Epic ride through Dolomites and Alps

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by John Harden, Feb 9, 2011.

  1. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Its a Cannon, Powershot A620. Pretty old camera with 7.1MP. I like it cause it uses AA batteries which seem to last forever and it really does take great pics.
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  2. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    I think I did in fact hit Passo Giau. There were a few passes where the shops were closed and/or didn't have stickers available for sale. I have most of them, but that may have been one I missed.

    You're very lucky to live only 3 hours from there!!!!!
    #22
  3. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    This has been a long day and its time to head back to Corvara. I wound up driving further and further South East, down and out of the mountains to where the roads were flat, curvy and fun. Without much other traffic, I was able to spin it up and really tear through he curves. It was sort of Zen like and I kept on riding and riding.

    At one point I stopped and looked at my map and realized I had gone so far East/South-East that I was only about 50 kilometers from Venice!!!

    Still, it was time to head back. This is my last day in Italy. Tomorrow, it is off to Switzerland to see the Alps!!!!

    Before I leave, let's see some more scenery from the beautiful Dolomite mountains in Northern Italy!!!! These were taken the last part of this day on the 21st.



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    I don't know how common it is to see teepee's in Northern Italy, but these folks had some nice ones. The view they have is even better!!!!!




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    I bet the guy with the parachute has an even better view!!!!


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    Back in Corvara. Shops are closed, so I'll do some quick shopping in the morning before I head out.
    Last pic of the town and view before I leave.

    It's been a great place to stay and see the sights!!!



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    It is hard to express how wonderful Northern Italy has been!! The people have been wonderful. Hotel Posta Zirm was beautiful and served incredibly good food!! The hotel service was spot on.

    Corvara is a very small town, which was to my liking. I don't think I could have picked a better, central starting point for my excursions.

    If you are ever in the Dolomites, make sure you pay a visit to Corvara in Badia!!!!
    #23
  4. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Log book says I slept over 9 hours last night. Must have felt good. I was up at 8, had a very quick breakfast at the hotel and decided to get some quick shopping in before leaving town. Bought a few things for my wife and kids, then headed out.

    Don't think I mentioned it, but my poor wife is at home with my 3 year old son and our infant daughter while I'm off on this trip. She's the best, so I need to pick up something nice for her.

    Time to get on the road.

    My destination is Andermatt, Switzerland. Andermatt is to the Alps, what Corvara and Cortina are to the Dolomistes. It's locaton, serves as a great central "camp" or a jumping off point for day long rides out into the surrounding mountains. I'm looking forward to it!!!!!

    I'm headed West, North/West on the SR234.

    I'm a real estate/construction guy and not much of a writer, so I'll let the Dolomites and Alps speak for me.



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    Don't know who these folks are but they look awful cold hugging that big G. Yes, that's snow on the ground around them. It was cold last night.


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    Not sure if this is a real castle or not, but it is absolutely huge and very cool looking.

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    This is a great shot of the typical "highway" or main road through the valleys. Hardly a freeway by American standards, but given how little traffic they get, it is perfect for their needs and a heck of a lot more personal.

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    Agriculture is a big part of the lives of these folks. With all the water run off from the higher elevations, it shouldn't be a surprise. What was surprising was how beautifully lush everything is, even in late September. The plants, crops, and even flowers are all well adapted to the altitude and weather conditions. They are adapted to make the most of the brief summers.




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    The weather has been beautiful. Not too cold and the high puffy clouds make for great photos. I was shocked at how lush and green everything was, despite the cold weather. At night the temperature drops down below freezing.



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    #24
  5. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    After the first day or two, I noticed that I wasn't writing all that much in my log book, so I re-doubled my efforts and attempted to write something every time I pulled over and shut off the bike, and definitely at lunch and rest breaks.

    As a result, even now 18 months later, I can still give you a good ride report.

    Had lunch in a very small town called Schulderns.

    Made my way over to SR24 and 28, then Karen (GPS voice), forever whispering in my earphones interruped Pink Floyd to tell me to turn right and prepare to board a ferry.....:huh

    I reached up and checked the GPS and there wasn't a meaingful body of water within 50 miles of me. Nevertheless, she was insistent and I had learned never to doubt the women in my life, so I motored on.

    A little ways up the road, I came to a toll booth. The sign showed a special rate for motorcycles to board, yet the lady asked me if I was sure I wanted to go aboard on the bike. I said, "yes", paid my money and drove up the road to get in line.
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    Didn't take long to figure out that this "Ferry" was a rail road train. Sure enough, you had to ride out onto a platform, then ride out onto flat rail road cars. This was going to be interesting....
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    After we got settled, the train began to slowly move. I quickly figured out that the safest way to do this was to put the bike in gear, kill the engine and put it on the side stand, basically locking it in place.

