Team-need some help here getting the Installed Gap figured out with the Rekluse Core EXP clutch on my Son's bike. We bought a new '12 250SXF with a Rekluse Core EXP installed from the very start. Jr. completely smoked the clutch on a ride awhile back after getting stuck on a sand bar way deeper than the front and rear axle (but that's another funny story). The drive plates and friction plates were toast so we replaced them with new. I've watched the Rekluse installation vids until I'm blue in the face, I'm doing what they say to do, am adjusting what they say to adjust, but still can't get the Free Play Gain adjusted....at all. Using the Dial-A-Gap adjuster, the Rekluse instructions say to find the starting point by turning the Dial-A-Gap clockwise until it lightly seats itself. Then the directions say to continue turning the Dial-A-Gap clockwise another full turn in plus two ticks using a 5mm allen wrench. I've done this correctly. Now to verify the Free Play Gain, with the bike in neutral, you start the bike, and with light pressure on the clutch lever you blip the throttle a few times up to roughly 5k rpm to confirm the end of the clutch lever moves in or collapses 1/8". The instructions and vids say that if the lever doesn't move in, turn the Dial-A-Gap CCW two ticks out and check for the Free Play Gain again. We did this. Still no movement of the clutch lever We've turned the Dial a gap out a total of 6 tick marks out from that 1.2 turns in from the Starting Point and the clutch lever still doesn't move in at all. I don't want to screw anything up. Does anyone have any helpful hints? Do I try 8 tick marks? 10 tick marks out? Big Thanks for your input! Dirty
More adjustment probably isn't the answer. Does the clutch work manually? If not fix it. I seem to recall a special mention of hydraulic clutches in the Rekluse instructions, but I've only used it on cable clutches.
Sounds like you're following the instructions .......... but, the key question is, like the previous poster,'"does the clutch work manually?" It may be working right but you just don't understand the "feel" that you're looking for. I adjust mine by the way that it engages. With the lever pulled, and with the lever out. We need more information about how it's reacting before I can detirmine which way to go. Also if he smoked the clutch, it's possible that the EXP disc is toast too. I've had both cable type and hydraulic type clutches with Rekluse EXP's in them. There is a different "feel"to the hydraulic.
Don't blip the throttle, rev it up to the 5k and hold it constant. Also are you putting too much or too little pressure on the lever with your hand? It can be hard to tell.
I do know what the Free Play Gain feels like from my '04 YZ 450 (a cable actuated clutch bike) with what is now known as the Z-Start Pro. On that bike, plain as day, you rev it up just a little and you can feel the slack taken up with just a slight bit of pressure on the clutch lever as all of those ball bearings get slung out. You set those things with a feeler gauge. I installed this thing pushing 10 years back and have never had to replace or adjust anything clutch related with that version. The Rekluse we have on my Sons bike is the Core EXO 2.0, and instead of the new fangled allen head adjuster on the clutch slave (down by the counter sprocket), you have to remove the clutch cover, loosen the 4mm hex screws, and turn what they call the Dial-A-Gap with a 5mm hex head CW or CCW. This setup is nowhere near as easy or quick as a hex head adjuster on the slave. They did try to sell me that setup Friday afternoon over the phone but I declined their advances. They are nice and patient on the phone though. Thanks Guys for jumping in to try and offer up some help. I'll get out to the shop in tomorrow and piddle around with it a bit more. Maybe I need to let it idle until the engine case gets fully hot-the wife does laugh at me when I use the leaf blower on the dirt bike radiators. Dirty
If you set it to their recommended setting it should be fine anyway? In fact I have just set mine to 1 turn MINUS 2 ticks, instead of the + 2 ticks, trying to get rid of that winding up a rubber band feeling. If you set the gap to their recommended minimum of 1 turn then you should be fine also with a larger margin of error. Remember the smaller the installed gap the less likely you would be to burn out the clutch.
From the "Starting Point" I had it set to 1 turn plus 2 ticks CW turned in and after we went out to the track (he's no Johnny Racer Hot Dog Rider by any stretch), 15 minutes later, the bike wouldn't move while in gear. We got it back to the house and all of the new drive plates had turned blue from getting hot. Thankfully, the friction pads on the Rekluse still measure within spec and still have a darkish green color to them. I'll head back outside and try just one full turn CW from the starting point and drop it into gear to check for creep. Thanks for the input! Dirty
I rode my WR250F today set at only 1/2 turn in, against Rekluse' recommendation, and liked it the best of any setup I've tried. It drags at a stop unless I pull the lever in, but was much less intrusive at low speed on/off throttle riding and the engine never stalled all day in brushy single track and gnarly rock gardens. I'm using the bike for technical single track, not racing.
I've posted the same issue on a few forums and that seems to be the ticket what you just said. Gonna try one turn in less one tick and see how she rides. Dirty
Yep just ride it today at 1 turn - 2 ticks and it is 100% better. I'm going to keep turning it out till it stalls the go back a tick or 2 :)
