Engine Oil Preferences

crashmaster · Jul 21, 2012

what car?? said: ↑

Thank you very much for the advice I greatly appreciate it.
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Flexibility is the key to a stress free trip. 99% of the time you will be able to find something that will work for you, you just cant be picky about oil, and especially tires.

If for some strange reason you have difficulty finding moto oil, diesel oil like Rotella will generally work as well. Mobil 1 will also work because like moto and diesel oil, it does not contain friction modifiers so its safe for the wet clutch. However, there are so many motos and so many moto shops everywhere in Latin America, finding a moto specific oil is generally easy. Some folks normally run nothing but Rotella or Mobil 1 and have no issues.

Have a great trip. Latin America on a moto is an amazing experience.

This little trick will save a lot of time and mess with your oil changes on the road:

Bgunn · Jul 21, 2012

crashmaster said: ↑

Have a great trip. Latin America on a moto is an amazing experience.

This little trick will save a lot of time and mess with your oil changes on the road:
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Especially the way you did your trip. Still can't get Colombia out of my mind...

Changed my oil at work the other day. I used the oil pump we use to suck the oil out of boat engines. Didn't get it all, but when I pulled the drain plug on the oil tank, there was a lot less to deal with.

charlie264 · Jul 22, 2012

ShadySmurf said: ↑

Molecules isn't the right word, and a bit silly, but he was right about not using car oil. Car oil has additives in it that are no good for our wet clutches. Stick with a motorcycle oil, or some diesel truck oils (Rotella T). As I said above, viscosity and JASO ratings.
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Ive run car oil with wet clutches, no issues.

killurtv · Jul 23, 2012

CJ DESIGNS LC8 OIL DRAIN HOSE KIT

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Item #: CJD-ODH-KIT

CJ DESIGNS LC8 OIL DRAIN HOSE KIT
Stop dreading that next oil change on your KTM Adventure. This kit bolts on after a modification to the tank bracket. Do this once and be ready for much faster and easier oil changes.

Now just drop the skid plate (no need to remove the fuel tank). Pull the sump plug and hose plug, and let drain. Swap and clean filters and re-install plugs.

The fittings for this kit are available in blue, black or orange but are proving to be hard to find on a consistent basis so some may be out of stock from time to time. We're working on getting a more consistent supply of parts to build this kit with. This kit uses braided stainless steel hose with a plastic cover so that it won't damage anything it rubs on.

Included is a paper template so you know how much to remove from the tank bracket. Remove 2 tank bolts, and 2 bracket mounting bolts. Install tank fitting, then hose. Fit template over corner of bracket and trace on RED line. Trim that area away and reinstall bracket. Zip tie up out of the way with included zip tie. THIS LITTLE BEAUTY WILL SAVE YOU HUGE AMOUNTS OF TIME ON ALL YOUR OIL CHANGES, I LOVE MINE!!!!

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ShadySmurf · Jul 23, 2012

charlie264 said: ↑

Ive run car oil with wet clutches, no issues.
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And others have and have had clogged jets. I don't care what people run, just answering questions and the reason for ratings. I'm sure you could get away with anything that lubricates and doesn't break down under heat. IMO, Rotella which is half the price of 1 quart of Motorex for 4 quarts works great, meets the proper specs, doesn't have car additives, and is available everywhere there is a Wal-Mart...which covers my area of riding very well. YMMV.

But everyone is going to have their own opinion on this.

what car?? · Jul 26, 2012

Crash,

Thanks for the information. Are you running a 990 or 950? I was curious about a high front fender kit as I plan on a lot of off tarmac riding. Notice you're running standard fender, any issues with mud collection? Every time I have traveled to Latin America I rented bikes, now time to ride my own and have the ability to go wherever I choose without time restrictions.

Another question:

I used to own a '02 Subaru and ran Valvoline fully synthetic oil and was changing oil at the 13,000-15,000 mile mark with no damage to the engine. I verified this by monthly compression and oil pressure checks. Why does it seem that does not apply, or at least seems like it, with motorcycles? If you run your bike to 6-8000 miles are you asking for serious issues? I'm sure there will be a reply about the dirt that gets in from running on dirt roads, but I ran many dirt roads in the Subaru without issue.

