DR650SE Index Topic #14 LUGGAGE & RACKS, ACCESSORIES

I don't have pics with me, but another soft bag option to consider (and relatively inexpensive and light) is Dirt Bagz with a dry duffle.

I run DBz Rangers, a medium Seattle Sports roll top dry bag, a Wolfman Enduro, and Tusk tank panniers -- if needed. If you don't load the duffle too much, you can keep the weight fairly low and this gives enough storage for me for up to a week if I pack light. This also leaves plenty of room for add-ons (like chairs and stuff) strapped on the back. Note the DBz are not waterproof, but I use trash or dry bags and my stuff stays dry.

Porrick

http://www.dbzproducts.com/
wolfman makes the bags for dirtbagz

here's my setup:
-bbq rack w/ pelican 1520 bolted through. pelican is mounted rearwards 1" from the from of the rack's front edge, so i can loop the 2 center straps on the coyote around the front edge of the rack.
-giantloop coyote bag. sits on the rear part of the seat. straped to the front edge of the rear rack (w/ 2 center straps) and the passenger pegs. fender strap not used. holds rock solid. sometimes i strap something else (a round top-loader dry bag) on top w/ rox straps. it sits in area between the pelican and the top of the coyote. don't want to put too much weight onto the pelican/ebay bbq rack mounts.
-i'll use one of those helmet/bungy style nets w/ multi hooks over top the pelican top surface to quickly stash a linner or towel to dry or something light like that.

Thanks very much, you two. I've used Dirt Bagz, and they're nice and handy. I need something with more capacity though, so I can keep the dry duffle on the seat small and light. And I know folks rave about the Giant Loop, but I'm apt to dig in and out of my luggage thru the day and I'm thinking that set up would be way too much fuss. Other thoughts? Thanks again, everybody.

Sarah

Exhaust stand-offs for luggage:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17504367&postcount=58041

alum. lockable toolbox that replaces the the stock tool tube:
http://drriders.com/topic1607.html

I'm trying to install a Moose Racing / TCI Borrego (believe they are the same rack) on the back of my DR650. There are no places on the new rack where the turn signals could be mounted so I'm assuming it is meant to be used with the stock grab handles that the signals are mounted to. Using the same hardware that was holding the grab handles, I can not get the new rack tightened properly at all 4 corners. The tubing of the new rack gets in the way of the turn signal mount on the stock grab handles. I've tried several ways of tightening the front screws first, rears first, one side at a time, etc. No matter what I do though either a front or a rear bolt will not tighten all the way. Since it doesn't line up right from the interference of the rack tubing and signal mount if I force the bolt to tighten it, then it will keep popping back out before it tightens up. I'm afraid of stripping out the threads where the bolts screw into as I've noticed some shavings under it from where I kept trying to muscle the bolt in.

Any ideas? I'm thinking of buying longer than stock bolts to see if that helps, though am thinking I would still have the problem of the turn signal mounts rubbing on the rack?

FYI: this is the rack https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=549

Hey Eakins How is she going over there
those guys sell a lot of rack and its a good one , it should fit i think we are the only ones that offer blinker tabs welded onto the rack but i am not sure

Yes...it is to be used with the grab handles. Remove the grab handles to install the rack, install rack, then install grab handles with the front bolts first. You'll need a 1/4" spacer for between the frame and grab handle for the rear bolt. It will still be a tight fit.

Thanks for the response. I ended up stopping by the hardware store to buy longer bolts for the front and back and it sort of worked that way. I got the bolts all tightened down good with rack and grab handles on, but they are still touching and sort of jammed together. Thinking about it the 1/4" spacer is probably a better idea if that's enough to keep that contact from happening. Oh well too late now I guess, there are already gashes in the rack and handle from where the contact is.

