortunately, I was able to bend the key back without breaking it, and the ignition lock still worked...

    But, now the little spring loaded cap that keeps dirt/water out of the lock mechanism itself is bent open, leaving the internals of the lock exposed to water, etc. I have an entire new ignition lock, but I would rather just replace that little spring loaded cap and keep the key to the ignition, gas caps, and seat the same.

    So, my question is, can I get the top part of the lock open, and replace just that little spring? And, if I can't, how hard is it going to be to remove the goddam security bolts in order to get the whole ignition module off?

    Thanks in advance!

    Jeff
    #26
  7. acupuncture4u

    acupuncture4u Freedom by knobbies

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    Denver, Colorado
    Another possible ignition switch issue. Did a big 400plus mile ride and the bike would cut out. At first thought it wasn't getting enough air but seemed so intermittent I felt it was electrical. While riding the bike would cut out like the kill switch went on or something. Would happen once, then nothing for 100 miles. Then after a fill up would cut out maybe 20 times. A few times killing the bike completely and the starter wouldn't turn over. Rattle the key in the ignition and would start up. Since that ride it hasn't done it once???

    Sound like the ignition switch?

    Edit!!!

    Take a look at this link if your fix here didn't work
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511144


    Dustin
    #27
  8. fmfpunk

    fmfpunk Hooligan in training

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  9. unkle_george

    unkle_george Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Bike would stall on right hand corners when the bars would wiggle the wires in the ignition switch just right and everything goes dark. Thanks to the original posters for the info.

    Egats, this type of failure should be covered under warranty.
    #29
  10. Toothster

    Toothster Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Stratford, UK
    Hey Guys, I posted this on another thread, but thought it worth reposting here as very much on topic.

    I thought I would share a problem I had, what I checked and what was eventually the solution.
    Similar to that already described I was riding along quite happily on road, started to have a mis-fire, after about 2 minutes the taco stopped working and after about another 2 minutes the bike stopped completely. No lights, no ignition, no starter. The only sign of life was what sounded like an electrical short under the front left side panel.
    Having trailered the bike home I started work.
    What sounded like the electrical short was in fact 2 of the relays clicking in and out very quickly.
    After a few minutes research on ADVrider I checked the following.
    Battery connections, ALL fuses, the 4 relays behind the headlight, main starter relay.
    All working fine.
    All visible connections checked out fine.
    Then removed ignition switch - a little grubby inside - cleaned and reassembled.
    Still no luck.
    As a last resort I thought I would reconnect everything, turn on the ignition and start wiggling wires.
    BINGO!! Everything fired back into life.
    And the problem turned out to be a broken wire inside the armoured section between the ignition switch and the point it connects to the main loom.

    Hopefully this will save someone the 3 or so hours it took me to find the problem.
    #30
  11. acupuncture4u

    acupuncture4u Freedom by knobbies

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    Wound up getting a new ignition assembly...
    #31
  12. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Oct 14, 2005
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    Colorado
    Me too, well, a used one from an inmate here. I really have yet to test the bike. After I replaced it the idle started hanging so I will dig into it a bit more.
    #32