Thanks again for the information.

crofrog · Jul 26, 2012

what car?? said: ↑

Crash,

Thanks for the information. Are you running a 990 or 950? I was curious about a high front fender kit as I plan on a lot of off tarmac riding. Notice you're running standard fender, any issues with mud collection? Every time I have traveled to Latin America I rented bikes, now time to ride my own and have the ability to go wherever I choose without time restrictions.

Another question:

I used to own a '02 Subaru and ran Valvoline fully synthetic oil and was changing oil at the 13,000-15,000 mile mark with no damage to the engine. I verified this by monthly compression and oil pressure checks. Why does it seem that does not apply, or at least seems like it, with motorcycles? If you run your bike to 6-8000 miles are you asking for serious issues? I'm sure there will be a reply about the dirt that gets in from running on dirt roads, but I ran many dirt roads in the Subaru without issue.

Thanks again for the information.
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In part because the bikes have a wet clutch, and also because they've got much tighter tolerances generally than car motors in general and subaru motors specifically.

what car?? · Jul 26, 2012

"they've got much tighter tolerances generally than car motors in general and subaru motors specifically'"

Sorry but I don't buy that statement. In all my professional wrenching, the "loosest" engines I came across were American vehicles. I believe European and Asian engines have the greatest longevity because of such stringent tolerances. I have seen numerous engines from Europe and Asian in excess of 300,000 + miles. I have only seen a few American engines lasting that long. I have torn down countless engines from European, Asian, and American autos. Though I can believe the tolerances in motorcycles to be higher than vehicles in general, as well as the wet clutch which of course vehicle engines do not have, but I have never torn down a motorcycle engine and taken a micrometer to one.

Customer came in with a peculiar rattle from the engine from a Saab 900. He stated he just had the engine rebuilt from a local machine shop, followed their 'break in' procedure to a "T", but had a noise that was disconcerting to him. Found out it was a piston skirt issue. Pulled the engine and started in with the mic, loose. Called up the machine shop: after much discussion, I found they build their engines with specification more in line with how American engines are built, IE... loose. Guy sold his engine, we found another and had a better machine shop build it with specifications that was agreed upon with customer and I. Customer stated he felt the 'new' engine of our specs was stronger and of course no noise. I'm not an engineer or anything like that, but I feel the Europeans build the best engines out there. But of course these are just opinions and YMMV. But now getting off topic...

crofrog · Jul 26, 2012

what car?? said: ↑

"they've got much tighter tolerances generally than car motors in general and subaru motors specifically'"

Sorry but I don't buy that statement. In all my professional wrenching, the "loosest" engines I came across were American vehicles. I believe European and Asian engines have the greatest longevity because of such stringent tolerances. I have seen numerous engines from Europe and Asian in excess of 300,000 + miles. I have only seen a few American engines lasting that long. I have torn down countless engines from European, Asian, and American autos. Though I can believe the tolerances in motorcycles to be higher than vehicles in general, as well as the wet clutch which of course vehicle engines do not have, but I have never torn down a motorcycle engine and taken a micrometer to one.
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Dude your dense... I was saying that they are tighter and need a higher quality oil than a car. You specifically mentioned your subaru going 10,000+ if you own a subaru like you say you do, and are a mechanic you'd know they aren't the tightest and quietest motors. I've own a modified WRX and wrench on modded wrx's and STI's on a regular.

I don't think you'd go 10,000 miles between changes in your ferrari? The 950/990 motor is allot closer to a race motor than a fucking oil cooled dry clutched BMW motor for instance.

Outside of all of this, the clutch is bathed in the engine oil each time you use the clutch you add contamination to the oil. On slow rides with lots of clutch the oil will be damn near black after words even if it was fresh before the ride.

Also you state with no damage that you verified with compression checks, last time I checked compression checks don't show you anything when it comes to bearing wear

Balder681 · Jun 12, 2013

Hi guys,

I have a 990 Adventure and would like to use some full synthetic longtime/longlife oil that lasts longer on my lovely bike. I do know it's better to change it more regularly and surely it's not about the price, but I am a practical person and I'd like to ride longer and not sit to change oil every few thousand kms. Of course it depends how I am driving my bike, but isn't there a way to increase the oil change at 10-15000km without any big negative impact on the engine?

