After searching around, this is what I decided on for a gasket sealer. Locktight also sells a similar kit with a primer ,but the primer is for larger clearances and is unnecessary for this application. I made the decision to install the seals in the cases before hand. The depth of the rear output shaft seal is critical as their is a oil hole that could be covered if its driven in a few mm too far. Installing the seals first means that caution must be taken when heating the cases that the seal is not directly exposed to the blast of the heat gun. I used sockets as a shield. I also covered all the splines with a plastic wrap to protect the seals during assembly. I used gear oil sparingly.
<BR> What am I looking at here? Is this a spherical head pin? Used to drift the case halves apart? If so, next time (you may rebuild one for a friend) put a inverted cone shape on the drift. Use a piece of cold-rolled rod the diameter you want and face drill it for the inverted cone shape. And radius the circumference of the face on a stone wheel. - Jim<BR><BR>
Thanks. The problem wan not being able to use the proper size pin due to having to cock it in the bore because part of the trans case is in the way. This resulted in the punch nicking the case, visible at the top of the pin. Was a Harbor Freight punch by the way.. Ill apply the appropriate kink next time.
The only way I could think of to measure the 6 speeds bores is with adjustable mock transmission shafts that could be used in conjunction with plasiguage to arrive at the ideal number. The manual calls for no more than .002 deviation from a end play value it dose not give. With no current means of manufacturing some homemade mock shafts that would be accurate at those tolerances, I decided that if the bearings are exactly the same as what came out , then that is my better bet then to base shim size on inaccurate information.
Wish I had your skills/cojones. I was feeling mighty fine about swapping a good used transmission out for the one that had bad input shaft splines in my '02 GS 'til I read your thread. Wish I had the skills to crack the box and replace the input shaft. Reading your thread it seems so doable.
With the assembled transmission shafts still in the freezer , I begin to heat the front case with 2 heat guns. Getting all three shafts plus one shift fork into case all at once is a little tricky. The laser thermometer is worth it's weight to avoid guessing if your ready to try and install the shafts. The case must be hot enough for the bearings to freely slide home. I neglected to take pictures because I wanted to get the transmission assembled and the cases torqued as quickly as possible to take advantage of the rapidly warming transmission shafts. With the seals already in place , I want to use as little heat as possible so as to not damage them. When the shafts and shifting mechanism are installed ,I apply the Locktight 515 to the front case. I heat the rear case and slide it home paying attention that the seals are started properly. Torque the case bolts in a crisscross manner and drive home the two drift pins last. I let the gasket sealer set before filling the transmission with gear oil. [/IMG]
I coat the splines with Honda molly 60 a little more generously then the first spline lube because the splines looked dry again after only 20,000 miles. I put a dot of silicone to make it essayer to confirm I have the Driveshaft phased properly.
Make sure the ends of the retaining ring for the paralever boot are in the horizontal axis to avoid interference.
I replaced the rear paralever pivot bearings that were overdue for replacement. The front were still good. I cheated and used blue locktight for the stationary pivot , and nothing on the adjustment side to facilitate adjustment later if needed. The small dot of paint on the pivot and adjustment bolts give me a visual confirmation that nothing is loose.
I debated on blowing $100.00 to replace a perfectly good clutch slave cylinder. That little bearing has seen about a bazillion revolutions, Hmmm. Doing some preventive maintenance , I decide to clean up some of the rust on the clutch line where it commonly rusts. Well I got a little ham fisted with the Harbor Freight air angle grinder and nicked the case, oops. $$$
First ride and the bike's shift action is really smooth. I put in a new indent arm and spring because they cost under $20.00 for the pair. I did detect the slightest unhappiness with the old one when turning the roller under pressure. Between that and the new splines with fresh lube , shifting seems better then before.When I first rode this bike , I thought the clutch action was a little grabby. After a while it worked very good. I was worried the new clutch plate might be grabby until broken in. That isn't the case as right out of the box the clutch has very good feel without a hint of gabbiness. I also made a switch to synthetic dot 4 in the clutch. Putting it in the brakes next.So only a few hundred miles so far , but everything is dry and sounding good.
Thank you and good night??? A summary. The biggest issue with this job was the wait for parts. About 3 weeks. Partially my fault for not ordering everything the first time. I did not expect to have to replace the thrust block on the input shaft. +3 weeks. Screwed up the clutch line , my fault. + 3 weeks. Being that the weather was still really lousy here, it was not a big deal but if it had been prime riding season... This bearing failure might have cost a additional $12,000 for a KTM 950 to hold me over until the parts came in. In the end , I am assuming the failure stemmed from the bearing using up all it's lifetime lubricant.
