The Montesa Cota 4RT Thread

I don't have one on mine, but I have ridden one with one. It is just like my Berg. It is really nice in extreme conditions. REALLY slippery or really good traction. In mud it is really nice to be able to run a nice soft curve. On grippy rock it is nice to be able to take advantage of the grip.

In the middle it is not as noticeable.

That's about all I have.

That makes sense, didn't consider a setting for mud v's Dry.

Well at this point I have a lot more things on the get list that are much lower cost level to get before I start considering this one but it could move to the possible future list... we will see.

Thanks for the info!

while fixing a fork seal leak today I discovered some part interchanges I wanted to share.

The 39mm Showa fork shares both the oil seal and upper bushing with all sportsers made since 87. The seals Lewisport sent me were an All Balls 55-113.

After I got the old seal out I saw that the upper bushing needed to be replaced. I found a bushing at my local HD dealer part number 45461-87. Only $5.50 too!! Now I can ride this week

Anyone else have issues with your rear brake? It seems like mine is always spongy and possibly leaking fluid before the m/c. Today I found the reservoir empty for the 3rd time in 18months. Tomorrow I'm going try to back bleed the system from the caliper.

That is some leak you have there. I would check for cracks in the reservoir, as well as seals between the reservoir and the master. Keep an eye out for the M/S seals as well. Good luck! :huh

Not sure if this is relevant, but I found that the hose from the master cylinder to the reservoir on my '08 was collapsing under suction and causing the brake to intermittently stick and other odd symptoms. Replacing this line improved my brake feel and performance dramatically.

Good call on back bleeding. I found bleeding with a syringe from the caliper up to the reservoir the only way to get all of the air out.

Cheers!

Well I got the rear brake bled. We will see how long it keeps. I would highly suggest to anyone needed to do the same to invest in a 60cc cathidor tip syringe to pressure bleed the system. I picked one up at the local farm supply co-op for $1.95 It was pretty easy and straight forward.

I removed the reservoir and stuck the syringe into the reservoir hose and pushed the fluid thru the system. I them kept pressure on the syringe and cracked each banjo bolt one and a time to purge any trapped air. I then re-installed the reservoir and pushed fluid from the caliper back up the system to remove any air in the reservoir line. Now the brake feels better than it ever has. I don't know if I'll be able to get the pedal position as low as I'd like it, but maybe I can retrain myself to move my foot.

Bought me an 80 hr 2005 and am loving this bike. Any idea where to find a larger rear sprocket, say 47-48 tooth?

Not near Ok, but I got mine from Don (montesa importer), who I would highly recommend:

http://www.cascade-motorsports.com/

One owner bike, excellent condition, has optional seat for trail rides.

Cc: nomail32@charter.net

Well I did myself in the other weekend by getting somthing stuck in the fan and didn't know tell I shorted out the fan motor.

Got the parts and put everything back together tonight but had to drain the coolant to do it. Not sure what to put back in the bike... Previous owner had some kind of blue-ish coolant in there I have not seen before. :huh

Recommendations or at least a brand to match what is in there now?

I am in withdrawals and need my fix... Help!!!

Thanks in advance!

Ask Honda?

all you need is 50/50 mix that is formulated for alum engines, from a bike shop I would suggest. I also use a little bit of "racing" water conditioner (used to be called something like "water wetter"). unknown what it is now, though, never paid attention to the bottle.

It sounds like Engine Ice, which is a propylene glycol based coolant. It would be best to ask the former owner if possible. There are waterless coolants available (Evans) that do not mix with water, so you do need to be carefull.

Sounding like maybe good to just flush and refill as I don't have the former owners contact info any more. Was trying to avoid that but guess not this time.

Subaru coolant is blue and designed for aluminum motors, since I had some on hand that is what I used this summer to refill mine, maybe that's what the previous owner did as well.

I was able to flush and put in new, things are back up and running, and the test run was a go!

The addiction continues.

Over at TC there is a discussion about intake derestriction and pink wire (ground) mod. I have an 05 that was bought new here in the US. Not sure if this is a viable mod or if it may have been done by the dealer or PO. Anyone here familiar with this mod and could provide any detail?

KrAzy's request has to do with specifically HOW the mods are done. I went to the TC discussion, but the detail is garbled and incomplete.

Though no 4RT expert, I can add a bit on this particular bike, as I've had ridden it many times and been involved in the setup.

The bike is a really nice `05. It starts and runs well. It doesn't break traction as easily in dry conditions as a de restricted 2005 I rode. It is also not obnoxiously loud like a de restricted 2005, so I assume the exhaust is still restricted. I don't know if the other mods were done, but I suspect not.

I sometimes ride with KrAzy around my NM cabin, where staying off the audio 'radar' is a positive thing. I have some interest in his being a quieter, rather than a louder, 4RT. Some questions:

Is popping an exhaust restrictor back in a fast mod?

I have heard in 2006 muffler was redesigned. Was that to eliminate the exhaust restrictor in 2006 while also bring noise level back in line?

What about doing all the mods except de restricting the exhaust? Separate from the brain being fooled by more noise=more power, is off idle snappiness and low end power really increased? My concern comes from de restricting 4 strokes in the past and finding loss of low end power, and in some case losses even after re jetting, with the stock muffler providing superior quality low end with less tendency to flame out.

I don't know about the specific mod. BUT, if you measure at pin 28 on the ECU (white/green wire) it would be short to ground if it is "stock", open if modded. I have an 07' that I have been modding, I will check that and see what it is. Not the answer, but will give you an idea.

I have nothing on the exhaust mod.

One thing I will add.
If it is not open, you can just pull the "pin" out of the connector with a really small flat screwdriver. Tape it so it doesn't touch anything and give it a ride.....

The thing that confuses me is that ECU's don't typically like ambiguity. It wants to see either gnd or Vcc (12V in this case). Leaving it floating gives it mixed signals.

Worth a shot though.

See what you think.