The Professor, Bloodweiser's RD400

This thread was created for the sake of organization.

I initially started a thread in Old's Cool, which got promptly moved to 'Some Assembly Required' which I guess is appropriate. But questions don't get answered over there, and I find myself creating quick threads over here in regard to the build. So this here is where I'm going to keep specific questions and details of my build - and I'll keep updating the contest in SAR as progress is made.

Previous threads relating to my RD400:
Contest thread
Timing Questions
Electrical Gizmos
Pistons WTF
Transmission ?s
Crank ?s


Because every first post needs pictures;


Where I started:




Where I am now:

Looking good, freshened up crank and new rods?

yessir.

Crank ala Lyn Garland. New rods, bearings, seals. A new bearing or two in the tranny.


Installed some clip-ons last night. Still have some tidying to do

Let's talk.

Major purchases that remain are pipes and ignitions.

Ignitions
I like the Dyna S price point.
Are the other available units really worth double? Why?
Chinoy, MZB?


Pipes
SpecII or Moto Carrera Millenium GP?
Does anyone know the actual going rate for a set of SpecIIs?
That website is crazy out of date.

the chinoy ignition was sweet - is it still available?

i have also run the newtronics ignition which is kinda goofy, but works well.

moto carrera pipes were awesome - is someone remaking these? there are a lot of pipes available for rd's... the rd400 not as many though..

Economy Cycle is still hawking the Chinoy @ $679
They've got the MZB @ &569 and Dyna S at $299



Moto Carrera has the GP pipes on their site.

looks like the chinoy ignition has changed - the early one was pretty good. i bet the new one is bad ass. pricey though. the moto carrera pipes went way up in price - they used to be 500ish - but that was years ago...

the mzb ignition is significantly cheaper if you buy direct - shipping is obnoxious though....

I'll probably go with the MZB. After thinking heavily, I figure I'm going to want a fancier ignition down the line - so I might as well bite the bullet and grab the MZB now, rather than Dyna. Gotta wait until after the new year though, can't risk sacrificing that many points now.


Now about that oil pump. I pulled mine out, along with the oil tank and lines. I know it's not that simple. I should probably jet up one size to compensate. But what other mods do I need to do to make this work? Are there inlets in the carbs that need to be blocked? Should I plug the case where the pump lines when in? Anything else I'm not thinking about?

need to block off the oil pump mount, block off the 2 fittings on the carbs. i think that's it.

you're gonna need to rejet anyways - i never trust what's in there - but keep track of every change, 1 change at a time. start big and work down.

keep in mind, if the mzb fails you're shit outta luck. the points are not that bad on the rd's.. does pvl make an ignition for that guy?

oh yeah, put a block off plate on the case already.

PVL? http://www.pentonracingproducts.com/ mentions having them,
but they don't elude to where you might be able to trade money for such a thing.
There's a PVL racing ignition on ebay right now, for the same $ as the MZB. I'd still like to be able to run lights.

I was thinking though, of fitting a racing ignition. And running the street shit (lights, blinkers, horn) on a whole separate system. Kind of like a quick detach "street legal system" that I could yank when I hit the track. I haven't thought about the specifics yet - nor do I really have much electrical knowledge. If I did that, It would probably end up being flashlight host clamped to the forks and a bicycle horn on the handlebars.

Points fair ok, you say? Maybe I'll hold off a bit then. I still have to grab up some pipes, tires, y-boot, battery.... in essence, I still have a lot of money I need to through at this piece.

you could easily run the lights total loss. switch everything but the headlight to led for energy conservation, a UPS battery should power them for a long time.

if you're putting a y-boot and pipes on it you're definitely rejetting, otherwise you'd be ridiculously lean.

I had a 76 RD400 in orange. Great to see one getting treated so well. As to ignitions, is there any chance a later CDI off a Banshee would bolt in? Just thinking out loud.

stator/flywheel won't fit.

there's lotsa options available, it all depends on what you want to spend.

But why would an mzb fail? Never heard odd it. And their service is pretty good.

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How bout that Sandy? School's around here got scared,
had the whole day off



Motor is in.
Put on some Ikon shocks I had laying around.
Ordered new tires.
Took off some more crap.
And started to make these FZR rearsets work



Starting to think about hiding some electrical gizmos.
There's a lot of room under the rear of the tank,
huge tunnel.
Any foreseeable complications to putting stuff in there?

if you're putting a yboot in, there will be space under the seat..... probably easier to access.. and you removed oil tank right? lotsa space.

yboot for sure.
That airbox was a bastard to remove.
Oil tank is gone too.

Oh there's tons of space all over, definitely room under the seat.
I just wanted to do a good job of tiding up the bike.
Seemed like under the tank was a good spot to jam some crap.

I gotta figure my seat up soon too.
Have some fibreglass and crap,
never tried it before.
Maybe it's about time I did.

Shucks, got all winter.

there is no doubt about that. at first it seems they built the bike around the airbox.

Playing around.

Took this whole mess of junk,
which was bolted on under the right side cover



And the damn thing just slides under the tank and sits on the rails!



I don't know if this is how it'll be,
but it sure is kinda neat how well it slid right in there and fits.

--------

Finished up the brackets for my FZR rearsets



I just need some longer allthread and the shifter should be good to go.




I really need help brainstorming for the brake side.
Somehow have to get the stick lined up with the master cylinder.




I thought about mounting the MC on the outside,
but it sticks out crazy far.
I feel like I might have to move it, but I'm not sure exactly.

*if anyone has pics to share of disc brake RD rearsets, I'd love to see some close ups!!!

Would a z shaped rod work ? Tilt the M/C forward a bit and get a brake rod that goes behind the frame tube.
Or find a more modern M/C that doesn't have the brake light hydraulic switch plumbing and bolt it to the outside like you already tried.
Or, get rid of that switch, plug the hole and bolt it to the outside.
In either case use one the readily available conventional brake light switches to actuate the rear brake light.

I used to have a Geneva green RD, as well as the Blue, and wish I still had them. Oh well.