http://www.vstroma.com/oilfillercap.htm

dr & strom use ths same oil filer cap.
this provides security

got the bbq rack.
mini wind screen to keep the wind off my chest
supermoto front fender, best mod for the highway for sure.
ims 4.9 gallon tank, 200 mile range.
race tech suspension kits from pro cycle front and rear setup for 240 pound desert racer, trail tricks set it up and installed . 8.1 spring rear. also must haves.
skidplate, obviously.
stock engine, stock jetting, stock exhaust. real men just twist it more. and stealth is best these days.
had rimlocks installed and had wheels balanced. must have for highway, stock rims btw
stock seat, real riders stand!
sw motech center stand, this actually moved the stock pegs out a half inch and got rid of rubber bushings so +1 but for offroad i use a large zip tie to hold it up because the spring is lame/weak and it flops down.
stock mirrors are fine and havent broken yet, i just push them forward a little when riding offroad.
dropped 1 tooth on the counter shaft sprocket. must do for offroad, lost a little top speed on the highway but not too bad.
still no hand guards
10k miles and hasnt missed a beat!
stock blinkers and stock tail light, bbq rack protects all that.
got the license plate holder also,as the stock holder really was crap.

I put a action packer on my factory DR top rack.
Installation was fairly easy and it has held up well so far.
I mounted it by cuttting slots on each side of my rack at my six mounting points on the top rack and using hose clamps.

2 options to lift bike for tire changes, chain adjust, etc. if no center stand
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=380877
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=538235

Couple of pic's of my set up:

Seahorse 520 cases on Wolfman Gen II side racks. Bolted them right through the tabs on the racks.

another option for latin america touring
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/p...d=424&osCsid=5fbf43f02501e5edbdd7011ff0a365fd

moto mule dual sport trailer
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=742318

I had Pat Walsh bash plate and crash bars on my Wee and was happy with the fit, desgin and finish, so I put a Pat Walsh on my DR and a Wolfman "Peak" tail pack. The tail pack is good around town and short trips, which is what a I bought it for. I have a larger tail bag for longer rides.

I had to cut off one of the fingers that hang down from the rack to be used as a hook mount to clear my GSXR can.

Happy overall with this set up for day rides and the rack is big enough to support a larger bag as needed.

Tool Tube and Aux Gas



I mounted the tool tube as far forward as the side cover would allow when not using Smilin' Jack's aux gas idea. The tube is from AgriSupply and it's 4-1/2" x 12-1/2".


In the next two pics you can see the mounting pads that are on the tube. But someone said they have broken on some (the tubes are meant to hold paper documents, not a full tool roll). So I used the tab + bolts into the tube itself. The large washers spread the load over a larger area. I used a long bolt (with full threads) to go from the out side all the way thru to the inside nut. So it had to be the same thread as the bolt holding the rear grab handle. Then I fitted the inside bracket to plug up into the slot available, already in the fender.


The rear mount is just a flat piece of 1/8" alum cut to size.



This pic shows both the flat alum piece to the fender (which I thought wouild do the job), and the added bracket where the helmet lock used to live. The front was complete and had no in and out movement (flex). But the rear would still move right and left when grabbed by the lid and push-pulled sideways. It's been my experience that any movement like that will eventually break because of vibration fatigue. That little bracket 'cemented' the entire assembly together; there is no movement when grabbing and shaking the tube, the bike will fall over first.



This shows the front bracket pretty well, including the two bolts into the tube. There are fender washers on the inside, again to spread the load.



The lid shook loose on a couple of rides so I added the UV resistant bungy cord. This must have stopped the buzzing vibration because the lid hasn't come loose since.


The tube isn't aligned with the muffler angle; I didn't have much choice in the location, it just fit together as I worked.

For the curious, here are three pics of an idea I borrowed from Smilin Jack. It holds 1-1/4 gallons, and doesn't leak a drop.



Smilin Jack's original idea and photo:


My version:


Smilin Jack's bracket has an offset to the outside that I didn't notice. I got lucky.


In the beginning I rode carefully, not wanting to shake the two additions into fragments. However, over the last year, I've been riding as hard as I want, without thinking about the tube or the aux gas. This includes 100 mile rides down and back up Rampart Range Road, with lots of stutter bumps. The guy across the street (ex-rider) asked about the aux gas and grabbed the tank, checking the 'secure-ness'. "Damn, that's tight." Yes, yes it is. The tool roll is a tight fit into the tube, it's fairly heavy.
If you ever see this bike, this clean again, call the police, it's been stolen.