so there's no way all the bits would fit inside a gutted battery?? that heatsink is massive......:huh
No unfortunately there is no way it would fit in a space the size of a battery with the design I have. The heat sink will probably be able to be smaller but my plan is to encapsulate the whole lot in epoxy for protection and mount it elsewhere on the bike.
What voltage out do you need. You can buy switch mode regulators now that dont need heatsinks and are a lot more efficient. They would be much smaller too, as they use surface mount stuff... IF there is enough interested, I could knock up a small powersupply that should be able to fit in a battery space. Problem is to get circuit boards made you would need a few dozen people interested first otherwise its just to expensive.
Dead simple, but reliable. 5 watt UHF, with a dud battery hollowed out and 12 volt connection fitted. Power unit is in the fairing.
and you haven't had any issues with it being fed 12VDC instead of 7.4?? Id be worried about frying the radio.....
Nope. The same setup was on my 1100GS for a few years and quite a few thousand kilometres with no probs at all. Taken last year.
You are way above me, the limit of my electrickery ability is just a kit from Jaycar.. Is there not a possibility of RF interferance from the switch? Maybe this would work? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=XC4258
I couldn't imagine putting up to 14.5V into the radio either. It reads to me that the step down converter is hidden under the fairing. Update: The Uniden to Sena cable received was the correct part. There is a manufacturing defect with threads missing from the collar.
Update: The Uniden to Sena cable received was the correct part. There is a manufacturing defect with threads missing from the collar.[/QUOTE] I must have got a different batch as mine is threaded.
David, can you confirm this please, does the radio run directly from the "12"VDC or have you got some kind of step down transformer "under the fairing" thanks g
I have refrained from commenting on the thread as I dont want to be seen as putting down other products, however just to save some heartache. The UH-076/8 will generally not be happy run off anything over about 9V, so YES you do need to sort a power supply to "convert" bike power down. IF you do do this then be aware if using a system (StarCom1, Autocom etc) you WILL LIKELY get earth loop noise, a lovely audible tacho , not every time but it happens lots. MOST handheld's are now built to a price rather than a quality , so running off things other than its own battery they tend to either RX OK and TX like shit, or TX OK and RX like shit, so be prepared. The best solution is to leave the battery in place and charge/power it as the battery in situ acts like a big filter. A 9V TO220 case volt reg (LM7809 for example) is sufficient, with capacitors on both input and output (standard design practice) and current limited on the output too wont need a heatsink and will fit in a matchbox (If people remember what one is ). Have fun experimenting, dont be too pissed off when things dont work well, and good luck with it all
My UHF set up does indeed have a regulator that lowers the wattage; this is commonly available from places like Jaycar. When I said that it runs off 12 volt, I should have said that it runs off bike power and not batteries. Sorry that I misled youse.
That's exactly what I am talking about. Switching frequency is usually just above audible frequencies, so no RF interference. Might be some harmonics, but unlikely to be an issue. At 7V output should probably do the job you want too. I was not going to suggest, but I also reckon running direct from 12V would probably be ok, but this all hinges on what sort of regulation is used in the radio. If linear, could be a problem. But most stuff these days uses switching regulators because they are small, cheap and efficient. I would not recommend anyone trying it themselves, but I am certainly going to have a crack with my wireless pacific radio when I have a chance. Just took another look at that jacycar switching regulator board, the output voltage can be changed by adjusting the value of a single resistor (R2 for the techo's).
Im new to ADV (forum & riding) & Iv got a cheap but trustie hand held radio(puxing 777) with a speaker mic that Iv used for trail riding, but now Im thinking a ear piece is the way to go. My question is: Whats the best ear piece design? Iv noticed differant set ups on egay. Theres an air tube http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250810454336?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 & a 2 in1 vib mic built into in the ear piece http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110890439881?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 cheers in advance Tomack
i've run the puxing 888 and 2 years still going strong. i've used that 2 in 1 vibe mic and it works ok. the PTT button wraps nicely around mirror mount within reach of your thumb. For trial riding it might get a bit hard to hear through the mic when ya get going. I've soldered a plug inbetween but still i find any corded mic combo a pain in the...
