690 Rally Replica questions...

There was experienced some leakage from rear brake switch, so a lot of people out there ride without, including KTM Rally Team. I got mine without as well, and we removed them from our 450 RR bikes.

All you need to do, is order 58511051100, change it for rear banjo bolt on brake caliper. Wire goes all the way along brake hose and you should find suitable available plug somewhere about 10cm over rear brake pump. My bike is same breed as yours, missing all signal light wiring, different frame, but I am sure rear brake connector will be there.

About FIM requirement, hmmmm.. At scrutiniering when French folks touch your rear brake to control if it will light, you secretly pump front brake.

I did talked to engine guy in KTM Rally about problem, and his solution was typical Rally Team: change whole clutch.
They never gave the problem more attention, when it appeared, they changed plates, inner hub and / or basket. I changed my plates and it gave no result, I am not changing basket or hub after I checked price tag on those parts.

I do though learned how to move the bike, one just need to hold it a few seconds slightly slipping so oil will be distributed between plates, and then it is possible to engage with full power. I know it is just avoiding problem, something I hate to do, but with this bloody rain season in Norway it is just no time to test more.

I use same method, but I rarely need to slip that clutch aggressively since I don't ride competition style. When I bought this beast I was a dedicated 85/15 tarmac & gravel touring dude with aboslutely no background from enduro or mx riding.

To avoid the physically closed private gravel roads near the Oslo area and get that beast flying for hours on gravel I have to ride at least 1-2 hours away and seek less populated mountain areas. One of my favourites is Jotunheimen or Golsfjellet south of Hemsedal. There you can ride for days on excellent gravel and surprisingly good two-lane dirt roads.

Hi gerduro,i will get some photos of the switch/wiring for brakelight switch from my bike,its a bike that has adr and has rego in australia.

... Thanks for the insight !

That would be great thanks !

690 manual cam tensioner
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Just finished testing a manual cam tensioner, unlike others this has been designed especially for the 690.
Beware some others that are available will not fit the 690 and are specific to the 450/250 engines only.If you see 450/250f in the fitment list then these will not work.

The standard Hydraulic tensioner can fail if oil changes are not kept regular or if there has been contamination in the motor, common issues are rattly engine on cold start up and extreme cases the lack of tension can cause the timing to change, ie chain jumps on the cam sprockets which can damage the valves and in extreme cases a lot worse. Also at peak RPM the high oil pressure can cause excessive tension on the cam chain which means wear to the valve drive system and power loss through engine drag.
The Manual tensioner is easy to fit by any competent mechanic and could not be simplier in design, unless you forget to tighten it nothing can go wrong, unlike other systems which require a combination of springs and oil pressure, if you are able to check and adjust your valve clearances you can fit this, full instructions are supplied, it takes no more than 1 hour to do the job properley.




We have now developed a CNC machined Manual Cam Chain Tensioner to replace the hydraulically operated standard unit,this will give a definite form of adjustment,with no possibility of movement whilst running at high revs.
Price to be £58.30 plus VAT(if in EU) and delivery.
Available from stock in 2/3 weeks.<!-- <small> This entry was posted on Thursday, September 1st, 2011 at 4:54 pm and is filed under New Products. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site. </small>
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Q1: Are we talking cross-compatibility for all 690 engines here or just the 690RFR/RR?

Q2: Does this also fit all the 690RR engine sizes - i.e. 654cc, 689cc, 730cc and 790cc?

Will fit all 690 based engines.

The Rally engines only has a few upgraded parts from the standard engine

Had a beautiful and challenging gravel&dirt road trip this weekend. I agree with 690rr on the clutch - it's close to useless for delicate, slow-moving slippery surface climbing. When used in a slow, gradually feeding manner with some throttle on slippery surface, this clutch goes screaming like a metallic banshee and goes on/off, in my case with a stalling engine. Obviously out of its element.:eek1

No good for advanced, slippery woodroads. This thing is designed for other arenas.

Edit:

I'll step away from the Motul used by the workshop at last service. Nowhere near 690rr's problems, but my usage is somewhat limited by the banshee-wail-and-dump-enganging clutch action. I realized during these two days of enthusiastic off-tarmac riding: --> The gearbox works surprisingly well with just clutchless gear shifts! <--

Especially in standing attack position this was remarkably smooth. On slow-riding at autumn-moisted, slippery woodroads, however - the clutch action became a cumbersome and undelicate on/off experience. Get stuck in a steep uphill or slope and I was basically out of luck. This thing demands an aggressive, constantly rolling riding style without any dependance on delicate clutch slippage to get out of trouble.

