KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

tired of hunting.....BUMP!

the LED's are soldered directly to the board...

Sounds like you need a wiring diagram and bike with the FI info, find the proper colors on the diagram and then open up the bike to find where they plug in.

in the index:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130454

see if he's got your 2002 model

Inmates,

Would need your advice here... yesterday at around 240km from Ouagadougou (capital Burkina Faso) where I live I had an engine failure in the middle of the bush... I drive a KTM 640 Adventure from 2005 with 30,000 km (first time it gives up on me )... driven by myself and always well maintained!

The bike just quit at around 80kph on a small dirt road... I pulled the clutch and stopped... try to start but no rotation of the starter... try to kick but the engine does not even turn round (all rest is ok!)... nothing was possible and so I think I have something like broker distribution chain? Or something with piston, valves??

Any of you an idea? Any advice before I start opening the engine!!

Check out some pics (don't laugh!! ;-) ) on https://picasaweb.google.com/100290552892570371330/MototourGaoua12may2012

Arrived this morning at 1am in the back of a truck with some cows looking at me... frustrating!

Thanks for the support!

Willem in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

could be be valves/pistons.

could be exploded clutch.

could be exploded starter with metal in the ring gear.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

I'd still ride with you, I'll be the guy one the blue bike and let my buddies carry all my gear By the way do you have any info on the paniers on the left? Looks interesting if they remove easily they could double as a bench or table.

Gerst


(pic stolen from williembron's picasa account)

I'd check this first, could also be loose stator or rotor parts jammed up in the flywheel. The stator cover is about the easiiest part of the motor to remove so it's as good a place as any to start looking.

A failure bad enough to lock the motor up is strange at only 30K km. Usually the worst you might get at that mileage is a worn out cam follower roller or water pump (rebuild these if you tear into the top of the engine)

Cheers
Clint

I would agree with Clint - for the freewheel cover to remove You don't evene have to dump oil. Be ready there will some leak but not much at all. Lean it to left or simply place the bike on the sidestand. Be patient with removal of the cover - there is a magnet force which holds it into its place.
Another thing would be to dump oil and have a look under the clutch cover itself. Look for the debris in the oil. Remove spark plug and try to see inside - maybe you will see something. Try to keep things clean and tidy. Start with washing the bike.

My bike died in a similar way. I opened the flywheel cover and found a damaged stator. The problem was a broken tooth from the intermediate gear (p/n 58440022000).


I had to remove the gear to see the damage...


See the missing tooth...


The problem is there are NO Intermediate gears available to me until 22 June as they are back ordered by KTM USA. Any one know where I can buy one???

Looks like this:


You may have some broken gears too. If you do there may be a temporary solution - you could remove all the starter gears and kick start the bike!! Note that you will need a flywheel puller to get to the gear behind the flywheel.

Fly wheel puller in place.


I removed my flywheel to inspect the gears but did not need to in the end as the bust gear is behind the starter cover. I had to loosen the starter to get the intermediate gear out - (no need to remove the starter motor). Just remove the two starter motor bolts. I had to hit the case of the starter motor to nudge it a bit.

Remove the two bolts holdong the starter and sldie the starter out of the gear case a few millimetres. The Intermediate gear can then be removed.


The gear looked OK from the outside as the back half of the tooth was bust. Yes that little tooth stuffed up my stator and killed my bike.

Here the tooth lies inside my flywheel...

How fast is too fast for the auto decompress to kick in? I did a top end on my 03 and now I get a lot more clatter than I use to hear. 1700 to 1750 rpm it clacks a little. Any less is nonstop. About 300 rpm higher than before. I replaced the decom spring and bearings on the cam and the bearings on the rockers. The play on the rocker shafts are in spec though the intake side is right at .3mm. Valve lash is correct. There is free play in the decompress cable. I didn’t touch the decompress shaft. Other than the clack it runs great. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks inmates for thinking along! Highly appreciated if you are far from the world in Ouagadougou.

We checked it (with my excellent local mechanic Issa Zangre!) and have encountered a broken distribution chain... looks like as a result of a faulty rocker arm roller intake which is also completely distroyed. Besides the camshaft has spots of usage on the intake cam... Sh...beep... I have changed the intake rocker roller bearing 4000km ago, might this have to do with it? Also the cylinder head was sign of breaking, precisely where the rocker arm is situated.

