The last couple months I've been trying to get my 1976 Honda MT125 to spark. I has a new coil, new spark plugs, and I set the gap to factory spec. No spark. But then, I widened the gap, and it sparked once and I haven't been able make it spark again. The spark was blue.
It may be your cdi. "eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth"
Yes it could be, except for the fact that the bike is a old school coil, points, & condenser type ignition and it doesn't have a CDI. Been trying to help this guy on his other thread about trying to get this bike running but he's not answering questions.
I was actually doubting my post, I was not actually sure if the bike had a cdi or not. Maybe someday he will respond, hopefully before the world ends .
He responded in a so, so way, but if you look at his profile you'll see that he's 16 years old, so we need to cut the kid some slack for even trying on his own.
Reminds me of myself when i first started making threads, o well he will start responding quickly when he finds the subscribe button.
Perhaps that is true for a slowzuki but he has a HONDA for crying out loud, You could tell us what a 76 Ford pickup uses too and it would be about as much help.
Here. Read and follow these instructions. BTW magnetos require clean and square point faces to deliver max spark. Access to breaker point inspection and timing adjustment is provided by removing small cover on left side engine cover. Ignition should occur, breaker points just open, as "F" mark on flywheel aligns with timing mark (TM-Breaker points should just open as "F" mark on flywheel aligns with timing mark (TM). Timing ts adjusted by varying breaker point gap within recommended range of 0.3-0.4Mfyi.). Timing is adjusted by varying breaker point gap. Normal breaker point gap, with timing properly set, is 0.3-0.4MM (0.012-0.016 inch). Breaker points should be renewed if proper timing is not possible within range of 0.2-0.6MM (0.008-0.024 inch). Flywheel must be removed to renew breaker points. Flywheel retaining bolt should be torqued to 1.8-2.3 kg-m (13-16.6ft.-lbs.). High tension ignition coil and ignition condenser are frame mounted beneath fuel tank. Alternator current is converted to DC by a silicon rectifier and used for battery charging and indicator lights. A 6V-6AH battery and a 10 A fuse are used in the system.
First of all Question 1. How important is it that the flywheel is properly torqued? I don't mind torqueing(?) it, but would that prevent spark? Question 2. If the rectifier is bad, would that prevent spark? And where is it? Question 3. I have been adjusting breaker gap by loosening the screw on the points, and gently tapping the assembly in the desired direction, is that right? Question 4. That description pretty much covers the whole ignition system right? I apologize for the newbishness, it's a common symptom of being a newb. Question 5. I see the "F," but no "TM." There is a pointy part poking out about 1/4 inch from the wall and is about in the right spot, might that be it? Question 6. I've saved the newbiest of all for last. The points gap (.012-.016 inches) is the minimum or the maximum value? Should the points ever actually touch? Newb,[greek] (-ie) (noun)ne who is new, green, or inexperienced Synonyms: Me, greenhorn, noob, newbie, Antonyms: guru, expert, the rest of y'all. eg.The newb proclaimed proudly that he switched his ignition coil from his 76 Ford F150 onto his 76 Honda MT125.
1 if flywheel is not properly torqued it could spin loose/destroy keyway and potentially crank. as long as it's tight and located opn the keyway it will not effect spark, but yes, it should be properly torqued. 2. rectifier will not effect spark 3. the points should have a slot for a screwdriver to gently nudge them wider or closer. 4. kill switch, points, stator plate, charge coil, flywheel, points, condenser, ignition coil, sparkplug wire/end cap/sparkplug is the entire ignition system. 5. dunno haven't even looked to see what kinda bike we are talking about. 6. the value is the range of maximum opening - the maximum they should seperate is between .012 and .016. YES, the points need to touch at some point in the rotation. they need to open and close 1 time total during each rotation.
She Ran! with help from my older (more experienced) brother, she ran. Not too well though, and we forgot to tighten the flywheel and sheered the key again. Ordering one now. When it did run though, it had some idle issues, and it would not stay running. I cant really describe it well because we only had it running a few times before the key sheared and now i have no spark. When i get it running again, ill mess with timing/idle/air/fuel mixture and describe it in more detail. I do have a few questions though. After the key sheared, I tried tightening the flywheel to see if i could get spark without the key. It looked like the flywheel was staying in place without the key, but i still didnt have spark. Is that still probably the key?
One more thing. When I would kick it over, sometimes it would suddenly stop dead, and I would break my ankle. Is this normal? Oh. And the problem was i taped the wiring together wrong and some of the previously chopped up wires shorted. lol
need the key to line the timing up. no key, not gonna spark at right time. i'm assuming you have not loosened the stator plate bolts. don't. not being a dick, but you don't have the tools or skill to properly time it. if you have a dial indicator and know the specs, go for it, otherwise, don't touch it.
should not stop dead. if it only stops dead when you had spark, your timing is off. if it stops dead without spark, you have other problems. test: put a spark plug in it, do not hook spark plug cap up. kick away. if it doesn't ever stop dead you have a timing issue. if it does stop dead you have a most likely major issue. with that in mind, if you only weigh 80 lbs, and were not kicking with authority, and it stopped, that could just be compression. here's a trick to make it easier to kick. push kicker over till you feel resistance. then a tiny bit more and you will feel resistance again.. then it will just turn easily. now, find the spot between those 2 points of resistance and kick away. this will give you maximum piston velocity when it comes back around to spark. hard to explain, but it works. basically push kicker slowly till you feel resistance, then push it a tiny bit more, then reset kicker, then kick away. disclaimer: if you break your ankle, that's not my fault. when it ran, (not well), that could have been timing, and not carburetion. did it spit and buck? that's usually timing. if it just bogged/wouldn't rev, reluctant to take throttle, that's either not warmed up or carb problem. i'm assuming since you could not get it to run well, it still was never warmed up.
everything stainless said no key = no bueno If timing is off (like with no key) it may not want to kick over.. Had the timing off on my TY after the motor rebuild I eyeballed it on the work bench. It wanted to feel locked up and or kick back with authority...2 minutes with a dial indicator and a feeler gauge and it was purring. buy the manual and repair it right before you screw the bike up.
Timing is actually pretty easy on my bike. with help, I got the basics, the plate doesnt move, only the ponts assembly. Ill keep you all posted.
