New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Watts = Amps x Volts

Thanks pumps and ORexpat. Exactly what I was looking for.

I have a nice 01 coming up for sale. Nice accessories, super perfect w/17k miles. Bought it from the original owner when it had 3k miles. Just wanted to do an early heads up to my fellow W enthusiasts.
Barry

If you weren't so far away I'd jump on that!

Hey pumps, tried to send you a message but got a message that said you do not receive private messages. Regardless, thanks for the offer, but I have a copy of the manual at home. I just happen to be very far from home, and was looking to order a Gerbing jacket liner. Again, thanks for answering my question.

Nomad

Photo's ?

I hate it when the manual only gives one (mostly useless) data point. You won't be spending much time at 7,500 RPM, unless your riding style is the exact opposite of what this bike was built for.

Is it the KLR where the Wattage is given at a higher RPM than the bike will spin?

Yep. Pretty good document at http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

18A at 14V equals 252W at 7500RPM

Pretty weak output.

I typically run a Signal Dynamics voltage monitor, which is a spiffy little microchip behind a single LED. Small and easy to mount unobtrusively, it's a great way to keep an eye on marginal charging systems.
I'll put one on the W, heated gear is a requirement when you ride year round in CO.

My R1150GS Adv put out upwards of 700w, it was able to push a pair of PIAA's, heated grips, Gerbing liners x2, and not blink an eye (except at a low idle).

My GL1800 put out something like 1100w, you could light a small ball field with that bike

Allright. I hate my seat, and I'm looking for feedback from others who hated their seat but found an acceptable solution. My W is a 2000 with the smooth seat cover and stock high bars. I find myself sitting right on the ridge of the seat that occurs exactly wear the seat latches to the bike. Also, the forward slant of the seat results in junk to tank contact. FYI, I'm 5'11" with a 33" inseam. I see my options as follows:

1) Have someone local rebuild the seat.
2) Corbin gunfighter
3) Something expensive from Japan, Germany, etc.
4) Increase my butt toughness.

Options I'm not willing to try include: Sheep skins, Walmart atv seat pads, hemorrhoid cushions.

I hear people say that the 2001 and later seat is more comfortable. Isn't it the same seat with a different cover?

Anyone have a Corbin they want to sell?

Thanks

Nomad

Put the Kawasaki low bars on (or any superbike bend bar). This changes where you sit on the seat, no longer on the ridge and in a much more comfortable spot nearer the front of the seat. I did this on mine, noticeable improvement.

Eventually went to a Corbin Gunfighter but the handlebar change is less expensive and was something I could live with If I had to.

Agree on the handlebars--that's by far the best first step--and much cheaper if you go with the el-cheapo Bikemaster bars like I did.

Now that I know I really prefer lower bars, I'd not hesitate to buy a better-quality bar if the current setup rusts too much, or some such thing.

I've got a Corbin Gunfighter on mine, bought used through an inmate. I find the firm saddle much comfortable than stock, but wouldn't mind having just a small layer of softer foam over the hard stuff. Plus, I've discovered that the hard seat actually blurs my vision at higher revs--believe it's just my glasses vibrating ever so slightly!

I may try to re-do the stock seat sometime myself, but will never go back to the original seat as-delivered. I call it the "one hour wedgie seat."

jmlmjmjm and ORexpat, thanks for the insight. Low bars are on my Christmas wish list. Anybody think getting the legit kawasaki bars are worth the cost?

Nope :huh Total joke at that price!

All you'll need to do is re-route the cables/hose & cut a few spacer shims for converting from 1" down to 7/8" bars.



Also agree the seat is trash - my bike is an early model with big knee-pads & uncomfy seat...... butt (sic) I find its not too bad with the lower bars

You can purchse the slimmer knee-pads from the later models. Easy fix, not to expensive, more comfort.

Supposedly they heard the complaints about the '00 seat and made other changes than just the cover to the '01 seat.

Also changed other items in response to complaints, including the angle of the gauges, the diameter of the front axle, and some others which I can't remember. Also offered a low bar kit in other parts of the world.

Seems like after all those changes they would have kept it here for a few more years.

In response to lower bars, I bought the Bikemaster Euro bars, which were the closest specs to the factory low bar.

Get it here for $27 delivered. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221110686305?item=221110686305&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

I like the thick knee pads 'cause they give me something solid to grip when the bike used to go all wiggly on me, before I put new tires on.

So it was 31 degrees out this mornin' when I took the Dub out for a 30 minute romp. Jacket at about half, gloves almost full hot. Battery stayed charged, no issues at all. I did turn the jacket down at stop lights.

Worked like a champ!

ORexpar,
Good report on the heated jacket and gloves.
I just wore my mesh jacket here in SW Florida for my ride out to the ranch to mow some weeds down.

I resisted putting on the '01 (slim) kneepads for 10 years for the same reason. Just recently got some and put them on, and wonder why the heck I waited. They look so much better than the '00 version.