Ladies and Gentlemen, In the old days, we would run 10w-40 SF in winter and 20-50 SF in summer. Done deal. With the camhead, and now the wethead, things aren't that simple any longer. I have had a proud owner of a wethead quote from his Owners Manual. No longer does it say "Oil requirements", but the term is "suggested". If you have any fantasy at all, you can imagine how many oil-threads will arise from this. Thus, we, here in the Mother of all Oil Threads, need to figure out what the Official GSpot FAQ Recommandation should be. Now, I am not very interested in what you personally think is the best oil. Or if Redline worked well in you '74 Commando, but rather what BMW requires for the '10 camhead and the new wethead. I know that the Owners Manual for the wethead says "Suggested oil: 5w-40 SL", but what does that mean? What does the engine require? Now, if you have access to a wethead manual you will notice that a particular producer is "suggested". If you know anything at all about oil, you will carefully refrain from dragging the producer into this. We want to advice our fellow travelers on the requirements, not some local producer. So, please enlighten me, and I will keep the GSpot FAQ abreast on the news. Thank you! [TaSK]
Seems to me that even BMW is saying it really doesn't matter. Case closed. My bet is this will be the last post
No it didnt. It suggested "Castrol Power 1 Racing SAE 5W-40, API SL / JASO MA2" I take this to mean they would like you to use "Castrol" brand oil, but other brands with similar properties will be acceptable. It means the engine requires SAE 5W-40. It really isnt rocket science.
For those that have access to this Mag....this months BMW MOA has super technical article on oil, with more graphs and technical info than any oil thread needs. I left the magazine in the bathroom......think I'll just read the owners manual from now on.
If I had one of those wetheads, I would use 5-40 HDEO...cheap and available and used in diesel engines 'round the world. As for brands, Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac or Chevron DELO here in the colonies.
Task, Sir. That was a remarkable re-branding of the oft cursed thread. I'm uncertain if you are sincere or have a slightly twisted vision of humour. Please advise.
So your interpretation of "Suggested" is that only the first part is a suggestion and the second a requirement. The question that will come is this one: When needing oil at some remote place, can I use 10w-40 on the wetheat. Your interpretation is that the answer is no. Did I get that correct? [TaSK]
Fresh oil tends to work better than broken, used or contaminated oil. But even some used oil can be okay. This is what my research is telling me.
Shakespeare to the rescue: It is not clear from the manual (on the wethead) if BMW mere suggests a producer or if they also suggest a viscosity and quality. Nice if I mis-read (not native Over There, you know) and, as mentioned above, 5w-40 is the requirement. For the GSpot FAQ, a single requirement is nice. But the question of 10w-40 will arise shortly, and I am trying to have it settled before we need the answer. Please notice that 10w-40 has already been suggested by one poster above! I'll write 5w-40 API SL in the FAQ for now. Please keep your eyes open for alternative sources of information. The "Repair CD", for example. [TaSK]
5w - 40w motorcycle oil - simple 10w - 30w motorcycle oil 20w - 50w motorcycle oil if it is hot out sure Wethead is a wet clutch bike so it would not be advisable to use a basic "car/truck" dry clutch based oil as it has added friction modifiers that will encourage a wet clutch to slip. With the wethead - gone are the days of cheap car or diesel oil. Anything in the range of 5w to 40w is fine with the same specs - depending on climate and usage. The larger the gap between the numbers the harder the oil has to work.... Any number of major brands will work well and fit the manuals suggestion.
I don't actually mind the oil threads. For the wetheads it'll be the same, but with one slight alteration. 1. Take the chart in your bikes manual. Make a list of the oils that are compatible. Generally it's large range of weights, and an certification that generally specifies an oil made in the last 20 years. 2. Go to the store, pick an oil that speaks to you. Marketing plays a big role in the oils people pick. All of those test results? Also marketing. Pick the one you like. I usually go for the one with the most bullshit on the bottle. 3. Cross reference the oil that you like with the oil list just to make sure it fits. Buy a gallon of it and enjoy. I would say that if you have the new R1200 LC with the wet clutch, you might want to buy an oil that is compatible with a wet clutch, though not all people do that, and it generally works out fine. If you have the old R1200, it doesn't really matter, but you might want those extra friction modifiers they put in there for cars, because why the hell not?
OK, I'll ask a question that's been bothering me for a while. The oils with the low number after the "W" are recommended for cooler ambient temperatures. Why do the ambient temperatures matter if the working temperature inside the engine is much higher?
I'd want to see the wethead manual in German to make sure it wasn't a translation error. (this one should add about 30 posts to the thread)
