Best Mod ever for quick, no mess oil changes for your 9*0

Hey KTM 990 Owners,

I was at my buddy Chris's house (Bikyto on ADV) and bitching about my messy 50 minute oil changes and how hard it can be to get the screw back into the sump with the metal bracket in the way when doing oil changes. He said O I fixed that and he showed me his and I was like wow you don't have to take the screw out anymore. (see Pic)

I was installing the Scotts Auto Chain Oiler at the time and taking my bike to Tim's (Quik on ADV) for help on a valve check so I already had the tanks off.. Sweet !

While the bike was at Tims he ground off the metal piece needed to make the part work and installed the device...

Now I don't spill any oil on the floor when draining my sump.. In the past I have ended up with a ton of oil on the ground that splashed off the metal piece and covered a 3 square foot area in my garage... No more..

This will require

removing crash bars
Removing the upper fairing
Left Tank
unclipping electrical connectors and fuel lines for 990 owners
taking a dremel and grinding away the material
assembing the parts and removing the oil plug and installing the new plug
connecting all the connectors back
and installing tank, upper fairing and crash bars.

Parts list is below and where to get them.. Just copy paste the part numbers into the search bar on Summitracing


<A href="http://summitracing.com/" target=_blank>Summitracing.com


Part Number Part Description QTY



EAR-9919DFGERL -6 AN TO 12MM-1.5 ADAPTER QTY-1

RUS-632050 PROFLEX HOSE #6-3 QTY-1

SUM-220630 -06 PLUG AN ALUMINUM QTY-1

SUM-220690 6AN HOSE END STRAIGHT QTY-2



Thanks again Chris for sharing this and Tim for doing the work..


Paul



BTW: I don't remove my crashbars or tanks when doing an oil change normally. I am aware of the cardboard funnel trick and the aluminum foil trick (I have 40k on my bike and have used both).. this is better in my opinion.

But its a good chance to give the bike a thorough wash and check over while the tanks are off !

I always totally remove that metal piece, then oil drains straight into a pan, no mess :)

If you do the Stud mod for the crashbars you cant remove that piece. This makes it easy to drain the oil and you arent going to make a mess doing it. And it looks good as well.

I plan to do this mod next time I change the oil.

Some alternatives here:

Oil drain valve
www.oildrainvalve.net/products/F109N-%3A-12mm%252d1.5.html
www.qwikvalve.com/F109N-12mm-1.5-w-nipple.html
http://fumotousa.com

These valves are all the same but sometimes the price differs.

I installed it when the bike had fresh oil and only lost a couple ounces. Got more on my hands than in the oilpan. I will be doing mine soon.

I just finished installing my Fumoto valve and drain tube. I'm *almost* looking forward to the next oil change!

A life-altering mod for those of us who do our own work. Looks great!

Thx for the positive feedback.

You wouldn't happen to know or remember the Fumoto valve number that you ordered by any chance? UPDATE - Disregard - It would help if I actually read the whole thread above. Somedays I am, shall we say, lost

I have the Fumoto valves on all my cars and truck - make life much simpler - and cleaner!

Just to let you know- I've got the Fumoto valve on my bike, have for a while. If I had to do it again, I'd do it Paul's/Chris's way, with the hose and plug. The Fumoto valve is a really tight fit in there (to operate the valve), and I think the hose plug would be more secure.

Say, I have a few stupid questions for those that have done the mod. Do you trim the 3 foot hose section down to something shorter? If so, what is the preferred method of cutting a steel braided hose? I have a Dremel and am not afraid to use it! Where do you guys route the hose?

Thanks,
Lance

Lance,
Just got through making some AN12 hose oil cooler lines for my STI and used a peanut gridner with a 3 inch cut off wheel. Wrap the area to be cut with packing tape (or some other strong tape) - the cut off wheel makes a nice clean cut - but lots of debris in the hose. Blew it out and washed it out with solvent and paper plugs till it came out clean.
You might be able to do it with a dremel - but I think you will go through a least a couple of cut off wheels.RegardsRegards,
Bill

Thanks for the info

Thanks, Bill!

Lance

I cut it down to about a foot. The end of the hose sits under the motor.

I've been using the Quikvalve and a length of plastic tubing. A very nice mod for sure!

Other than aesthetics, I can't see any advantage to using braided line for this. It's not like it is flowing fluid under pressure or is a critical line that needs the protection.

Does look pretty though!

But it does protect the line from damage and if that line were just rubber and somehow had a hole in it your engine would lose all its oil. So the Braided line makes sense.

Yeah, this mod is different than the quick valve. The quick valve shuts off the oil at the valve, so the tube is only used during an oil change to drain the tank. This mod, however, has no such valve at the tank as far as I can tell. The line is full of oil all the time, and the oil change is accomplished by removing the plug at the end of the line. That makes the braided cable a necessity to preserve the integrity of the oil system.

Lance

That makes sense. Thanks for 'splainin' it.

Once I looked again at the photo I see there is no valve at the tank end of the line like the QuikValve setup.

Is there any advantage to using a capped line instead of the QuikValve mod? Maybe a slight cost savings?

Both ways are certainly better than the stock method.

I have a quick valve and I had to be careful how to position it. and also I had to add few mm thick spacer at the bottom gastank mounting bolt to prevent gas tank from touching quick valve. Looks like there are no issues(very minor) like that with this setup.

I havent looked at the quikvalve setup. This method will be easy to use. Remove the bellypan, drop the hose down, Loosen the cap/bolt and let it drain into the pan. Nice solid setup.