    The train entered a very narrow tunnel that passed through the mountain range. I imagine it saved everyone an hour or two driving high mountain roads. It was a VERY long tunnel. Trip must have taken 20 minutes or so and my log book says that based on the approximate speed of the train I figured it be a 8+ kilometer underground tunnel. Pretty wild ride. Pitch black and the large openings in the side "guard rails" were only about 3 feet off the deck. I stayed on the bike, but of course took a photo over the back of my head. Guy behind me is reading the paper.
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    Finally, we pulled into the station and disembarked from our ferry. Pretty cool ride.
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    Time to get moving again and on to Switzerland.
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    Very beautiful country and it is easy to feel the "Swiss" way of doing things. Everything just seems to be more orderly. Still, that doesn't mean that everything doesn't come to a stop for a herd of cows crossing the road.
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    Time to get a moving. It's still a long way to Andermatt, and it is getting colder.
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    #25
  6. panzerrocket

    panzerrocket Been here awhile

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    Hi John. I like this :thumb
    Enjoying your ride- keep it coming!
    #26
  7. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Sorry for the slight delay.

    Its been a busy week here with my 2 and 5 year old.

    Never fear!!! My log book is right here and I'm prepared to pick up where I left off.

    The best is yet to come with my trip through Switzerland!!!!!!
    #27
  8. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    This was going to be a long day. I didn't help that I stopped frequently to take photos of the country side.

    In case you hadn't picked up on this through the trip report, I don't much care for riding in groups, or going on guided tours. Sure, they have their place, but I just don't like schedules or pre-prepared events. My preference is to be with my wife and kids or friends. Unfortunately, that just wasn't in the cards for this trip.

    So, we get to enjoy this trip together!!! Here's a few more for your viewing pleasure!!

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    Kilometers are starting to rack up on my brand new rental bike!!!!!!


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    Okay, that was a long ride!!!! Its getting late in the day, and while the sun is still out, the temperature is dropping rapidly.

    To reach Andermatt, you must pass over an 8000' peak. Needless to say, there was almost no traffic as I purred on through.... Yes, it was very brisk, but it was also absolutely beautiful!!!!

    As you can see from the photos, it was totally socked in at higher altitudes. Even with no traffic on the mountain, I was reduced to 2nd gear for quite a lot of it. As a result, it took quite a while to climb up and over the mountain range.


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    Arrival at Andermatt!!!!!
    #28
  9. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Andermatt, in case you weren't aware is a central hub for motorcycle exploration of the Swiss Alps.

    Hotel Monopol Metropol is one of the standby's for motorcycle riders. This makes perfect sense as Andermatt is a very small town of only a few thousand people and the Metropol sits right on the main traffic circle in town, providing easy access to the adjacent mountain passes.

    Very nice looking hotel, isn't it?!?!?!?

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    Of course a river runs through it!!!!


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    Excellent example of a very "Swiss" bit of architecture.



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    Very nice local place on the square. We'll be re-visiting this in a short while......



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    Night time in Andermatt


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    #29
  10. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Log book says I had 2 beers in one of the small local bars last night. There were only 4-5 other patrons and the bartender spoke very little English. It was a good night.

    Up early the next morning, had a quick breakfast at the hotel and it was off on the road.

    Andermatt is fairly high up in the Alps, so at 8 AM, it is pretty cold.

    Well, actually, it is just below freezing F., so the going was a bit slow.

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    Even at these altitudes, the water run-off is still evident. It is also very beautiful!!!!!


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    Getting close to the top of the first pass out of Andermatt!!!!


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    The higher I go, the colder it get's and the fog is still hours away from lifting.


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    Yes, it is both high and cold!!!!!! :eek1


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    If you're not familiar with what glacier movement will do to solid rock over a generation or so, take a look at this road side mountain face. Glacial action is slow, unstoppable and leaves very definite signs when it has passed by a particular area. Very cool!!!!


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    #30
  11. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Yes, it is cold, but the temperature isn't nearly as bad as you might think!!! I'm a total sissy when it comes to being cold. Here in SoCal, when the winter temps drop to less than 50F, I break out the heated gloves.

    Big differnece between home and the Alps is speed. At home, I'm buzzing along at 75+ MPH on the freeway. At altutiude in Switzerland, I was MAYBE averaging 30 MPH.

    Very stark difference in the comfort level!!!

    In any event, here's my very lonely bike parked at the top of Furka Pass!!!!

    Only other people I saw up there was a local couple who offered to take my pic!!

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    Did I mention it is cold up here?!?!?


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    Of course, the big attraction of this place to motorcyclists is the twisty mountain roads that seem to go on forever.......



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    #31
  12. John Harden

    John Harden Commuting Adventurer

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    Headed to bed soon. I'll write and post more when I can.

    My goal is to memorialize the trip for myself and as a learning tool for my young son.

    Not really sure if anyone is following, as I haven't been paying any attention. If so, great!! If not, that's okay too.

    For anyone actually watching, I hope you enjoy the photos!!!

    I most certainly enjoyed taking them!!!! :clap
    #32
  13. AlpineGuerrilla

    AlpineGuerrilla Been here awhile

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    Yep, enjoying it very much. Thank you man. :clap
    Kudos to you for riding the alps in late September. It's starting to get really cold on the passes, but the colours of fall are worth it. Plus, as you mentioned, the roads tend to be very lonely. Most of the passes were already closed by mid September in 2010 due to first snow fall, so you're quite lucky the passes were still open.

    And to be a smart ass: The Alps are the whole mountain range stretching from the french riviera through Switzerland, Austria and Italy to Slovenia. The Dolomites are a part of the Alps. :deal
    #33