We inspected valves and downside (cylinder + piston, etc.) and all seems to be fine!

Sorry couldn't take pics still - will try to share. This will cost me a shitload of money but hell the bike is worth it... and 30k km.

Any advice is still welcome... any suggestions where to buy the parts cheaper in the USA??

Cheers and take care,

Willem

Might be due to the rocker arm roller. If you had not pressed/creased in the ends of the roller, the pins between the rocker arm and the roller will travel away, causing it to fail due to the roller pins getting between parts and the roller to not function.

What I did when I changed the rollers, was that I cut coils from a spring of about the same size (slightly smaller) as the center piece of the roller, glue those to both ends of the roller, and press it together with a vice. That way you spread the center pin of the rocker arm roller and the smaller pins won't run away.

Bummer! Maybe the roller was installed incorrectly making it seize up?

For parts I use Munn Racing, join up to the KTM Talk forum & you get a discount. They will not ship internationally (no US KTM dealer will) so you need to use a shipping service, I use comgateway.

Cheers
Clint

To start with, my 640E '03 has this muffler

Instead of buying the SXC muffler, not too bad priced, I've bought a very cheap never used stock muffler from someone that bought the bike already with an aftermarket exhaust can. It looks a bit rusty in the inside, but I guess once fitted - if I ever do - the exhaust fumes flow will "cure" that. I have the same muffler on the bike, planning to modify this one, assuming it's the same as the Supertrapp you seem to have.
If it's the same can, and as my self-confidence in my mechanical ability is way below zero, providing it's a non-reversible modification, I'd like to be well sure of what to do before drilling or cutting anything. I have in mind a gain in performance, but I'm not at all after too much sound, I like the bike as it is.

As per Creeper's post http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79898


Do I cut the center core as he suggests, taking out a 15cm. bit, or would it be better drilling several say 1 cm holes around that back plate? Better near the edges or round the center? Or it doesn't matter at all?

4. Modifying the stock muffler.
The best part about this is that KTM uses a SuperTrapp USFS diffuser disc spark arrestor system on this bike... easy to tune once you remove a bit of "restriction" downstream.
Remove the Supertrapp spark arrestor discs and end cap. Obtain a 1.5" hole saw, find a wooden dowel that fits tightly in the center hole of the mechanical baffle... you need this to help center the drill.
Core out the baffle tube with the hole saw. A tube of about 6 inches in length comes out when the hole saw cut thru.
Reinstall the discs... the bike probably comes with 10 to 12 discs stock... you can add up to around 16 to suit your personal sound meter, but as I recall, 10 to 12 is more than enough for most folks.

I am trying to sort out the wiring on my '01 E conversion with '99 Adventure parts.

Just turned the ignition on, and the ICO thingy is working, but in German.

It has 00000km on the odometer, so the guy that rallied the ADV bike previously must have stripped the dash from the brand new bike.

Anyone know if it is possible to change the language setting? Using google I found I have a modified Touratech IMO-100R.

The instructions are here but I couldn't find any settings for language...

http://www.touratech-usa.com/media/QijjhP/09-012-0011-1.pdf

EDIT : added a photo I 'borrowed' for clarity:

Yes, you can change the language on these. I believe you scroll through the options using the E/R to go page by page. I will see about checking mine when i get up in the afternoon (morning for me!)

In looking at this picture, I see that you do not have a Supertrapp LC 4 exhaust but rather a euro can with a welded in endcap... If it was a supertrapp you would see the allen screws that hold the endcap/disks in place in this picture...

I had the same muffler and decided to buy an SXC muffler instead of drilling it due to the euro restriction. I was unsure how to do it properly and thought it would just be simpler, easier and better to buy an SXC muffler used. The SXC can's are not very expensive, and most of the time are in decent and good condition. I got my SXC muffler for 90€ incl. shipping. Ebay is your friend with these.

Thanks you two for the info. So you wouldn't make a few holes in that end cap you see in the picture?
Yep, 90€ is a fine price. I did look for an SXC at ebay but no luck so far.