Twisted Throttle Electrical Connection CAN-BUS Electrical Connector

Has anybody used this on an 800GS? I am trying to add some LED lights and I got this connector from Twisted Throttle. I found the light I believe behind a twist off weatherproof cover. I can see how to hook up the connector but not how to run it out of the Headlight housing.

Anybody have a suggestion? It sounds simple and I have searched this site and googled to where my sanity is leaving and can't find anybody else addressing the issue. I must be missing something.

I found a small grommet having a hole just large enough to pass the wire through and then drilled a hole just the right size for the grommet in the housing.

mike

Thanks,

I was about ready to drill a whole but decided I must be missing something. That isn't going to happen tonight so I will put it to bed. I am interested in any other ideas out there.

I ran the wires for my HID lights out the vent tube.

I ended up running the wire through one of the caps after drilling a hope through it. It seems to be working great.

I wish I had seen this sooner. We will put together a little tutorial on that. For anyone else who reads this I suggest you to use a 9/32 bit to drill the hole. It will create a nice snug pass-through for the wire. It might not be a bad idea to put a dab of sealant where the wire exits the housing as well.

Sorry for the slow response.

Kevin

So how do you make the actual connection, other than 3M?

No problem. I called your customer service number and confirmed a hole was needed. The tutorial sounds like a great idea. I searched all over and could not believe the question had not been asked before. So far I love the lights.

The connection Downer is speaking of has 2 ends and a pigtail wire. It is called the CAN-BUS Connector.



One of the connections is male and the other is female. You plug the connector into the euro light bulb socket and put the euro bulb in the other end of the connector. The wire that comes off of the in-line connector can be used to hook up an accessory device without confusing the CAN-BUS system. This wire is appropriate for connecting an auxiliary fuse block.

Kev

Very nice, I'll swing by the store when the weather improves. It will also give me a chance to sample those excellent RI oysters for lunch. :dg

Getting set to order this plus Connector plus the Fuse Block...just want to make sure I understand something...

If using the Twisted Throttle Fuse Block with this connector, do I wire that fuse block to the pos/neg battery terminals and then the "switched source" wire goes to this CAN BUS connector? This basically just gives me the safe switched source, right?

I guess if I have to ask I probably should not do this myself, but I cannot continue on so helplessly. Gotta learn somehow. I am sure I can get the magic smoke back in the wires if some of it gets out during this process.

The game plan: a lighter, stronger lithium battery plus a fuse block for the GPS, heated vest, and LED aux lights. Right now I just have the GPS wired to the battery and the heated vest plugged in the BMW outlet. Would like to clean this up a little.

Now where in the heck will all these wires, blocks, and switched hide themselves.....?

Hi Kev,

I'm about to place a large order for a bunch of stuff from you guys and didn't know you had this cable/connector. Would you please clarify what you mean by "euro light bulb socket"? The BMW bikes I've had so far (will be getting my new 2013 F800GS in a couple of weeks) have had a special connector hidden usually under the tank or near the battery compartment which is supposedly used for GPS. I can't remember exactly what the connector looked like but I've gotten it from my BMW dealer and used that to feed my fuse panel relay. Is this what your gadget does? Is that what you're calling the euro light bulb socket?

Also, may I veer a bit off topic by asking you about your Denali D2D light kit? Does it include a switch and mounting hardware for the 2013 F800GS?

Thanks.

The Euro Light is a small bulb in the headlight cluster (below the main bulb on the F800GS).

As for the Denali D2D - the included harness has a lighted switch. We have not figured out a way to make one light mount that fits all applications or that would be in the kit as well. We have several universal options but in the case of the F800GS you're lucky. We have a bike-specific mount that looks like this:


Shown with a PIAA light but can be used to mount most auxiliary lights

Some universal motorcycle light mount options you can explore are these:

• M5 Fender Mount
• M6 Fender Mount
• Crashbar & Handlebar Mount - Covers a wide range of tube sizes 7/8", 1", 28mm, 1.25", 21.3mm, and 26.9mm

I hope this helps. If you want feel free to call our toll-free customer service line. 855-255-5550. Those guys have a lot of information and are happy to help figure it all out.

Kevin

If you are buying a fuze block, don't use the light canbus connector, but use the GPS connector as a switched trigger for the fuze block. The other thread has the cable in question. No need to drill your light housing this way
Yes, the power for the fuze block comes directly from the battery, and the trigger comes from the +12V wire off the GPS connector - there is only one that carries a +12V signal -IIRC it's the one labeled #3 but please check.
It's really easy to hook up nothing to it.
My Fuze Block *just* fits in the space under the battery ("tank") cover if you take the backing plate off and replace it with velcro.

Picard, can you tell me if that GPS connector maintains power for about 30 seconds or so after shutting off the ignition? That's what it does with my K1300GT and it's starting to bug me. I have LED brake/running lights at the back and LED visibility lights in front as well as my GPS and because I feed them from my fuse block which uses that GPS line as the trigger, they stay on for about 30 seconds after turning the bike off. And in many cases I'd rather not draw attention to myself and the bike after shutting down.

For me if the F800GS wire worked that way, it would be reason for me to search for another option.

(Not that I'd ever do it, but imagine if you're being chased for speeding at night and you get ahead and turn off into a dark alley and shut down, only to have all your farkle lights stay on announcing your presence. :) )

And I can't tell you how many times people have told me I left my lights on after I've walked away from the bike.

Cheers!

Picard, I see from another thread you replied to that this GPS connector does indeed keep power on for about 30 seconds or so after the ignition is switched off. After living with that for a couple of years now with my K1300GT, I really don't like that and want to find a power source that switches off IMMEDIATELY when I turn the bike off. Does that "euro light" switch off immediately?

GPS connector stays powered on for a bit, headlight bulbs go out so will the TT connector since it's hooked up to that circuit.

Good stuff. Thanks! Hell, I forgot I bought one of those BMW pigtails some time ago...just found it in the toolbox...gonna wire it up and add the Fuse Block.

If using either of these CAN-Bus switched power sources (the BMW or the TT) plus a Fuse Block, are we still subject to the "Canbus might shut it down if it is too much draw" situation?

Without a full blown analysis of wattage here:
Scenario: heated vest plugged to outlet, GPS running on Fuse Block (switched source), LED lights running on Fuse Block (switched source), possibly one other warming accessory linked to Fuse Block (always hot, with an on/off switch on the accessory itself).

Would CAN-Bus go nuts in this scenario or is it only "seeing" the power draw from the directly connected stock plug?

Using either of the switched power sources will NOT cause problems with the CAN-Bus system because the only thing connected to it would be the relay which turns on/off the draw to the fuse block. Your fuse block does NOT take its power from the switched power source! It takes it directly from the battery, controlled by the relay which itself draws so little power that it doesn't affect CAN-Bus.

I do suggest that you don't use anything "always hot" as one day you're going to forget about it and come back to a dead battery or worse. I run my heated gear (jacket and gloves) through my fuse block (switched) as well as an air compressor for the tires. No problem at all. And of course the little stuff - GPS, most lights, etc.) are even less problem.

Happy trails!

I see your point MtlBiker. Running from the cops takes more than being able to turn your GPS off but I do find it slightly annoying that I have to wait 30s to tell the GPS to stay on (those times when I want it to). For me that still wasn't worth drilling my headlight cover but that's a personal choice. Gambeaux, MtlBiker already answered your question. No power draw worth speaking of on the trigger wire - a few 10s of mW maybe.