Anybody ever have a steering stem seized in the bearings? Top clamp and nut is off. Normally the stem would just fall out the bottom, but I can't get it out. I've been soaking it in WD for 48 hours and pounding it pretty good with a hammer. It hasn't budged a mm. Aside from using a bigger hammer, any ideas?
Careful with the hammer, break out the hot wrench. Heating & light taps should do, heating & quenching with light taps if it doesn't.
How do you get the pig to start in winter conditions? I read something about turning the fuel mixture screw 1/4 turn "richer". Is that clockwise or counterclockwise ?
With the stock carb and an Edelbrock, I've turned up the idle a turn or so (no tools needed). With the stock carb, I also use the choke. With the Edelbrock, a couple of pumps of the throttle is enough enrichening to get it to pop. Once running, I've found it's best to not touch the throttle...let it sit and run like that while you put on the rest of your gear.
Did you also remove the nut and washer that was under the top triple clamp (the ones right on top of the top bearing)?
I know I am not the first person to experience brake fluid boil over on a 650R It can be a real show stopper on a long downhill. With the best fluid I could find (motoul 660) I still had the problem And with the better fluid it boiled over later but once overheated will go from brakes to no brakes without much warning. (fricken dangerous) So I wanted to a better fix, So here are a few top secret things to try. First off here is what my wiper seal at my rear caliper looked like. You can see it has been near on fire and melting Now here is what I did to dissipate and isolate the heat into the caliper and piston. Yes I drilled out the piston to release heat and air cool the area. this is how it looks with new pads and a near new rotor. And here you can see if you look closely there are 304 stainless shins on both pads (only one pad in picture) these have a very low heat transfer and keep the heat in the disc and pads, not the caliper.
Interesting idea, I never would have thought to drill the piston like that. Have you always used the same brake pads? What are they?
Have you always used the same brake pads? What are they?[/QUOTE] I have for the last few years stayed with EBC for brakes. Once i tried the EBC XMS pads I was hooked, now they offer Extreme pro pads that bite even better. that is the pad I use now.(HH Sintered) They do put more heat to the caliper than carbon pads will, but work at high temps way better.(until the fluid boils) I did fab up the stainless shims, the shims do not come with the pads, I wish they did.
FlyGuy, Nice drilling on the piston.... I think I will try this one day, and change the seal! HH EBC are the bombshizzle.... Only boiled the fluid once and it was scary to find out halfway down the very long rough hill there was nothing there :eek1
Interesting stuff Flyguy. Curious to see how the piston holds up with all the drilling. Great to see something being tried. I just swapped my rear brake line for a Stainless braided line and fresh fluids. Just trying one thing at a time for now to see if there are any changes.
Oh yes, while going around a corner, 30 miles from civilization. Heat can help, slide hammer, brute force and a bad attitude. It is probably seized on to the lower bearing.
Nice thinking. I rode with a guy who had a heatsink on his rear caliper, not sure who made it, may have been custom. But anyhow, I asked if that was really necessary, and he said yes, he has a habit of dragging the rear brake due to his heavy toes. Have you tried adjusting your lever so you are not braking on accident? Dumb question, I know. I have never overheated a rear, on any bike. The only brakes I have seen smoked were on a Seca I was bashing on the street one day.
Yes, the nut and washer/seal were removed. I finally managed to get it out. It was not stuck lightly.
Well for my riding the stock front brake was dangerous as well, But there are easy solutions to remedy the problem. The rear brake has no easy solutions that I know of. The 650R rear brake if the same one used on older steel frame CRs And yes on more front brake we got that covered.
Closer on that guys e-start https://www.facebook.com/video.php?...810970894&type=3&video_source=pages_video_set Soon as my shock arrives back I will start my rebuild... Common mail man!!!
I agree the stock front disc (250mm) is ridiculous for this bike. I have an EBC 280mm, but it looks like you went all the way to 320? That should stop you no problem! I ride pretty aggressively (ex-racer) and I have never had any brake fade. But I use mostly the front brake to slow down, only use the rear to steer!
