KLR650 Only Thread......

Well I am thinking this is highly likely, I am not sure how though. But either way new lines can't hurt.

I have EBC pads on the way, but if the stock pads are decent I will save the new ones for replacements on the trip.

The Front rotor and pads are Galfer. I ordered an extra set of ebc for the front from eagle mike. Are these pads ok for the Galfer rotor?

The back is currently 100% stock with a little over 5K miles. I have ordered Steel line and ebc pads for the rear also from eagle mike.

Also My bike is an '07

I have cut a vast majority of tools out of my kit by replacing every bolt with a socket cap ( allen ) bolt . i can take almost my whole bike apart with one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Multifu...411?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e1984583
i got a quality one from a local shop .
i carry a swiss army champ and multi tool, adjustable wrench and vice grips as well as tire irons . I would like to replace the vice grips with a leatherman crunch as i like things that can do more then one thing . I think i carry a 13 mill wrench for the rear axle adjusters too .
besides the tools , some wire fuses patches tape glue .. stuff like that

Partially, yes, as well as it has been extensively discussed, and like oil discussions, filled mostly with speculation, half truths and repeated tribal lore.

Pre 08, pistons could break the land between the rings resulting in excessive oil usage. In 08 the piston KAWA changed with new thinner rings. Their wall pressure was only about 3lbs. As JJ has commented, ring flutter among other things (something known to Corvette owners at one point ). In 09 Kawa again redesigned the piston and rings and that mostly cured that in the stock pistons.

The late Cary Aspy in conjuction with JE pistons, designed a new forged piston and rings that have 11lbs pressure in the Schnitz 685 offering. I have one , a 685 with 46K miles on that piston now, most of which has been run at 5k rpm and above with a 16 th counter sprocket for hours on end. After an 8 day 4000 miles ride last September, the oil level dropped about 1/8" in the sight glass.

I hope that answers your question. I dont have experience on other makes with regards to rings so will not express a comment other than design is a significant contributor to oil usage.

Depending on if you do your own tire work and on the road;
Tar arns!
Bead breaker, small electric pump and patches
# 1 Phillips
1 1/2" large washer to take the plastic crank and timing caps off
handfull of tywraps.
Spare bulbs,
Spare fuses.

and a bucket full of smarts to be able to use them.

Aside from cost, and concerns over BMW reliability why would you do a KLR over a BMW Sertao?

I like them both and I am torn.

You answered your own question ...my .02

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Stupid question, do you spray chain lube on at the rear sprocket?

.....that could be your problem. My rear locks up great and the brakes work good too. :huh

Nope. I just lube the chain. I also installers a Scott's oiler and I don't see any overspray. The only time I can lock the brake is at very low speed on gravel. I am going to replace the line and properly bleed the brakes. I don't expect miracles, but it has to improve. A dirt or sandy hill would scare the shit out of me right now.

You definitely have something a little off. Mine can lock them up easily with the rubber lines but I do have EBC pads and I make sure all air is out. Have you tried to do a couple quick pumps of the pedal to see if they get better? With no air there is no need to pump but with air it helps(or if the master cylinder seal is going out).

You should be able to lock them up even if it takes a bit more pressure, but if you have to pump the pedal there's air in there. The SS braided lines will make them less "spongy" at the pedal and a firmer feel.


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Mine is an '08. I run a 16t countersprocket to aid in freeway RPM's but I mostly avoid the freeway when I can.


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I am looking for some Motowizard fork preload adjusters, anyone know where to get these or have any laying around they are willing to part with? Thanks.

the guy who makes them passed away . if you are looking for first gen ones good luck i have been searching for a while now . second gen are 41mm and i have seen a lot on fleabay that will probably work .

Yeah, forgot to add that I'm looking for a Gen 1. Well if you run into any that will work please let me know and I'll do the same, looks like I might have just missed the boat on these. Damn!

Found these but have no idea if the thread/pitch is the same for the KLR forks and the Marzocchi forks.

https://store.bevelheaven.com/chassis-suspension/adj-preload-fork-cap-kit-38mm-marzocchi/

Cant help with the Galfer rotor and ebc pads. No experience there. The EBC rotor and EBC pads (HH) do not work well together - rotor scores badly - braking is good though. I would rather replace pads than the rotor. Different rotor alloys.

I got 45K miles out of the rear stock pads.

Everyone brakes differently. I favor the front with a touch of rear on the black top. I also ride aggressively and so the front pads wear.

Thanks for the input. I definitely favor the front, as we all should. I likely would not have even noticed the back crappiness had I not been screwing around. But I.know they are too weak as is to make me feel good about riding in loose stuff where I may need to depend on my rear more.

the rear KLR brake works fine as is... especially in the loose stuff. it will also lock the rear

You do realize that EBC (and almost every other brand) makes different grades of pads don't you. There are sintered, your "H" type, semi metallic, organic, grooved , non grooved , ect....... If one is gouging the rotor it is as simple as getting a "softer" pad.
Kind of like saying Mobile oil wrecks engines because a person uses 50w in the middle of winter, rather than going to 5w or 10w.


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:huh

Anyone install 2" Anti-vibe Rox Risers on a 2008?

Would love the rise for off-road, and the anti-vibe qualities for on

It appears that longer cables are needed, and I don't want to deal with that.

Really mixed messages on the forum thus far, and it shouldn't be that way, right? The risers install on a 2008 either with or without the need for longer cables, no?

Easy install, or major modifications???

Please state your experience, how much time it took you, the extent and specifics of modifications required, and perhaps also state your mechanical ability level, 1-10

If the idle speed goes up upon turning the handlebars after the install, turning the idle screw to accommodate the change is not a solution here. No ghettoe fixes - looking for a clean, safe install

Not relishing 'taking apart the whole bike,' only to find out that I can't eke out enough cable length to do a clean install...

Really appreciate your input!!!