And another question: if the water pump is not sealed and cooling fluid comes into the engine, how big is the impact on the engine oil and it's ability to lubricate? I am aware it's ruining the paper oil filter and from there oil pressure is lost and etc etc. But what if I have the oil filter from scotts? How long can I drive with getting cooling fluid in the engine oil without any serious impact on the engine? There are special oils for boat engines, which are not affected in their lubrication abilities even if water comes into the engine. How appropriate is such an engine oil for the LC8?I don't wanna get stuck with this problem in the deep jungle and having no alternative to get to the next civilized place...

Appreciate the answers in advance,
Nik.

MortimerSickle · Jun 12, 2013

I believe that frequent oil changes are the most important maintenance you can do to extend engine life.

I change every 3000 miles, even with full synthetic.

If I found water in my oil while in a remote area, I think I would change it for whatever oil I could find, as many times as necessary, until I got back to civilization.

Mr_Snips · Jun 12, 2013

I'm just gonna keep using motul 300v in the 10w-60 flavor. Oil is cheaper than a motor

Mikef5000 · Jun 12, 2013

crashmaster said: ↑

In total I did about 12 oil changes, 3 water pump changes, a couple valve checks, 2 fork services, 1 shock service, 4 paper air filters, and cleaned my UNI prefilter every couple of weeks. Never did have an issue finding what I needed, but you can plan it out, and sometimes you have to look around a bit to find what you need but its not a problem if youre flexible.

I would highly recommend that you keep up with regular water pump change intervals as it can be a pain in the ass to get oil and coolant when one fails and your far from anything.
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:eek1 Sorry, off topic here... but 3 water pump changes in one (albeit huge) trip? I'm flabbergasted... are they really that bad? Why not get the CJ 3 year/36k mile one? Still not trustworthy? I'm judging by your 12 oil changes, that you rode between 30k and 40k miles... and needed 3 water pumps? That's a bit disappointing.

Sorry for the sidetrack... but I was floored by the thought of 10k mile water pumps (new here, and I guess I didn't realize they were that bad).

unaweep · Jun 12, 2013

Mikef5000 said: ↑

:eek1 Sorry, off topic here... but 3 water pump changes in one (albeit huge) trip? I'm flabbergasted... are they really that bad? Why not get the CJ 3 year/36k mile one? Still not trustworthy? I'm judging by your 12 oil changes, that you rode between 30k and 40k miles... and needed 3 water pumps? That's a bit disappointing.

Sorry for the sidetrack... but I was floored by the thought of 10k mile water pumps (new here, and I guess I didn't realize they were that bad).
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They're not. I'm guessing crashmaster was being very proactive on a big trip. Can't say I blame him. It's easier to maintain than repair- especially on the road.

BigNastybrp · Jun 12, 2013

Mr_Snips said: ↑

I'm just gonna keep using motul 300v in the 10w-60 flavor. Oil is cheaper than a motor
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This is in by top two oils but it needs to be the 300 v double ester. Good stuff change it ever 3000 miles or less and it will last

DockingPilot · Jun 12, 2013

I was using a class V triple ester 10-50. Surprisingly, after a UOA by Blackstone, the shear was more then my class IV syn 10-40 oil I used prior. Again, according to Blackstone. I was a bit taken back by those results. 1,500 miles on the oils with shared sump. The larger the spread the harder it is to stay in grade

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Pismo950 · May 14, 2014

Just bought a 990 with 5K miles and am going to change the oil for the first time.
Read through the oil thread still confused about the best way to go.
I have always been happy with Mobile 1 full syn so I figured Id go with the M1 15/50 but wanted to make sure I was getting the right oil as there is no mention of 4T.

http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-94002-1...qid=1400103532&sr=8-1&keywords=mobile+1+15/50

kag · May 14, 2014

Thats what I run

snoop dog · Dec 15, 2017

Hi Guys.
sorry to change the conversation.
I am new to this site and im trying to put out an open post.
I have a KTM 950 adventure which was running fine up to a few days ago.
theres a loud clicking noise coming from the engine and the oil light stays on since then.
has anyone any idea what it could be?
il be glad of your help on this.
many thanks, snoop dog.

NKL · Dec 16, 2017

Does it sound like a slack cam chain? Water pump seal is common. Pull your oil filter out and have a look at the paper, are all the pleats still parallel or all wrinkled. Are you loosing coolant. If not that, there has been issues with the oil pressure relief valve.

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