My r90 restoration.

Did they come with any plastic tube preload spacers? Usually just experiment with the tubes starting long and gradually shortening them until you get the spring rate you're comfortable with.

If you'd like to pass those old stock springs along to someone who'd appreicate a smoother ride, let me know!

cheers,
Lornce

This issue kind of just worked itself out, honestly. I don't have issue with sag or terrible dive anymore. I do suggest making or buying spacers though, I do have them installed with my progressive springs.

I should probably add this to my thread as well. Still having some carb balance issues and not getting the full power out of the engine. The ignition is set slightly retarded because the carbs just won't stop acting up and idle way too high. I'm reaaaally debating buying a set of mikunis and just being done with it.

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Stick with the Bings until they're right, Blaine. Nothing going on there that can't be resolved with a bit of thoughtful effort.

Start a thread. Lots of opinions available to you on this site.

Resolve the issue with the Bings first! High idle is caused by air leaks - look for a loose intake spigot or tubes or damaged jet o-rings. Mostly what I've found are damaged o-rings.

After having gone through everything like you have it can be frustrating going through it again. But check those o-rings - they've tripped me up enough times that's where I go first when it runs rough.

Thanks for the tips. I've actually replaced all the o-rings twice now just because I thought the same thing. There's an airleak somewhere because one carb acts like it's sliiiightly on choke. Checked and double checked all the boots and made sure they all we're clamped and sealed but just can't seem to pin point the issue. I've replaced about 90% of the internals too including jets, atomizer etc.

have you checked the metal spigots where the carb boots attach to the heads? if those aren't tight you can get an air leak there.

Try the WD40 leak finder trick. spray until you notice an idle change so you can at least find the leak. The WD40 will block it long enough for the idle to change.

Starting fluid/ether works too and doesnt leave stuff as oily.

Ooo. That's one thing I can try this weekend.

Yea, I was just reading down, and was going to suggest the fluid/spray... I like using starting fluid, not only because it is cleaner, but if there IS a leak, it gets sucked in and makes a very noticeable difference in engine speed... revving up...

Try not only around the boots, but attention to the throttle "axle" where it goes into the throttle body. Remember you are looking for a vacuum leak, so pay attention to the vacuum side (between head and throttle plate).

O-rings are quite plausible, too: try a little squirt at the adjustment screw...

Good luck. Those Bings, for all the badmouthing they get, should make for a nice tick-over idle... keep at it! After all you've done, all the right things, just... keep doing it! Good stuff!

I just did a google site-search for ToasterTan, and you came up... that was an hour ago, I just re-read the whole thread. .... Gotta say, it was worth re-reading every bit of it... Kudos, mon!



Your carby issues: it may go back to the tank-liner problems: are you sure you are getting clean fuel? Full flow through the petcocks/filters/float valves?

And yes, do the air-leak test. I KNOW those Bings can be sweet, so getting into Mikunis isn't necessarily the solution...

The tanks actually been fully stripped and re-lined
That was a horrible process. By far the worst part of the build.

So I'm out cleaning the r90 today (cause I love her) and I decided to give the ol spray leak test a go. Pull out the carb cleaner (it was the only flammable non-greasy thing I had.) Spray, spray, spray..nothing. Get to the left carby boot (cylinder side) and spray, the idle immediately picks up. Brilliant! I readjust the clamps and carb angle and it cleans up the idle a good bit already. It's still leaking, granted, a lot less than before. What looks like a minty fresh boot may need replacing
Judging by how Fred had to heat his with a torch to get his carb on, I'd say mine are quite a bit looser than that 0_o so it may actually need replacing.
Once again, the brilliance of ADV members pulls though!

Nice

I love happy endings.

That's good news, hope it fixes the problem.


Mike

Well, time for a new starter
Mine's on its last leg and pulling way too much amperage of the smaller stock battery (odyssey.) It will barely, if even, turn over after a full night on the charger.

Also, I'm getting some smoke out of the left exhaust when the starter turns the motor...what would that be a sign of?

Exhaust smoke color...

White-Condensation or Moisture.

Blue-Oil.

Black-Unburned Fuel.


Mike

I recall it being white...being that I'm in Georgia, I'm ok with that. (humidity and it was morning)