the DR650 thread

I've re-used the stock screws at the owners request. I use a Q-tip and cleaner to swab out the threads, clean the screw, install a star washer (thin - doesn't take much thread grab away) and blue loctite. No issues to date. I don't know what year they started with the allen head screws and those even have a bigger shoulder to grab the star washer with.

Sunthechip - headlight surround looks great! Part of the fun of a DR....making it yours.

+1 After laying on my back for 2 hours and a dozen trips into my tool box I pulled the clutch in 5 minutes. Used a 2x2 stick of wood in the rear wheel but a rag in the primary gears will hold things also.

TravelGuy

+1
A little bit of blue locktite is all that is needed to solve the problem.
Drilled screws and safety wire is overkill.

Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?

I just put mine in a zip lock bag.

http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/

+1 on the ziplock bag

Never had a problem using this type - it's independent of weather

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CQpBUQ-ZSKw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Cheers

haha..i was going to post the same video

No question that you are correct, and if the project were to come up again I would pull off the clutch. I just looked at it once I got that far and said 'I can do this' and so I did. Sometimes it is good practice/therapy to figure out how to get it done 'the hard way' (at least for me, being retired and sometimes having 'too much time' on my hands). Not enough miles on my DR that I was concerned about inspecting the clutch.

Off topic: Just got through putting my set of your SM wheels back on the bike for 'winter' (down in a warm state) use, couldn't help thinking (again) how nice those wheels are. Done again I would probably go with 19/17 rather than the 17/17 but I doubt that I will wear these out. Thanks!


Bruce

What kind of rubber did you decide to put on them?

We used to run drag boats with zoomies on them which is an exhaust pipe about 8" long coming off the head. Never had a valve problem. The big thing is to let the valves cool before shutting the motor off. When you work a bike (or anything) really hard those valves get super hot. If you just shut the bike off they then get cooled quickly. Doing this multiple times can cause the valves to lose their temper. It is always a good practice to let an engine idle/low rpm to let things cool down at a slower rate before shut down.

I just showed my wife this video....she thought there might be better options for garage door openers

For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu

I wonder if that part of the needle is exposed to fuel enough that a little grease wouldn't stay?

Anyone have a spare oem header or is there a better option.[/QUOTE]



Just saw these on ebay. might be worth a look??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280998084124?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1424.l2649

I had same issue years ago. I wired a remote switch in a discreet location on the side of the house. I've since seen them offered with keypads for ciphers. I can open the garage from outside the house now as long as the power is on.

On my big bike I took a small remote, opened it up and soldered in switch with leads on it. Then put in a sandwich bag and installed behind a panel with the switch installed in a hole I drilled in the panel.

I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...

Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please