I am about to go check out early '80's Yamaha IT 175 that is for sale. Owner says only issue is it looks like oily residue on outlet of exhaust pipe. Could this just be 2 stroke build-up or is there an issue. From pic. it looks like it's all there, he said it starts right up, with no trans. issues, etc. What is a fair price for the bike? Thanks for input.
those old it's are cool bikes.. i would love to have one. they are 2 strokes, so oily black residue on end of pipe is normal. don't know what they are goin for these days, but if you are happy with price... thats all that really matters. i been keepin an eye out for an ol it 175 or 200 myself.
The IT200 was the first bike I ever rode, and I'd love to find a clean one someday. I saw one on E-Bay that was fully restored, and it looked brand new. I should have book marked it to see what it sold for.
I was craving a IT175 a couple of years ago but instead ended up with a 82 Suzuki PE175 (brother had it). My uncle back in the midwest raced IT's for years and did very well on them. He still has one of his early 80's IT's stored in his garage. Saw a IT250 on craigslist last week for $900.00, ad says he was original owner. Looked great in the pictures. Good luck, SP
Those were great bikes! The only things that would get "tired" on them were connecting rod bearings, and the usual suspension saggy-ness of an old dirt bike. The rod bearing issue would only occur with a bike run with an improper oil/gas ratio, or wide open for long periods of time (like in a desert race). A little rattle on the top end during idle is normal...typically goes away when the throttle's opened a little. I currently own an IT 125 (rare bike). It'll go anywhere and do almost anything. If it's in good shape, buy it.
B class enduro champ, district 16, back in the day. Many riders on IT's then. drop the needle a notch. Old motocross forks from other yam models will fit and handle a little better. The best thing is you will be able to touch the ground. bill
"Owner says..." Go see the bike and check back with us. If this goes like it usually goes for me, the bike won't start, will be missing a side-cover, tachometer, and switchgear assembly, will have a caved in fuel tank, and somebody will have (poorly) welded a sissy bar to the rear subframe. - Mark
Are they a bit simular to the newer, but infamous yamaha dt 175? Mines from 2000, and runs great. It's closing up to 30.000km but i did change pistons due to failure around 22.000km.
I am suppose to pick the bike up Monday afternoon. As mentioned it did not want to start so owner is flushing tank and cleaning the carb. Gas that ran out of petcock looked like coffee, I don't think it would light charcoal. So obviously it has to start before he get's the dollars. Bike is almost too clean; absolutely stock with not even a rock ding in the rims and not a single scratch on the exhaust. I think it is an '82 model based on pics. on other sites. It does not have the brace(?) coming up from the swingarm to the subframe like the '81. Also the left sidecover is in two pieces, and btw it is missing the back half--number plate piece. You riders help me find one. Once I bring it home I will try to figure year based on VIN number. Thanks for the input and help.
I think in 82 it had the mono-x suspension versus the monoshock. My brother had one excellent trail bike, wasnt as fast as my 81yz125, but close.
I still have my 81 IT 175-- it has always been a good bike. A previous poster was right about the suspension getting saggy, but it's a 28 year old bike. Good luck with yours-- it's always good to have a couple extra plugs along with you. My IT was premix, not oil injection like the DTs were.
I bought the IT. Turns out according to vin, it must be an '83 model. But man, it pukes oil out the exhaust. I'm not talking about spots on fender but oily residue on rear wheel. First order of business will be to clean all the exhaust and put in fresh premix and go from there. According to manual it is suppose to be 24:1. If any of you have seen this and have a suspicion, clue me in.
I've got two IT-175's, a 1979 and a 1981. The '79 has a Terry Kit in the suspension, which makes the seat as tall or taller than the XR650L I had, but it is very plush. The plastic and frame are beautiful, but the con rod bearing was shot. I found a used bottom end and have it running nicely now. The 1981 was supposed to be a running bike, but when I got there, the tank was cracked, as were the tires and tubes. The side panels were cut down at the back and there were large nuts for buddy pegs crudely welded to the frame. I gave $250 for it, bought tubes, tires and a tank for it. I found reproduction side panels on ebay (DC Plastics) for $60, but I have yet to buy them. I cleaned the carb and got it running. The kicker is quirky and likes the have the bike leaned to the left to engage it for starting. The '81 through '83 models use the 1980 non-water cooled ZY125 bottom end with the right hand chain drive. They are a little tricky to find parts for and as a result, I have a few bottoms for spares now. Most of the old IT's had their cases damaged at some point from a thrown chain. This again makes good spares hard to find. Gas tanks and plastics are available, as are seat covers and suspension parts. NOS parts can also be found through most Yammi dealers as well. -Joe
All IT's drul oil. How bad depends on oil brand and mix ratio. 24-1 mix is for generic 2 smoke. Use a good brand of motorcycle Premix and a ratio rite measuring cup. I used Yamalub R at 36 to 1 on a IT490, a IT250, and a trio of IT175's
+1, Sounds like the owner had too rich of a ratio in it or possibly some cheap wallmart 2 stroke oil. Another issue that can cause similar symptom is a RH crank seal going out, not uncommon with the bike's age and an easy fix. In fact I'd swap both crank seals out for piece-of-mind. Some of the ITs suffered from the steel insert in the case (that holds the main bearing) loosening up in the alum. It tended to wallow out the surrounding alum sometimes causing a lean cond (left) or rich (right) as they sucked in air or oil, symptoms were similar to a crank seal going out. ITs were excellent woods bikes, I had a '79 that I rode Hare Scrambles fairly successfully on. If I came across a decent example I'd buy it in a second.
Those really are great bikes. I had 2 1982 IT175's, and a 1983 DT175. Loved them all. Still have a '81, bike-in-a-box, if anyone needs spare parts. The motor/trans is completely dissassembled.
I know this is an old thread but is there anyone that can give me some advice on tuning the carbs on my 81 IT175. Bike wasnt running when I got it but after cleaning the carbs I can get the thing to idle in the second or third kick. The problem is that if I roll on the throttle the engine just bogs down and almost dies or almost dies and then screams through the RPMs. I assumed it was running way to rich so I dropped the main to #190 but that hasnt helped. I also confirmed that the pilot jet was clean but am not sure where to go from here.<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o> </o> There are two screw knobs on the side of the carb. What are the default adjustments on them and what does each one do?<o></o>
Loose the black font, I'm too old to see the regular font let along the stealth black color The screw toward the middle on the carb body is idle, the one toward the rear is the air acrew and effects idle mixture up to about 1/8th throttle. Often it's passages gets clogged along with/or the pilot jet passages and/or the PJ itself. Clean all those out well removing the air screw and pilot jet (small jet next to the larger hex jet) and set the air screw for 1.5 turns out from lightly seated when going back together. That will get you close. Adjust the idle for about 800 rpms (guestimate) then when it's idling well adjust the (rear) air screw for best off idle response opening the throttle quickly. It should end up near the 1.5 turns out, if it ends up too far out the pilot jet is too large and too far in (liss than 3/4 turn the PJ is too small.
1982 It 175 was my 1st bike, loved that thing. I remember pulling the spark arrester screen mesh in the expansion pipe out for added exhaust flow.
