BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. tommyvdv

    tommyvdv Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    430
    Location:
    Belgium
    i've bled the coolant circuit on an f650gs single a while ago and found the bleed nipple on the engine quite easy to use. the X however seems to just have a bolt where the nipple should be. can anyone confirm my suspicion? and if I am, how about I get a nipple from an f650gs and just replace the bolt. would it fit? seems like a good idea in order to keep the coolant circuit healthy
  2. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,396
    Location:
    San Bernardino, CA
    The bleed is very easy to do as is. I would think a bleed nipple would just hold some dirt so it may end up in the engine.
  3. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    467
    Location:
    Cloggyland
    <table cellspacing="0" border="0" cellpadding="0" width="299"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:8594;width:176pt" width="235"> <col style="width:48pt" width="64"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt;width:176pt" height="17" width="235">Fairing</td> <td style="width:48pt" align="right" width="64">900</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Alloy bracket</td> <td align="right">1030</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Projector mounting plate</td> <td align="right">130</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Stainless steel headstock brackets</td> <td align="right">810</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Dashboard</td> <td align="right">385</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Projector per 2</td> <td align="right">1100</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Ballast per 2</td> <td align="right">640</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">
    </td> <td>
    </td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td class="xl24" style="height:12.75pt" height="17">Total approximate weight in grams</td> <td class="xl24" align="right">4995</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
    So reckon a bit over 5 kgs bolts and nuts included

    Cable is long enough for the position as per standard cutout in the dash

    6 screws to take off the fairing and then you have access to the rear of the dash
  4. tommyvdv

    tommyvdv Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    430
    Location:
    Belgium
    It is although it's a bit messier without one.
    It is a dirty place on the bike so i get your concern about dirt getting in there.
  5. DonM

    DonM Do-dah Do-dah

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,742
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Erik wrote

    "Fairing 900
    Alloy bracket 1030
    Projector mounting plate 130
    Stainless steel headstock brackets 810
    Dashboard 385
    Projector per 2 1100
    Ballast per 2 640


    Total approximate weight in grams 4995

    So reckon a bit over 5 kgs bolts and nuts included"

    Excellent, just about what the new exhaust saves in weight. A good trade, I think!

    :clap
  6. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    795
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Are you replacing also header pipe?
    What space material will they be made from? :D:D
  7. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    467
    Location:
    Cloggyland
    My exhaust did 5.3 kgs on the scales if I remember well. So I agree with our Russian youngster :D
  8. gafrol

    gafrol Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland
  9. DonM

    DonM Do-dah Do-dah

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    Jan 13, 2008
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    4,742
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Akrapovik titanium no cat. Keeping the OEM header for now.
  10. TymeRider

    TymeRider Been here awhile

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    Apr 8, 2005
    Oddometer:
    394
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    hhoos,
    What kind of tankbag is that? How are the "winglets" supported or tied down?

  11. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,396
    Location:
    San Bernardino, CA
    It is the old style GiantLoop Buckin' Roll. The long parts are tied down.
  12. Ridin Dirty

    Ridin Dirty What day is it?

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    200
    Location:
    Arizona
    Obviously installation of an auxiliary tank is much easier hooking into the main tank air vent, but there seems to be many reports of leaking issues with the main tank gas cap. For those who installed the Touratech tank per instructions (drilling main tank), did you also experience these same overflow issues?

    I'm just wondering if there is a better solution than making the gas cap more robust.
  13. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! It's a big world!

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    529
    Location:
    WA State
    I'm sticking with my theory that all leaking issues are caused by people leaving their main tank overfull overnight or longer. It's easy for the fuel pump to pull in from the aux tank enough fuel to fill the main tank above the cap, submerging it. It wasn't designed for submersion. (Why would it be?) So far I'm two years in on my xtank with zero leaking issues. I might be wrong but so far I think I'm right. I'm not worried about leaking because I never leave the bike overnight with more fuel in the main than it was designed to hold.
  14. Earlevet

    Earlevet ADVEarl

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    585
    Location:
    Fayetteville, AR
    Well I just noticed my main tank cap was leaking. Installed a Baja tank about a year ago and no prior leaks. I will agree about leaving the aux tank being full too long. Dust will also affect the seal of main cap. I will say that I had the bike on craftman floor jack and was very much tilted up in the back which I believe had a major influince on the leak noticed tonight. Wiped the excess off the bike and will check again in the morning before my very chilly ride. As far a submersion......
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  15. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    795
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    I'm sorry, but this seems like a contradiction. Maybe I'm not understanding this correctly... :freaky

    How do you control the level of fuel in the main tank when you are running an Xtank that constantly tops it off with more fuel?

