You could do worse than than take a peek at Gregor's thread... you'll need a few days spare to read it all, but there's a lot of very interesting information in there. If you've not the time, the short version is an open exhaust with less restrictive collectors, convert to FCR 41 carbs and fit appropriate 'velocity stacks'... probably more too, but I forget more than I remember these days. The thread is here http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=461267 Cheers... Paul
Interesting question. Horsepower is an engineering term. A theory. If the true question is "how can I make my bike go faster" the answer is almost universal: Training and practice. One could certainly make an argument for better suspension as well.
...awesome responses... My thoughts: Intake - Foam Filter (Either SW7 of CRP Fab) Exhaust - Lighter/Free flowing (Wings, LeoVince, Akras, etc...) Mapping - Use Tune ECU to turn off EPC, Powertripp Map worked best on My bike. These combined modifications will make the bike breathe much better all around.
Yup the three that will gain you the most without spending thousands are: -Rottweiler Air Filter Intake System -Free-flowing exhaust (Akra, Leo Vince, FMF, etc.) -Re-map of ECU (preferably by a pro dyno shop or by using Power Commander V with Auto Tune module. (Tune ECU is the cheap but also effective route) The combination of these three, of course done properly, will gain you 12 or 13 horsepower. Again, depending how correctly you do it, you'll go from a bike with 113 hp stock to a bike with 125 or 126 hp. In my opinion, any sub 500lb bike with over 100hp is more than enough for the average joe. But for those of us who want more for less than $1,000, doing the above mods will not only gain you 12 or 13 hp, it will substantially increase your power to weight ratio, which is what in the end matters most. You can talk horsepower all day, but if your weight goes up linearly with your horsepower, performance gains are nil. That's what kills me about the horsepower wars with adventure bikes these days. The horsepower is what's going up, yes, but you also gain quite a bit more weight on these new 'huge class' adventure bikes as well. Therefore the overall performance gains are not quite as stellar as they'd lead you to believe. It's all marketing. And all the manufacturers want you to hear is HORSEPOWER! Now, on the other hand, if you drop weight while adding horsepower, that's where real performance gains occur. Adding 12-13 hp while dropping 12-15 lbs by getting a lighter exhaust system and installing the Rottweiler intake system, which removes 6 or 7 lbs of SAS junk, is what will do this for you. Adding hp while staying the same weight will never give the performance gains that adding hp and losing weight will. Of course the cheapest performance gain is to lose some body weight! Myself included! Cheers and good luck.
I think Chris Has some Numbers but there is also a lot of different configurations on that 2-2 or 2-1 with different cans on each depending on what you want. Best $ per HP is the Rottweiler and a tune. Night and day difference
it's not like it's a race bike. I don't see many actual dyno charts for the ADV bikes comparing the stock to modified version or even a real chart with AF ratios very often. basically there's few times you get to go side by side where you will tell a difference. I know my SE will out accellerate most other ADV bikes but it's got a foam filter, open exhaust, jetted correctly, is lighter, and I like to pin it to the stops often. but like any bike, everyone has given you the basics, intake and exhaust. if you really want to open it up, get some head work done at a reputable shop, check into cams and timing, tuning the FI, lighter/bigger pistons, etc. etc. My friends 675 triple was putting out 130hp at the rear wheel. but it was peaky. I'd prefer broad powerband in a dirt bike. :)
In my spotty youth I worked for a race team with clear restrictions on the engine. You want HP open your wallet, blue printed engine with polished heads and ports and gas flowed exhaust will give you an instant noticeable increase.... This is where all race engines start from.
I have a 2013 and I have been playing with just about every bolt on power part I can get my hands on. One of the first things I did was uncork the intake. You can run the CPR intake with a block off kit and right there alone you will make a huge increase in power. CPR will also help you get the right map from Tune ECu or PC. Most noticeably is the instant bottom end pop you will get. I would also recommend at least replacing the exhaust cans. I chose the FMF Ti cans here: http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/BikeAsList/2013_KTM_990ADVENTUREBAJA Check out this dyno chart for the intake alone: