The headlight appears to be powered through a relay that latches closed when you press the starter button. It is off until you start the engine, if you were to bump start it the headlight would stay off (getaway mode) I think I have a bad connection somewhere, but I've been crazy busy lately and haven't had a chance to track it down. The bike only has 66,6xx miles on it and I ride it every day to get to work, it's been dark in the mornings here and it's pretty scary to be in traffic at 6:00 AM with no lights, on a black bike too. My speedo cable just broke, so I guess I'll have a chance to look for the problem while I replace the speedo cable.
My guess is your J-box is in need of some TLC. This is a common failure in the "concours classic." There are a few options to correct the problem (in order of increasing cost) ... 1. Remove the j-box and re-solder all the relay connections on the board. 2. Send your j-box out for refurb (google "concours j-box refurbished" to find someone to do that). 3. Buy a new j-box (I recommend www.murphskits.com). Good luck!
Where is the j box? Left side of the fairing? Or under the seat? I think I'll be resoldering, new box might be more than I paid for the bike :) (I think I was a KLR rider in a previous life)
I was riding my old C-10 home one night - it was October 31, btw - and the low beam went out. No problem, I just switched to high beam. Apologies to the peepers that were blinded as a result. Got a few miles from home, and the high beam went out. :eek1 I finished the ride with just the light from the flashers. No street lights. A bulb change fixed it.
It is under the seat kinda. Remove left side panel and it is looking right at you. There is a guy on COG that redoes these - I believe it is $60 to rebuild and redo. I never needed it, but folks over at COG love the work he does. Really, try the bulb - and it wouldn't hurt to check/clean connections - on any bike - at any time.
New bulb and socket already installed before this started. I'll check the junction box. sent from a device designed specifically to annoy scottrnelson YES I do know how to change it, just never bothered as I was too busy riding my motorcycle.
So if the light cutting out started after the change, I wonder if going over those connections would be in order. Spraying out / Cleaning out the switch gear would also make sense.
But if I press the starter button it comes back on, and it's not just the headlight it's so the lights that stay off until you start the bike. I wasn't clear about that. I'm thinking it's the junction box, and now that I think about it... Sometimes even the oil pressure and neutral lights don't come on with the key. I just need time to look at it, but I have my bandit running again after my son "laid her down" for me so I've been riding that again. I'm glad I have more than one :) I just wish the bandit had the Connie's bags
The j-box is the thing on the left side of the bike with the fuses in it. The box under the saddle is the igniter. I touched up the solder joints on my j-box many years ago and so far (knock on wood) I've had no issues with it. While we're on the subject of the igniter, there was a posting on how to get "free power" by repairing a poor ground to the igniter. Check it out here: http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=48098.0
I did the same thing.......I can see....now I can't. ...now I can....now I cant...repeat till home :eek1
yeah, I had a spare bulb. I just didn't have any desire to stop on a narrow country road with no shoulders to change it in the pitch black...
By the way, I have a couple of great Russel seats up in the flea market in case anyone is interested.
I ran across a 2004 C10 with 14000 miles on it, in excellent condition, good tires, new battery, fresh service. Cee Baileys windshield and gen-mar bar risers. OEM seat. Asking $4400. It's got me thinking of robbing a convenience store.
That's kind of a high price, mrbreeze. I paid $2900 for my 2001. That said, BUY IT. After you talk them down a bit.