I would say that its not a fuse issue, but rather a design issue. The fuse is designed to blow when it gets over a certain current. If it sits just under that, it gets hot, but not quite hot enough to melt the fuse material. You will also see the same issue when the contacts in the fuse holder are dirty/corroded or the contacts are underrated. Possibly a combination of the 2.
Electrical tape Possibly wire colour Solder joint without strain relief ============== The problem for that fuse holder is poor contact, that combined with current produces heat that has melted the thing. If you want to avoid this - check the contact pressure - is it hard or easy to insert the fuse? Does it get warm/hot - feel by hand with what ever it powers 'on'.
+ 1 wire looks like it melted the insulation & is insulated with black tape. I'd rip it all apart & start again. Top of the list after that would be to measure the current draw.
Use heat shrink instead of insulation tape. Alot neater and easier to get a nice clean look that will last longer Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2
had the same problem , burnt out fuse block , cheap chinese fuses not blowing at the rated specifcations , checked the packet of fuses all blade fuses seem to have the same size wire (guage ) for different amperage , threw them out and bought Brand name , no problems since
scientific observation? Not saying they are all good, but often the differences are subtle. I have seen the damage in the photo many times, with high quality fuses. I just wonder what that fuse is for, because 9 times out of 10 you see that in headlight wiring.
Is that grey tape "metallised duct tape" ? Seen plenty of builders use it on building sites and the tape can become 'LIVE' You should use 'insulation tape' my 2 cents worth