Ural final drive bolts sheared.

Well a little after a week of ownership and just a few rides my first major failure.

I am guessing the bolts were not tight enough and rattled loose. Sitting here waiting on the tow truck now thankful that I have AAA Plus. Only 2400 KMs on the bike.

Which year?


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2015 cT

Loaded up

Shoulda bought a Tourist

Seriously, that sucks. Hard to believe a rider couldn't feel that coming loose. Did the bolts shear off, or are they just MIA?

PMR

PS - Going out to the shop now to check mine before I deliver it to Jerseybiker.
PSS - better get a phone charger to carry when you ride.

Probably a batch of low metal quality bolts or poor heat treat ... or both.

Soldier on ... it's part and parcel of the miles of smiles experience.

Better days ahead and all the best with your new sidecar.

There was a bit of shudder when taking off from a dead stop that seemed to mostly go away once I adjusted the clutch cable (I think it had stretched a bit)

No clanking, grinding, or any other warning.

I don't think your Tourist has the same design as the older ones, which I believe were part of the hub, not bolted on.

Wth?
:huh
That sucks! The photo looks like the bolts are missing since the holes are empty. Did they shear or drop out? How many bolts are there holding the FD?

Really sorry, was hoping/expecting there would be many miles of trouble free riding.

Can you just install new bolts or did anything break?

Damn Urals.......a real love/hate relationship.


Piney, check that rig for me!

You didn't say anything about wanting the bolts, they're "extra" LOL

No worries, I'll get it fixed myself or try and get warranty work done on it.

There are 6 mounting holes, two sheared, three wallowed out a bit, and the last looks clean.

I won't know all the damage until I drop the rear wheel, which won't be tonight.

Sucks, as we were planning a trip to north Alabama for the weekend and I was going to take this bike.

Well, it would have sucked even worse if it had let go in northern Alabama. Or on the highway with lots of traffic. At night. During a heavy rain. Should be an easy fix, but if there's any damage to the FD, you've got a warranty to help you out. The wheel and FD come off in 5 minutes. Post a pic when you get it apart.

Well I couldn't wait, so I got out the manual and took off the rear wheel.

First thing that concerned me was the worn out rear brake pads. Only 2480km




Yikes!


As I got the wheel off, I can now clearly see that all of the bolts have sheared.




Minimum damarge to the FD


Everything is rusty for such a new bike

Could you have riding about w/ the rear brakes dragging ?

Are both pads that thin ?

Both pads were similar in thickness. I felt no drag and with the parking brake off, I could easily with one hand, push the rig around the garage with no problem. No sounds or squeaking.

Meh, brakes are over rated. Mine were adjusted too close when I got the bike, maybe a little extra drag but what I noticed was how warm the FD got after riding. IDK if the cT is different, but the brake pedal may be positioned such that it's too easy to exert pressure on it unintentionally while going down the road, creating drag. I'm guessing the brakes are worn that much because the bike spent the early months of its life in the mountains. But if that was the case I'd expect your front pads to be the same. I picked up a set of shoes and pads on eBay, assuming mine would be shot when I checked, but my originals looked almost new. Brakes almost never get used down here in Florida, especially if one stays out of traffic and plans his stops, the rigs slow down pretty quick. I'd make sure you get the brakes adjusted right, and pay attention to where your foot is when riding.

As far as the rust, I doubt you can prevent it without taking everything apart and drying / cleaning after every ride in the rain or water crossing. Just clean it up every time you have it apart for something and be done with it, ain't a Ducati. Glad the FD isn't damaged!

I'd put new shoes on, adjust the brake, change the FD lube (in case it had been running hot) and go ride. After some miles feel the FD and make sure it's cool or warm, not hot. You should be good to go.

That may be fretting of the gear teeth creating that red dust. Would recomend applying moly lube or wheel bearing grease to the splines when you reassemble it. Grease all the splines in the drive train while you have it down, the factory still doesn't do a very good job of lubing anything, my 2010 was dry as a bone too.

I adjusted the back brakes at some point. Perhaps too much. I know I wasn't riding the back brake.

The rust is surprising. Every night except perhaps 3 it was in a garage. Maybe rode in rain or snow a few times. No stream crossings or anything like that.

The biggest shock is the bolts shearing. How did 6 bolts shear? There can't be that much stress on them.

I'm guessing they just weren't snug enough, or just loosened over the first couple thousand KM's, and probably softer steel (which isn't necessarily a bad thing). I'd replace with the same grade, blue Loctite - should be able to stand up to 40 whopping horsepower Maybe check them every oil change or so, especially if he's riding bumpy roads.

I don't think it was over adjusted. It seemed to roll easily. I do notice that I have to cock my right foot sideways so that it doesn't rest on and engage the rear brake pedal.

I am going to lube everything, as it all seems dry. The axle shaft was dry as a bone and I always lube those on my other bikes with grease. I have been doing that since I was a wee lad and I am sure it could t hurt here.

I am curious why they sheared as well. I have been driving rather gingerly as I am just getting used to piloting a rig. No dirt at all yet, just smooth straight roads. No real weight either other than the two times I took my dog around the neighborhood. 2 miles max.

if they were loose (maybe even from the dealer / factory), then over time they will shear.