Did he tell the buyer it had a worn top end? Some people, like me, wouldn't know a worn one from a new one. I paid $1500 for mine, and it runs good, but outside that, I am learning as I go. FWIW, I didn't buy his.
Also, if I can't fit the Acerbis tank to my bike that I bought it will be available. It's intended for the 350se, but I didn't know that when I bid on it. I have a dirt model. I am going to have a look, see what I can do for it, but I am not going to be drilling any holes in it obviously. Only need what I paid for it, so if someone needs one, I will probably have one. I replaced my scratched, dirty fender today for a brand new KTM supermoto unit, and it looks nice, very nice IMO.
Have been reading alot about the DR350 and this one I got is not a cherry but runs good. Tell me what you see and any tips. The seat will be my first project....some kind of gel thing...stock?...or is that aftermarket. Thanks in advance for any feedback. I plan on going through it completely this winter. My son is itching to ride it for now.
OK here are some photos of my lead sled First day i got her (show room clean) These were taken 2 days ago -Pro taper factory suzuki bar -Clarke Natural tank -Pingel Fuel valve -Kenda Trak Masters -15-44 gearing -Yamaha front fender -Dual Star Mirror -DR350 Flatslide Carb
It should fit. For instance, I have an IMS tank and it has both the brass inserts to mount on a DR350 as well as the rubber puck pockets to mount on a DR350S/SE. Send a PM to Bike Pilot. I believe he has an Acerbis tank on his DR.
Let me know if you want to sell it, I bought one but it's on a 3 week back order. By the way that fender does look really nice. Did it mount up nicely? Could you give me the part number? I'm wanting to replace my front and rear. Thanks!
Unfortunately, whereas IMS was clever about it and made one tank that fits both frame styles, Acerbis was not, and there is no facility for mounting the front. I may keep it around to use on long road trips though, since during those trips I am less likely to do much tough trails. I think. While it mounts fine on the rear points, there is nothing on the front outside of the slots that the pucks would slide into. Coincidentally, these are in the exact location that part of the engine mount bolts are, so something could be fabbed, but I don't have the equipment do do that. However, since it mounts fine on the back of the tank, I can drape a piece of mountain bike tire over the frame up front and it will friction fit well enough for road use. Thing is, a new one costs hundreds of dollars, but I only paid $127 for this. I don't need the large capacity for scooting around town, or riding dirt, for the most part. Just on long trips. The bike is kind of a dog for long trips, but it's all I have.
Bama, it mounted up easily, just had to drill two new holes for the rear mounts, and adjust the position slightly of the front mounts. I also cut off some posts that were probably intended for the headlight kit on the KTM to sit on. I bought it here, I know it shows the orange unit, but they really shipped the white one, as it says. I wish they had the 990 turn signals, as I would have bought some of them as well. https://www.ktm-parts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=K&Product_Code=5030801020020&Category_Code= Also, there is a coupon floating around for some percentage off, I think it gives you a discount if you register at their site, and maybe one from thumpertalk as well, but I might be wrong about that one.
Nice! Looks like a great replacement for my own scratched & dirty fender. And thanks for posting the install details. Mike
Cant have too much nice stuff you know, this is an older bike after all. Had to balance it out a bit. Nice fender on front, godawful rack on back. Made out of entirely castoff bits of junk found by yours truly. A bit of VW, a bit of discarded street sign, and some aluminum flat stock I found in the road a few months ago. Knew it would come in handy. This will last until I can't stand it anymore and get a proper rack.
Made my decision, went and picked up my DR today and couldnt be happier with it. a bit dirty but solid as a rock. going to give it a good pressure wash tomarow and put up pics
anyone commute daily on there DR for long distances? i have a 50 mile each way commute to work, mostly freeway. i might try to find a 38 tooth rear as well.
A few pages back I posted about my pumper carb issues and have since rebuilt the carb, but still am having overflow issues from the float bowl. I think the float bowl plunger is getting stuck in the float bowl; would this cause the overflow problem? Is there a stiffer spring somewhere that will solve my problem (if this is the problem)? Any other ideas to what could be causing gas to pour out the bottom of my float bowl (already bought a new screw so that's not it)? I leave for the Six Days of Michigan in a few days and need to get this sorted before going :eek1
more problems rebuilding our motor: we took it apart so long ago we cant remember what bolts go where putting the cylinder head cover back on. if anybody has some advice or detailed pictures of what they look like at least it would be super helpfull. to clarify: the head went on fine, its the cover that contains the lifters that we're having problems with.
A few pages back I posted about my pumper carb issues and have since rebuilt the carb, but still am having overflow issues from the float bowl Hey I had similar issues with my cv carb. The problem was the seat that the float needle seats in. On the cv carb the float needle seats is a brass plug that is a press fit. When I removed it I noticed it had an o-ring. As a temp fix I removed the o-ring and wrapped light sewing thread around the recess it sits in then put the o-ring back in place, this forced the o-ring out and fixed the problem. Two days later I picked up a 2$ o-ring to fix the problem for good. Not sure how how the pumper carb is set up but it may be worth a look. John p.s the float needle should shut off gas to the carb when it is closed, a poor fitting o-ring was allowing gas to leak thru.
OK, I've got some random o-rings, plunger, spring and new float coming. Hopefully the combination of all of these will make the carb work as new. As a back up the fellow at Sudco did mention that they have complete carbs in stock and ready for next day ship . . . . $350 :eek1
I just bought a dirt model 94 dr. It has aready been street titled. It sounds good but has a broken clutch cable. It has a new top end in the motor, supertrap exhaust, and a large tank. It looks rough and has a broken rear fender, but l like rough. that means i won't feel bad when it gets beat on. This is just going to be my play bike, so i couldn't pass up the price tag. I 've only read the first 35 pages of this thread so forgive me if this has been covered already. Is there a cheap way to make this bike a budget supermoto. I'll post pics soon.
