Hi Guys does anybody know what size this torx is? Its inside the Right Hand Switch and seems to hold the cover onto the rest of the switch. Does any one know if you can get the switch apart because the ABS Button and the kill switch will not move. This bike has been in an accident. Cheers
Yes, you can get the switch apart, but you must be patient and used to fine wiring jobs. And, you should own a set of electronics-grade small Torx tools. And not go into panic mode then suddenly a million little parts spill out (DAMHIK). The ABS button is simply a cap on top of a rubber boot covering the actual switch. Kill switch rotates, but the principle is similar. The fact that these are jammed implies that the whole housing may be deformed, possibly not repairable. You can try opening it, but I'd start looking at replacement parts; try Beemer Boneyar, Re-Psycle, eBay.
I just disassembled my 12GS bar end switch housing and it required a T10 for four little tiny screws. I think that was the first time that I ever used it.
If you're going to be serious about mechanic--ing, you'll own tools in sets rather than just a few individual sizes.
The problem I've found is I had a bunch of different sets of every tool imaginable, and when I got my Beemer I quickly realized that almost nothing I had fit anything on the bike. What is up with those krauts? For example, 3 of the 4 fasteners that hold the skid plate on are different, and they are those weird male Torx head bolts that no one has in their toolbox (until they start working on bmws)
Here's a complete kit and the price is excellent http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5900A-Pie...d=1358187558&sr=8-1&keywords=otc+torx+bit+set
Just get a folding torx key set (looks like a Swiss army knife). I think I bought mine at the Home Despot for less than $10.
Just be aware that often the cheap sets don't have a full range. I've got a jewellers type set of tiny sizes in torx, philips, flat, allen etc, then 2 torx sets, one of bits, another of sockets (actually a set of E as well, female torx) but that doesn't cover the massive T55 for the handguards, so I've got an individual bit for that... If you don't have the suitable tool for a job, then clearly you need more tools!
Once again, you will need a complete set. Been through the changes through the years a few times. Add in many aftermarket parts still use hex and the fun continues. BTW, I think TORX are much more fragile than hex. As my father would say - industrial sabotage!!
Torx fasteners are quite advantageous, especially during manufacture. They do not cam-out as easily, especially with a mis-aligned power driver, and allow a higher, controlled torque to be applied with great precision. Most modern vehicles (cars and bikes) use them. I do understand your pain, having to progress over the years from cheesy Philips-head fasteners through hex, to torx. But, any machinery is designed for the most efficient, least time-consuming assembly in factory. I have yet to see a rider/driver who says: I'll gladly pay $2000 extra for a machine that fits my toolbox. Yeah, right... Having the right set of tools for your vehicle is both a requirement and a part of your wrenching experience. Especially since you can buy a set of torx and reverse-torx sockets for about $10 (I just got a spare kit for less than that). By the way, I don't know if you realize that, but "kraut" is highly offensive. It was acceptable during WW-II national sentiments, not anymore. If you hate Germans so much, why are you on a BMW?
T-10. All of my Torx sets came from Harbor Freight. They all work fine, and I have never broken one. You need two sets. One that goes from T20 to T55, and a second set made as bits for a screwdriver from T2-T30. I MIGHT have $20 in my Torx sets. Oh, and HF has the E-Torx as well, needed for the bash plate, handlebars and shifter. Jim
