Sh1bby's R65 Cafe Build - Page 4

sh1bby69 · 08-05-2012, 09:02 PM

it's been a while since I've updated my build thread. I have gone back to work and it's been pretty busy. So today I was able to remove the engine and thats about it. In the next few days I plan to replace the push rod grommets and the oil pan seal. Those were the only thing that needed to be replaced. I think I'll also replace the neutral switch.

Also since the engine is out I plan to install progressive front springs. I hear of talk saying the springs should be stored in an up right position in a garbage bin. Mine has been stored on it's side, will I have any issues?

sh1bby69 · 08-15-2012, 10:34 PM

So here is another update. I know my thread isn't as exciting as some others but I was finally able to remove the drive shaft from the swing arm with my home made tool.

Made with a pipe and pipe clamps.

So now I'm able to send my frame and everything else out to get powder coated. Slowly but surely

benthic · 08-16-2012, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sh1bby69

I was finally able to remove the drive shaft from the swing arm with my home made tool.

you may want to consider have BMW MC of Escondido put the shaft back in - it will be about $20, well worth it in my opinion to have Paul look at it and be sure it's installed correctly:)

sh1bby69 · 08-16-2012, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benthic

you may want to consider have BMW MC of Escondido put the shaft back in - it will be about $20, well worth it in my opinion to have Paul look at it and be sure it's installed correctly:)

Thanks for the heads up! Have you had any experience with Irvs Seaver BMW in Orange? I'm closer to them lol

Also is it that difficult to reinstall the shaft?

benthic · 08-16-2012, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sh1bby69

Thanks for the heads up! Have you had any experience with Irvs Seaver BMW in Orange? I'm closer to them lol

Also is it that difficult to reinstall the shaft?

I'm not familiar with Irvs Seaver, sorry! But BMW Esco is very airhead friendly, and their airhead tech, Paul, came VERY highly recommended to me by my San Diego airhead gurus. He rebuilt my transmission, and he pulled the shaft out of the swingarm and replaced if after i powdercoated. I don't know how difficult it is to put back on your own, but for $20, i found it hardly worth the possible frustration (and possible scratches to the fresh powdercoat!) of doing it myself;)

spencer

sh1bby69 · 08-16-2012, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benthic

I'm not familiar with Irvs Seaver, sorry! But BMW Esco is very airhead friendly, and their airhead tech, Paul, came VERY highly recommended to me by my San Diego airhead gurus. He rebuilt my transmission, and he pulled the shaft out of the swingarm and replaced if after i powdercoated. I don't know how difficult it is to put back on your own, but for $20, i found it hardly worth the possible frustration (and possible scratches to the fresh powdercoat!) of doing it myself;)

spencer

Thanks for sharing! At least I know they are Airhead friendly.

supershaft · 08-16-2012, 10:16 AM

Another heads up about Progressive springs for that bike: They are entirely out of the ball park too stiff. Stock springs and about a half inch preload is where I would start. WAY better. Get the sag about where you want it with preload and then dial in how stiff you want the setup. Once in the ballpark, I use washers stacked up. 1/16th" makes a big diff once you are close. Good luck!

sh1bby69 · 08-16-2012, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supershaft

Another heads up about Progressive springs for that bike: They are entirely out of the ball park too stiff. Stock springs and about a half inch preload is where I would start. WAY better. Get the sag about where you want it with preload and then dial in how stiff you want the setup. Once in the ballpark, I use washers stacked up. 1/16th" makes a big diff once you are close. Good luck!

Are you referring to the rear suspension or the front? I'm actually going in a different direction in the build. Looking to attach a sidecar onto it.

guy152 · 08-18-2012, 05:23 AM

I agree with Supershaft, my setup worked out best with just adding 5/8 thick piece of 3/4 PVC.

sh1bby69 · 09-10-2012, 12:31 AM

Well after having my parts sit in the garage after being powder coated I decided to get the engine back on and start putting her back together. As much as I tried to not screw up the frame while installing the engine, I still messed it up. Next time I know it's way easier to put the engine in front first....

Oh well...

Wish I painted some parts of the engine before like the cylinder head and timing chain cover. Still can but it'll be tougher.

08-05-2012, 09:02 PM	#46
sh1bby69 ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Orange County, CA Oddometer: 405	it's been a while since I've updated my build thread. I have gone back to work and it's been pretty busy. So today I was able to remove the engine and thats about it. In the next few days I plan to replace the push rod grommets and the oil pan seal. Those were the only thing that needed to be replaced. I think I'll also replace the neutral switch. Also since the engine is out I plan to install progressive front springs. I hear of talk saying the springs should be stored in an up right position in a garbage bin. Mine has been stored on it's side, will I have any issues? __________________ '79 BMW R65 '02 Suzuki Volusia with Sputnik Sidecar (in progress)

08-15-2012, 10:34 PM	#47
sh1bby69 ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Orange County, CA Oddometer: 405	So here is another update. I know my thread isn't as exciting as some others but I was finally able to remove the drive shaft from the swing arm with my home made tool. Made with a pipe and pipe clamps. So now I'm able to send my frame and everything else out to get powder coated. Slowly but surely __________________ '79 BMW R65 '02 Suzuki Volusia with Sputnik Sidecar (in progress)

08-16-2012, 10:16 AM	#52
supershaft because I can Joined: Sep 2010 Location: San Francisco Bay area Oddometer: 6,082	Another heads up about Progressive springs for that bike: They are entirely out of the ball park too stiff. Stock springs and about a half inch preload is where I would start. WAY better. Get the sag about where you want it with preload and then dial in how stiff you want the setup. Once in the ballpark, I use washers stacked up. 1/16th" makes a big diff once you are close. Good luck! supershaft screwed with this post 08-16-2012 at 10:22 AM

09-10-2012, 12:31 AM	#55
sh1bby69 ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Orange County, CA Oddometer: 405	Well after having my parts sit in the garage after being powder coated I decided to get the engine back on and start putting her back together. As much as I tried to not screw up the frame while installing the engine, I still messed it up. Next time I know it's way easier to put the engine in front first.... Oh well... Wish I painted some parts of the engine before like the cylinder head and timing chain cover. Still can but it'll be tougher. __________________ '79 BMW R65 '02 Suzuki Volusia with Sputnik Sidecar (in progress)

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08-18-2012, 05:23 AM	#54
guy152 Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Northwest Connecticut, USA Oddometer: 12	I agree with Supershaft, my setup worked out best with just adding 5/8 thick piece of 3/4 PVC.