I like my little klx250s, it's an 07 piped, jetted, free mods, some weight removed, bigger tank, risers, bars, etc. I'm 6' and 190 pounds. 14000kms in 2 years, and this one's not over yet. I'm happy on the road, mostly happy riding by myself, but when I'm riding trails w/faster riders on faster bikes, there is just too much of a disparity between us. It feels like I'm beating the piss out of my little bike all the time. Revved to the max, banging through the gears, and maxxing the suspenders. Recently rebuilt the back shock with heavier spring and some slight valving changes which definitely helps. I'll be clear right from the start - euro bikes are out, I just can't find any in my price range, that also don't need a lot of farkles. Money is an issue, I can pick up a used - plated DRZE for a little older than mine, but lower miles for about the same price as I expect to get for my bike. In fact I'd probably have a few extra bucks for suspension upgrades to the 400. I feel like the big shortage on my bike is the torque, I could do the big bore kit - not really that much money, but am I still coming up short? If I read it right the 400e weighs the same as the klx so the weight isn't necessarily the big deal it is with the S model. I can also pick a wr450 or klx450 in the same range but I'm concerned about having to do motor work on a regular basis, especially since I do use my bike to commute down backroads to work (trails on the way home). So the question is do I big bore my bike, buy a plated enduro bike and have to rebuild it, or go with a 400e? Is the difference between the KLX and the 400E enough to make it worth my while to change bikes? As far as the tranny issue, I've geared my bike down enough that it's screaming at 100kph anyways, so the DRZe won't be that much worse. Discuss! Thanks, Doug
I seriously consider doing the 351 on my KLX250S (also an '07) but with the abyssmal fuel range of just the 250cc I hate to think of what it would drop to with the 351.
Fuel range is easily fixed with the IMS 3 gallon tank. I have it, and it is great. Retains stock appearance, but increases your range by 50%...
I've got the clarke on mine, gives me about 200km which is just about perfect for my rides. I test rode a 351 with the pumper, and the owner figured he was only getting 80k out of a stock tank - this is why I didn't buy that bike. I did see something when googling about valve problems on the 351, but I don't know much about it. Seriously thinking that by the time I turn this bike into what I need, I might as well go and get a 400-450. It's too bad though b/c I really do like it.
have a drz, "s" model, and love it. it's reliable, but i'm considering others. the problem is, what will replace the tractor-like climbing, cheap parts (plentiful) and ergos ? not much, for a cheap ass like me. you definitely don't need a big bore kit on a drz, just dirt gearing and some decent tires. the E has better carb, better cams, better gearing off the bat. if you need a subframe, get a S. thankfully there is a SM version, that gets blown up/wrecked on a daily basis providing me with lots of cheap parts. some guys get 20,000 miles out of their stators, some don't. change your oil every 1,000 miles. do the loctite fixes. read the faq on thumpertalk. good stuff ! i'm looking for a wr250r at fire sale prices... but apparently that doesn't happen yet.
Do your research before spending your money on anything. One guy getting crap mileage is not adequate research. I have a feeling you'd do much better for dualsporting on the big-bored KLX than the DR-Z E, even though the DR-Z can be built for silly power. Gearing spread is the main reason. As for MPG...I'm a DR650 guy, and I sometimes hear other DR riders saying they'd never change from the stock jetting in the stock carb because it would kill their MPG. They know this because it happened to a guy their cousin Ralph's buddy knows. We've got DR riders reporting anywhere from low 30s to 60+MPG, with an average of about high-40s to low 50s, and alot of the riders reporting over 45MPG are running richer jetting and/or a pumper carb, compared to stock. I get about 50MPG, which is pretty close to what I got with a stock main jet, stock slide, and uncut airbox. My DR now pulls down the interstate like a freight train with an attitude...2up with luggage. I'm no carbing wizard either. I just read instructions on how to tune things when I install them. Projects usually turn out fine when I do them this way. I'm guessing that a 6spd KLX250-351 on secondary roads can easily manage better MPG than a slab-bombing DR650, and a 351 may even manage better MPG than a 250, IF it's tuned properly. A healthy 351 likely won't have to work as hard at higher speeds to overcome wind. Anyway...People who don't/can't follow directions usually end up with half-assed results, then they sell them to somebody else who has to figure out what they messed up. 80km is ridiculous range for a thumper dualsport. One would think the guy would have corrected that issue. I can get that on about 1gal with a piped and jetted 650, hauling a passenger and luggage.
I haven't modified my KLX yet, but I got 70 mpg (after compensating for the odometer being off) on my last ride. I doubt a properly modded 351 with the correct jetting would get worse than 55-60 mpg. My son is doing the 351 kit to his this winter, so in the spring I'll get to see first hand how it does. Depending on his experience, I may end up doing the same kit...
What kind of bikes are your mates riding? Do they also commute on theirs? If you're pounding the piss out of the KLX would you not be pounding the piss out of a DRZ even harder? Sounds like you need a suspension upgrade more than a power upgrade. The DRZ would be in the same boat.
That's what I'm wondering. Knowing that the KLX400R and the DRZE 400 weigh the same as a KLX, Is there enough difference in power to warrant switching bikes? It sounds like the 450s just aren't going to like the amount of roads I run, and I don't want to do a rebuild every year. As far as the suspension, my shock has been warmed over and a heavier spring added which definitely made a big difference in handling, still need to do the front. But by the time I redo the front, add a big bore with or without a new carb will I be any farther ahead than just picking up a plated 400 (already farkled and enough money left over to do the suspension). Especially since I know of 3 for sale for just under 3000. If I had the money I'd like to pick up a 400, ride them both and sell off which one I don't want, but I doubt the wifey will go for it.
