Greetings, fellow inmates! My buddy who did Costa Rica with me isn't going to be able to go to Nicaragua after all, so I'll be doing a 2-week solo adventure for the first half of April (2014). It would be cool to cross paths with other ADVers, so if you're going to be there let me know and I'll buy you a beer or a cup of coffee or something. I like to travel with just a rough plan, so the only reservations I'm making are for the first night and last night (both at SalCar's place in Managua, which is also where I'm renting the bike). The general idea will be to visit Granada, Ometepe, Matagalpa/Jinotega, and Leon, lingering somewhere if it's particularly nice or if there's lots of exploring nearby. I might also pop over to the coast around San Juan del Sur if it seems like that might be fun, although I'm really not much of a hang-out-on-the-beach person. Any tips on must-see places within reach of such a short trip would be greatly appreciated!
Sounds like a nice plan. Matagalpa-jinotega for me are some of the best drives. There's a nice route to take there. From matagalpa to jinotega to Esteli. You'll appreciate the mountains that time of year, as the rest of nicaragua will be sweltering.
Try to focus on the north and Estelli region, its mountains (cooler) and Coffee Country (Gorgeous) and few gringos (Sandanistas). Ometepe is super majical IMO, 4 nights would be great. Not all ferries to Ometepe are for vehicles, last one is 3:30 or so from San Jorge... The south, and SW is hotter than hell, arid and humid, Granada/Leon/San Juan del Sur...id skip SJDS and go to beaches outside Leon, or further north. Get the MOON Guidebook for Nicaragua...has it all. Have a Tona for me :)
Muchas gracias, amigos. I do have the newest Moon and Lonely Planet guides. Four nights on Ometepe sounds like a good idea to me! Thanks also for the heads-up on the vehicle ferry. Actually more details on the ferry would be fantastic: Is it every day? What time should I be in San Jorge to make sure I get on it? Are there multiple vehicle ferries, and do they all go to the same place on Ometepe? Sorry for all the questions. This is the sort of info that isn't in the guides. Oh yeah, how much is the ferry for motorcycles, and should I pay in Cordobas or $US? Thanks again.
Here's one of the most fun day rides I did in Nicaragua, improvised at the time as I wanted a beach ride but it turned into something much better. A true little ADV loop. From Granada go down to the water and get onto NIC 39, which is the small paved road at the waters edge. Head northwest along the one lane paved road and enjoy the view. Slow for the sand drifts, they're deep. It'll turn into dirt and pass through small villages before turning inland. You'll get to a big river and catch an excellent and sketchy little ferry across. The day I did it they were ferrying cows across. Ride the dirt road until you get to another small town against a river. It'll look like the end of the road. But if you ride along the river edge in the town you'll see a tin bridge, maybe 5 feet wide that crosses the river. Don't worry, it'll take the bike no problem. It's a little confusing after the bridge as there doesn't seem to be a road. Follow the river bank down about 200 yards and you'll see the dirt road again. Enjoy the beautiful scenery, then you'll get to your first water crossing (by bike). No problem. Another follows, a bit bigger. Then, you get to what looks to be the end of the road again for bikes - a pond. No problem, pick your way around the southern edge. Walk it first - it gets deeper as you go but the bottom is good. Now you're in rural pasture on a great fast dirt road heading east. Let her rip until you meet up with the paved return road to Granada. You won't see another car until this. Maybe 5 hours and you've had a fantastic lake ride, sand, a ferry, a crap tin bridge, three water crossings, perfect dirt and you're back at the hostel. Wish I'd done it twice.
Sure! Send me e-mail with details about how to find it and what I'm looking for, and I'd be happy to bop over there. The account I use most is craig.haggart@yahoo.com .
Hey Craig, If you come to León, drop me a message and if I'm not on tour we can have a beer together or a glas of the famous ron. saludos Jürgen
Excellent, Jurgen! I will definitely be visiting Leon, but my plans are quite loose. Best guess is I'll be there maybe around April 10th, give or take a few days. Hope you're there!
i've done the route and many similar. don' expect much in that area on those routes in the way of food. local "hospitality" when you can find it. most likely something fried or grilled. bring some munchies along in case you find nothing. along the major paved highways in nica you will find some good roadside places. on the dirt roads though, not much is to be had.
a word of caution: semana santa (holy week) starts april 13th. frankly, and no offense to any christians, there is absolutely nothing holy about semana santa in nicaragua other than holy shit! it's crazy most of the country is off of work and they seem to all head to the beaches. inevitably, they are on the road in overloaded, unsafe vehicles driving drunk. i've been traveling to nica for almost 10 years, and have a house in managua. after makng the mistake once, i NEVER go during semana santa and never will unless someone is dead or dying, and then, maybe! the number of fatal traffic accidents during semana santa is simply staggering for such a small country. so, although you said you'll be doing the first half of april, try to wrap it up and be gone prior to the 13th.
Looks like I got lucky! I return the bike to Salvador on the 13th and fly home early morning on the 14th. I knew that Easter wasn't the best time to go due to everyone being on vacation and everything being closed, but I hadn't realized that the weeks leading up to it might be just as bad or worse (from a traveler's point of view). Perhaps the best plan would be to visit Leon last, which would mean I'd only have to ride from Leon to SalCar's place near Managua on Sunday. It would mean a very short time on the road that weekend. Thanks again for another heads-up, TeeVee.
you'll be fine. but since leon is close to the northern beaches, maybe plan a ride up to esteli in the north but further to the east. it's really beautiful up there. and if you are a little creative, you can do most of the trip off the main roads.
Oh, I'd be coming from there. Leon would be my last stop before returning to SalCar's place near Managua. Since time will be so limited, would you recommend Matagalpa, Jinotega, or Esteli? Or is each of those places worth a day and a night? I would realistically have about 3 days/nights in that area unless I spent less time somewhere else.
one day for each would be nice. that way you cover/experience more. another consideration is canon de somoto which is way up north near the honduran border.