    Gas cap would need to be designed equally for sumbersion in fuel as for being in constant contact with petrol vapour, which it is. It must also absolutely not allow water or dust in, because there's a breather for that... :D

    Whether BMW has designed it in this way is a different question. Evidently, not, as the barrel rubbers start to leak...
    So is it a matter of unsuitable rubber material? Aggressive fuel (read=ethanol)?

    Someone reported replacing the seals with viton...someting to try? :ear
  16. Meriden

    Meriden Yea whatever

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,815
    Location:
    In the garden behind the dacha
    I'd not be surprised to learn that most gas caps leak after a while and only those of us filling from an aux tank via the vent ever discover it. If the Touratech method doesn't leak as frequently it could be because the stock gas cap is rarely actuated since it doesn't need to be removed to fill both tanks.


    Added the Pro Screen last weekend and really like it.

    [​IMG]
  17. jabroka

    jabroka Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    369
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    So far so good with my TT tank setup. The gas cap never leaked, not even on the occasional drop.

    I did a little mod to the gas cap seal however. It seemed that the rubber seal wont seat equally all around the circumference of the gas cap seat, so I heated it a little and re shaped it very carefully so the seal protrudes about 1mm from the gas cap seat edge.

    [​IMG]
  18. Ridin Dirty

    Ridin Dirty What day is it?

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    200
    Location:
    Arizona
    jabroka, I love your build and your graphics are killer. So did you connect your fuel line by drilling the main tank?

    I plan on adding another tank and I don't mind using the touratech technique if it takes pressure off the gas cap. My other thought was to put a valve between the main tank and the auxiliary tank. One direction would go to the auxiliary and the other to a air vent. Yea it's better to drain the auxiliary first but it gives you options. Maybe I'm putting too much thought into a minor issue? Just not a fan of leaking fuel.
  19. jabroka

    jabroka Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    369
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    Hey Ridin', thanks for the compliments. :D

    I'm in the process of changing some graphics to make it a little more dakar ish , will post pics soon :evil

    I connected the TT tank through the tank vent with a visu filter in line and a couple of dual shut off quick disconnect couplings. As I mentioned, I also modded a little the gas cap seal and also applied a think layer of fuel resistant rtv to the tank vent cap seal to make sure the fuel pump would produce enough vacuum to transfer fuel from the TT tank to the main tank.

    I tested the system with mityvac (the metal one with the vacuum gauge on it) to make sure it was perfectly sealed. No leaks whatsoever.

    I evaluated the idea of using the TT method, but after reading several threads of guy complaining about leaks on the banjo hose ends-bolts-washers, figured that it would be much easier to fix a gas cap leakage in the middle of nowhere, than having to remove the whole sub frame to get proper access to the banjo ends.
  20. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! It's a big world!

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    529
    Location:
    WA State
    To avoid storing with submerged main gas cap, just a) ride at least ~120 miles after filling main+aux, or b) don't fill the aux, just fill the main when you know you're near done for the day. It's simple.

    Designing for submersion is absolutely different from designing for vapor only. I designed my house for vapor, wind-driven rain. Excellent. No way it is submersible! For gas caps this means inside of the cap is submerged in fuel, filled above the cap. You know it when you open the cap to check and fuel pours out! Serious.

    Ethanol = bad, I run only ethanol-free fuel. See "pure-gas.org" for nationwide crowdsourced directory of ethanol-free fuel stations. BMW engineers say several problems are US-only thanks to ethanol here.