I'm sensing a steep learning curve here

Hola hombre,

could you ask please the mecanic from Pal Anders ( or himself ) which oil he used and what he did against the noisy chattering from the clutch. And how many times he changed the whole clutch or only some parts of the clutch ?

Thanks a lot

M.

Chattering clutch problem is gone with an extra inner disk in basket, forget abouth oil brand.
I have more than 20.000km on mine after I fixed the clutch, in all form of riding condition and weather.
warm desert dunes to nothern winter and snow.
Playing in tight areas first and second gear adusting tight turn with clutch, no problem ever.
this weekend 950km with 80% gravel and paths. no problems only fun with this terrain Goldwing

Extra disk in clutch sounds cool, but how is that accomplished?
That is; where exactly do you place it in the clutch plate sequence (1st or 5th etc.) and is longer bolts required etc.

as I wrote "extra innerdisk" means the first you put in.
this is altso known as a "get home solution" when you burn your clutch/slipping, put one extra inn get more pressure and ride home ripp the existing if nessesery.

picture from last round trip

Hi HP,

I am still not clear ...

is the Main Jet 160, Needle OBDYU, Idle Jet 45
or
Main Jet 168, Needle OBDVT, Idle Jet 42

correct ???

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="contentsTopics">.... anyone is looking for a dust light ... I think this is similar to the new 450 RR ....


LED Mini-Rücklicht Fender</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="main">Art.Nr.: 255-077</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td width="320"> <table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="1"> <tbody><tr> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> <td valign="bottom"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="200"> <tbody><tr> <td class="main" height="40" valign="middle" width="15"> </td> <td class="main" valign="middle" width="160">

Produktdatenblatt drucken​

</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" class="main"> </td> </tr> <tr class="decoration"> <td colspan="2"></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" class="main">Alle Preise inkl. Mwst.
und zuzüglich Versandkosten.
-----------------------------------
Lieferzeit: 3-4 Tage</td> </tr> <tr class="decoration"> <td colspan="2"></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" class="details_preis">Ihr Preis: 15,95 EUR</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="2" width="220"> <tbody><tr class="decoration"> <td height="20" width="40"><input name="products_qty" value="1" size="3" type="text">
</td> <td height="20"><input src="http://www.tlo-bikeshop.de/templates/triline/buttons/german/button_in_cart.gif" alt="In den Warenkorb" title=" In den Warenkorb " type="image"></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr class="decoration"> <td colspan="2"></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="2" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="main">Beschreibung:</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="2" width="100%"> <tbody><tr class="decoration"> <td background="templates/triline/img/line.gif"></td> </tr> <tr class="decoration"> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table> LED Mini-Rücklicht zum Befestigen auf Fender bzw. Heckplastik
schwarzer Körper, rotes Glas, E-geprüft
Maße incl. Gummiunterlage: ca. 91 x 22 x 60mm
Unten sind zwei M4 Buchsen zum Befestigen. Abstand der Buchsen ca. 60mm


http://www.tlo-bikeshop.de/product_...cklichter-led/led-mini-ruecklicht-fender.html

I have one customer, whose son is competing Cross Kart here in Norway. He phoned me up few months ago with interest to buy KTM engine around 660cc for next year season. Couple of phone calls, few levers pushed and result is 730 engine, 738cc of raw power, same thing that costed Ullevålseter 2 x 6.500 € to rent in 2010 Dakar, when they had to use restrictors.

It will be brought to Maroc rally next week and Ullevålseter will bring it home at the end of the October.

Curves are from Dyno run at factory site this Friday, standard head, Rally exhaust and air box.

Red is 730, black 654 (standard 690 RR engine), both fed by 41mm Keihin.

do you know where I can buy the parts to make my 690 caburated instead of fuel injected?
or the 730 motor complete?
thanks

Hmm.
Main jet: 158
Needle: OBEKF?

Is that for BOTH the 730 and the 654?

690RR said:

Hello 690RR, are you able to share with us the bore and stroke of the 738cc engine?

Cheers
Pilbara