Oz/ Kiwi Ktm 690 Riders Thread

that's the spirit

I haven't ridden mine for about a month. I've never had one bike cause so many injuries

Came off on bitumen doing @90...luckily no damage to myself or bike that time

Next time broke 3 ribs on the right.

Next time broke 2 ribs on the left.

Last time, highside left me heavily bruised and sore for a month. No damage to bike worth mentioning

Thought about selling it but now looking forward to getting back on it...I think

With all the posts etc on the r/e grearbox ratios,i was wondering are they no good oem for trail work or touring etc running different sprockets.

the bike is good. The gearbox is a little short for constant high speed running. If you gear the bike up to drop the revs on the highway the trail gearing becomes a bit on the high side.

As with any bike, you're always looking for another top gear so I recently replaced the rear 45 with a 40 to try out.

I found that it is now geared up too high particularly in top. Seems like you lose that power in top where you can just roll the throttle at any speed and you now have to change down to 5th too often.

I'll be reverting back to the original 45 . I really don't have too much of an issue with the standard gear ratios as I don't do single track with it, just dirt roads so 1st gear doesn't get a mention

I ran 16:44 gearing for over a year - it worked well for everything but very technical stuff - the problem there is that the bike doesn't just lug well, and doesn't pull well off the bottom - which is ludicrous for a motor of this size and strength - very easy to stall

But 16:44 did feel good on flowing fire trails and gravel roads - I was changing up into 6th at around 100kph - I found that with this gearing you got some spacing out of the gears and could really feel the strong motor

The 'sport' mode was not overcooked and grabby - felt like a little 990

Also got good mileage

Any sort of long-distance work and I'd be going for 16:44 gearing - the 690 SMC I think uses 16:42, and the Duke uses 16:40 - both of which are obviously taller again

I've gone down to 15:46 for some more technical stuff and really don't like it - [one tooth lower than stock 15:45] - the bike just feels like a big fat DRZ400 - and 1st / 2nd are still not really low enough

This made me think:

Is it too stupid to wonder whether the gearset from a 625SXC or 640A would fit in the 690 ... ?

Sprocket is on the opposite side so maybe too different

Good point

Mine runs the stock 15 front, and it's the older less power 654 cube. I rode AusGoFar's newer 690 with a 16 front, and it felt sort of flat, and whilst it pulled it ok it sure had lost is bit of zap compared to mine.
How about just losing two off the rear stock gearing as a compromise?

So the saga continues .....

Had the new throttle body fitted last Thursday under warranty .....

And ... No change !! Still coughs spits splutters and backfires above 4000rpm
Fault code 2 Long 7 Short still flashing, which, by the way is not in your owners manual.

So now waiting on a "Breaker Box" to be sent from WA.
A "breaker box" you ask ?
Apparently a diagnostic tool, so secret, that only the Tech's at KTM Australia have one !

It's been 4 weeks since the problem started,

Not happy Jan ..... !

While waiting for my new air box to turn up, i have had a bit of time to play. I already had evo 1 maps fitted with a modded throttle curve fitted to the bike. The only problem i had was surging between 2500 to 3000rpm, which i have never noticed on the dirt but as i ride to work every day it was annoying. & stalling when accelerating away from a stand still more than i would like. So i added 4% fuel across the board, Then fitted KEVXTX's 02 controller. Fitted the airbox last weekend & rode to work every day, no surging & not one stall. . KEVXTX's 02 controller is worth the money in my opinion. Have played with the throttle curves again, 2 different curves on 1 & 3 & 100% on #2. Riding to work with winter gloves on i didn't like #2. #3 rocks at the moment. Love this bike.

Sounds like the "throw parts at it" method didnt solve the issue so now they are getting a diagnostic tool that they should have had from the beginning. If it starts and idles fine but only breaks uo consistently above 4k i would plug it in to tune ecu and watch...look to see if its fuel or ignition.

The 2008 manual lists this code as "Malfunction in voltage supply circuit of throttle valve control unit."

Don't know what year your bike is, but if it is pre 2014, the codes are likely the same as earlier bikes. Sounds like an electrical problem. Look for problems in the wiring which goes to the throttle valve control motor. Could be frayed insulation some where in that circuit causing an intermittent problem.

Could also be the reg/rec spiking if that hasn't been looked at yet.

Nick.

Sent from a little keyboard using fat fingers......

The breaker box probably checks all the wiring, still convinced it will be a bad wire, either rubbed through or a connector pin gone bad. Fingers crossed they find it with the box.

Andy

Coil wire or spark plug cap is my guess

Does it break down over 4000 when under load or in the shed? If under load, it's normally a lean situation or could simply be a bad plug.

What I'd do is simply spray some"Start Ya Bastard" into the intake when it starts to break down to eliminate whether it's fuel or spark (old school )

History of the problem starts at post 5005 on pg 334.

Bike is a '13, and at time when problem started had 3010 km on it.

Problem is both under load and no load.

A lot of the fault codes have been taken out of the newer manuals, as to why, who knows ? The code can be found in a Duke manual as well, but not the manual for the 2013 R.

In the 2014 690 Enduro owners manual 2 long 7 short is:


Accelerator position sensor circuit fault - accelerator position sensor voltage

I'd second this.
Worth a shot, remove plug cap, unscrew off coil lead, snip about 5-8 mil off the end, check copper wire is nice and fresh, refit cap, and test ride. Can't hurt.