Any 250 single cylinder 4 stroke will have to be revved to the moon to keep a good trail pace or fireroad pace,+ they end up weighing about as much as a 400 such as a DRZe. I guess the 250 feels lighter due to the smaller engine. Ive ridden dirt and dual purpose bikes since the late 70's and Im pretty sure Id be bored to tears with a 250 thumper. I know theres a huge following for the little things though. Ive done a bunch of set up work on my plated DRZe but left the engine stock with a fresh top end. It makes just enough power to keep up or pass most guys on dual purpose bikes with out being revved out much,the DRZe isnt really a revver anyway. Ive had euro dual sports and the return for the money spent doesnt work out for me,seems like at the 10,000/15000 mile or so area they are getting ready for an expensive rebuild. Dualsporting isnt a race,its more about going a long ways and reliability is a key issue. If I only wanted a dirt bike with a plate a trick euro bike would be good,I use the bike for more then that though. My plated DRZe was 2400 but I have pretty much rebuilt nearly every moving part on it,so it was pretty well used.
Ridden a stock klx250s and compared to my drz400s it's soooooo slow, there's no bottom end. Still a fun bike bike but a 400e with the better carb and lighter weight would be an awesome step up, reliable, lots of aftermarket, tons of info out there, my s has a cvk40 carb pipe air box mod, 14/47 gearing, trak masters, bars,case guards, 3.2gal ims, skid plate, hand guards, rad guards, tail/headlight changed and anything it didn't need cut off to save weight and it's a great dual sport.... We pound the piss out of them almost every Sunday spring through fall and they take it with ease... A recent rally prompted me to buy a used ktm 200 exc though for those serious off road only weekends after the flogging I took muscling the Z through 7hrs of slop and rain.... Big bore or Z.... I really like my Z...
Upgrading the KLX250 with a big bore kit will cost a lot of money that you won't get back when you sell it. If you can sell your KLX250 and buy a DRZ400 for the same price, that is a no brainer. There are several necessary mods for the DRZ, including case protectors, bigger tank, and jetting changes, but they are no complicated (thumpertalk.com has all the info). The DRZ400E has a lot more power, but nowhere near that of a KTM or other 'racing' 450's. The biggest limitations are in narrow gearing range and the E versions do not have the street equipment (speedo/odo, lights, turn signals, and a subframe for carrying luggage) that you might want. Or don't care about. If the E is plated and has the stuff you want, go for it. If you think the DRZ revs too much on the highway, use earplugs and ignore the noise. But it must be far better than the KLX250. Of course, I am biased since I own a KLX400SR, which is the (faster) green DRZ400S. It's a bit heavy for trail work, but that's what my 200EXC is for.
i just got this 99 wr400 for $2300..its plated -stock 40 hp- modded 50hp- fun, lighter than my xr650l i sold recently- this thing is easy to find parts for and trick up and better than a drz400 in all respects. good suspension ergos like a motocrosser and you can gear it up [like im doing]15/47 to go faster on the top end for commuting .i like this bike so far...
I own a KLX and am going with the 351 and cam work this winter. If I could plate a DRZ400e here in Ontario, I would forget the KLX all together but it was the right bike for the right price at the time. So from my perspective, go for the trade. Both bikes weigh about the same and the DR is much torquier. It's a no-brainer.
I have an 09 KLX250. Was getting 70 mpg stock. Did the 351 with FMF pipe, snorkle, and block-off plate. Using stock rejetted carb. 351 gets 63 mpg under light throttle cruising and down to 58 running hard through the trails. BTW....the 351 transforms the bike. Best mod I ever made on a bike.
I went from an XR650R, to a DRZ400E to a WRR (which is along the lines of the KLX). I had zero complaints wiht the DRZ when I owned it, other than the lack of 6th gear and a very slight top heavy feel. It was a good bike, and I would have kept it if I could have gotten a plate. Honestly, while the 250 is down on power compared to the DRZ, it is (IMO) a little better handling on the trail and a much better road bike. BUT, it was way down on tourque, and that got to be a bit bothersome. For the gain in handling on the trail, you give up tourque, and sometimes that is a hard compromise. The OP hit the nail on the head when he said he enjoyed his bike when riding alone. I like my WRR for exploring and checking out our local trails, but it is a little bit outgunned on fast paced group rides with 400' and 450's. Keeping up is not a problem, but you have to work alot more to stay in the powerband- especially coming out of tight corners when you are on the brakes hard then blasting out. It also shows it's weakness when you have to get the front wheel up in a hurry...we have alot of mud holes and log crossings, and it is nice to be able to blip the throttle to help get the wheel up. Again, it's not a huge issue....but if you are at a stage in your riding where you are knocking bars in fast paced group rides w/ good natured competition, it is something to consider. I don't know that I would trade a KLX or WRR for a DRZ...not because their is anything wrong with the DRZ at all, but because the gain/loss almost makes it a wash. In hindsight, if I could have gotten a tag, I probably wouldn't have traded my DRZ for the WRR. BUT, I am giving up the WRR and going orange; lighter weight, more power, and a 6th gear...and more maintenance. But, at this stage in my riding, that's and acceptable compromise. I also like the adaptability of the RFS engine- it may be higher maintenance, but it is maintainable.
I wonder if a drz with higher gearing and a Recluse clutch would even things out? Gearing for the highway and an automatic clutch for the tight stuff. I would also lower the suspension(properly) to lower the centre of gravity, but that's just me.
