Hi Greg, that looked to be the start of it. Ultimately, when I called you, the issue was that when I put the clutch cover on, it wouldn't let the engine turn. It actually dented the bushing in the hole that the crank sits in. So i think my crank got out of alignment and wasn't running true anymore. That was on the 90 engine. In my hopes to rebuild the 93 instead, I ran into the gunk and dragging crank bearings, which (I think) should be replaced, not just flushed out. It's a mess. It's a great bike, but I just seem to keep ordering tools just to find out I need to go deeper, and with the little one I only have so much time. Figured maybe someone around would be better fit.
I would think the easiest way to get the tank mounted would be to contact Acerbis and see if they can send you a kit. I think they are an Italian company after all. ACERBIS ITALIA SpA - Via Serio, 37 - 24021 - Albino (BG) - Italy Phone: +39(0)35773577 - Fax: +39(0)35773570 VAT: 00862020161 If you search for my name and acerbis I did a little write up several months back and and have a picture of the mounts along with the dimensions. The threaded coupler will be easy to fabricate. The mounting pucks harder. Let me know what you end up doing. I am in need of a mounting kit as well.
The bike is currently all stock. I have not tried to see if the idle hands after richening up the mixture screw (it's raining fairly hard). I found this link VERY helpful. http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?344-CV-carburettors-They-re-different By following the starting procedure from the manual (go figure...) the bike starts in 3-4 kicks. 1. Hold in the decompression and give it about 10 kicks to "prime" everything 2. Choke it, pull the lever again until it clicks, and give it a hard kick making sure to follow through (not like a 2 stroke jab). Stay off the throttle! 3. If no choke is needed, use the same process in #2, but give it about a quarter throttle.
That's a pretty good explanation, but IIRC our carb does not have those extra "transition ports". Maybe someone who has a carb off the bike can confirm, but I think I looked for a transition port when I had mine apart and didn't see one. Some carbs have them, they are on the air cleaner side of the butterfly when it's closed. The idle port is on the motor side of the butterfly. My FZ1 has the transition ports and I have actually drilled some of them bigger to improve throttle response, along with a few other changes that SEEMS to have made improvements and smoother performance. On our CV carb I think the transition from idle to mid range is a function of the needle, needle valve and main jet. That's why the idle fuel jet and idle air jet size and idle screw setting are critical. It's a simple carb with a minimum number of circuits and works very good when things are right. Kinda like this..... http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/757411-fd-up-my-dr350-carbplease-help/
Hello to all. I am the proud owner of a 1992 DR 350 S that I got two years ago in a bit of rough shape. Been gathering great information here for quite a while as I've been bringing her to a more respectable condition, and for that I want to thank you all. I decided to actually join today as finally I have some info that can be useful to some. I was in the same situation as some of you who have purchased used Acerbis 16lt tanks that came without the mounting hardware. I've sent an email to Acerbis Italy enquiring them about the possibility of buying this kit separately but never got a reply from them. Fortunately I've also sent an online shop I found that sold Acerbis tanks (10hp.it) the same question, and they were able to source the mounting hardware for the DR 350 tank. It cost me 29 for the kit, but it came with all the bolts, the engine mounts, fuel hoses and with two petcocks as well. They were really nice at that shop and very quick replying to emails. I'll have a go at trying to post pictures and if I can I'll upload a few so that you can see the serial numbers of the kit and maybe it will make searching for it easier...
Thank-you very much Vaz, your advice is very helpful! I think I'll act the same way, so I can get the whole kit with one purchase instead of getting it piece-by-piece. You had a pretty good idea to post the serial-code for the kit, the work it's gonna be easier with that!
Changing the shock spring. I want to put a different spring on the rear of my wife's 95 DR350. I looked at the rear shock briefly and discovered that it does not have a split collar on it. Do I need to bleed the N2 out of it and unbolt the remote hose? If I have to do that, I may take the shock apart and figure out how to lower the rear of the bike an inch or two for her also.
Not really priming as you're not introducing extra fuel, just getting things 'flowing'. Ten does seem excessive, although three or four kicks with compression release held and WOT, before I turn the ignition on seems to help my DR to light off easier.
progress report: waiting on a few parts to arrive in the mailbox the remounting went 100% faster than the un-mounting process, i am a complete newbie to bikes and this is really my first wrenching on this bike(any bike)....it all started with an oil change
With my old 1993 kick start only model, it needed about 10 priming kicks with the pumper carb and about 15 priming kicks with the CV carb. That was cold...once hot it usually lit up with the first or second real kick. Regards, Gregory Bender
There is a split washer. Hard to see when it is on the bike. Once you back off the preload collar the bottom will come apart. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24907030&postcount=25734 From a couple of days ago.
Hi MrPulldown, thank for your reply! I already saw your picture with dimensional specification, it was very useful, and before asking here for help I was trying to built it reading your instruction, but I couldn't findbolts like that in any shop, nor the biggest of my (little) city. So I decided to follow VaZ's hint: I called on phone 10hp.it and ordered the kit directly from them. It costs more or less 30 euros and it contains all the necessary as the other friend was showing in his pictures. I think it's more expensive than a self-built kit, but it's easier and faster! I'll have it in my hands in 1 week.
I would agree that buying the kit from Acerbis is the easiest way to go. The threaded coupler part is easy. Though moist hardware stores in the USA would have only SAE threaded couplers, I could have also changed the bolt to match the threads. Or ordered a metric version on-line (I too live in a small town). But the steel centered rubber mounting puck would have been much more difficult to source. Having spare petcocks is nice too. Those plastic acerbis petcocks are not very durable. I have had a flying rock break one of mine.
