Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Any old grease will work. I use whatever is handy at the time and have not had any filters fall apart yet.

There is also MC Performance. Pretty sure the owner is a member on here.
http://www.mcperformance.com.au/index.php/new-products/dr650
No experience with them, I'm using a GSXR can.

Having read a few of your ride reports it seems you do some long days on the bike as I do. I couldn't do that with a Staintune pipe...

AFAIK Barretts are repackable, but I could be wrong, I have been before, once I think, or maybe twice if SWMBO is right

Thanks.

Can anyone confirm whether Shell helix HX7 10w-40 for "diesel and petrol engines" is safe for the DR650?

It's api sn/cf,acea a3/b3, b3/b4, JASO SG+ certified.

Going to get a few bottles from supercrap on special for my cruiser and thought if its safe for the clutch I will grab an extra bottle..

Hey BergDonk, I had a chat to Jason about that and he said that the Barretts come with both fibreglass and stainless steel wool, unlike the other DR pipes on the market.

As the race pipes (FMF DG etc) are fibreglass they need to be repacked regularly, whereas the Staintune is only stainless steel wool so doesn't need to be repacked but apparently give the exhaust note a more tinny noise. The idea of the Barrett is that it sits in the middle (fibreglass and stainless steel), with the stainless steel meaning it doesn't really need to be repacked, but the fibreglass taking the harsh edge off the exhaust note.

It shouldn't need to be repacked really, but on the off chance it needs to you just drill outs the rivets on the endcap and repack it.

Obviously this may be somewhat bias information, since I heard it from the owner and manufacturer, but he was a knowledgeable and nice bloke and robmoto (a current Barrett owner) backs up what Jason said, such as not getting louder over time or needing a repack. Good to know.

I'm still tossing up between thisand the GSXR pipe, but thought this might be of interest to other DR owners with the same questions.

If that is the case, it should be possible to pack another pipe with a mix of steel/glass for longer intervals between repacking.

I have DG pipe packed with coarse steel wool. It is a lot quieter than the glass packing but i have used the steel to block the exhaust from blowing straight through the pipe. The spark arrestor keeps it in check. It has been good for me for about 18 months. If it is too loud easy to fix, just put more steel inside.No corrosion or deterioration so far. Maybe not "professional" but much cheaper. Complete DG pipe was delivered from US for about $230 total + $20 for steel wool (basically kitchen scourers)

On the Megacycle muffler that I used to have on my DR, I packed it with stainless wool which lasted about 20,000 kms each time. I've since moved to the GSXR 041 can. My understanding/assumption was/is that Staintunes are mechanically baffled, but maybe not, dunno.

Staintune are a perforated baffle tube like all other mufflers but with stainless steel wool instead of fibreglass. All welded together and never need repacking.

My new FMF Q4 lasted one day of approx 500 km's and the muffler needed repacking. Used genuine FMF repack kit and the next ride up the beach burnt that out as well. Replaced with stainless steel scouring pads (like you use in the sink) and job done all fixed and sorted.

Cheers - Ron

What happened to your GSXR muffler? Any power loss with the stainless mesh packing??

Hello Gordon,

GSXR muffler is safe and sound in the back of the shed. Works a treat but fitted an Ti Akrapovic which is a bit lighter, is a little less restrictive so goes a bit harder and it looks trick as!!

The FMF Q4 is advertised as having "intricate chambers" for noise control. On dis-assembly it is merely a welch plug welded half way along the perforated baffle tube. The gas hits the plug and is forced out into the muffler packing material. Does indeed quieten the bike down but where the gas goes around the plug it just burns out the muffler pack in no time. A genuinely useless technique and waste of time and money. I removed the plug and welded in place semi circular flutes thus creating a mechanical baffle and then used the stainless steel wool instead of fiberglass. Went better than standard Q4 and should never need repacking.

See you Sunday. Cheers - Ron

Your bike has been known to make other DR riders cry!! Akro' looks excellent!!

Hi Guys

3 of us are heading from Sydney across the center to the OCR late July. We intend riding there and back via the dirt from Bourke.

I have a 03 DR 650 Suspension, motor, clutch, tyres are all done. The bike has been set up for this type of riding for a long time.

I am living in Singapore at the moment and will have 3 days before the ride to load, balance and make small adjutments to the bike.

I have a couple of questions.

We are not planning night riding but the lights will be important when day riding to allow the person in front to know im still there somewhere behind the dust cloud.

It has been suggested that an LED bulb would be a good ad to increase brightness. Any experience is it simple plug an play? (Not interested in playing with HIDs)

The other is these tool tubes that are advertised on ebay. Again because they are advertised as pretty much plug and play. looking to get the weight down as often as possible. Have soft luggage racks with 7.5 litre Rotor packs either side.

Thanks in advance for help.

Fred

Im selling my New DR790 kit. See Aussie flea market #133 for details

Have a look at this thread, new product on the market. Seems to tick the boxes your concerned about. For what it is, not badly priced and very easy to install. Operates as normal and keeps the low beam and high beam.

Cheers Richo
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=948701

Fred this is what I did to solve this - you could wire the spot, if you like, so that it can be switched independently of the high been and run it as required.

Personally I'd suggest radios rather than lights because they work in dust whereas someone in front may have to take away too much concentration to identify another rider behind when the dust is really bad and they are moving at a reasonable pace - YMMV.

As for the tool tube I bought this and while it's a little heavy I would not want anything else.

for a tool tube, I got some storm-water pipe with an end-cap and a screw-cap. It's as long as you want, cheap, lightweight and fugly. Being so long, I made a flat "ladle" whick is in-place prior to filling the tube with whatever you like ... just pull the ladle and all contents come with it.




.Good luck and enjoy the trip.

Good info, I've been talking with the guy with the LED and have ordered one

Re:
Personally I'd suggest radios rather than lights because they work in dust whereas someone in front may have to take away too much concentration to identify another rider behind when the dust is really bad and they are moving at a reasonable pace - YMMV.

We do have radios, but
We're happy to ride together not sure we want to talk to each other all day tho


The tool tube is wicked darn ugly but effective

Thanks shane,
I will definitely make an effort to be there, that looks like a sensational weekend. Might even take a couple mates :) if you see a dr650 with a bbq rack that will probably be me... assuming I can find and purchase one by then!

Hi French Horn,

Saw the pictures of your DR650 and had to laugh. Why? Well look at the pictures of my DR800 on the bottom os this link: http://sanityontwowheels.blogspot.com.au/p/my-bikes-widowmaker.html

Here's one of the pictures. My tool tubes are shorter, but I have one on each side and I believe I've used the nextsize down of the Super Cheap Auto case, but I can see the parallels. Love your work.