Suspension tuning for dummy's and noobs

So I recently installed a set of wp 50 extremes on my KLR. Freaking amazing difference in behavior. Now, I really want to tune and dial these in. They came off a 99 KTM 380. Springs are about .43-.44 kg springs as near as I can tell. I flushed them and put new 10 wt oil in. I have the rebound and compression set to 13 clicks. I KNOW I have to get heavier springs, but it's going to have to wait on funding. Until then, can I do anything about the brake dive? Should I put some spacers in and add preload? On a hard hard brake they ALMOST reach the triples, but everything seems to clear at the moment. I know I need to measure static,
Loaded, and unsprung sag, planning to do that tomorrow. Any helpful suggestions?

Call Race Tech before you do anything. I'm not familiar with those forks, but Race Tech makes their Gold Valve "Kit" for them.

You should be getting your braking anti-dive from the fork's hydraulics, not the springs.

I will have to look into it. It is for sure under sprung as well. Right now I am looking at what I can do to help until I have money to throw at it

I think you're on the right path of setting preload, but you if you don't care about the springs, you can cut a length of them off, increasing stiffness. Somewhere on the interwubs there's a formula for figuring out how much to cut to get to an appropriate spring weight. That's the ghetto way. Seeing as you're already running 10 wt oil, I'm not sure I would suggest going any higher. If you're not touching the triples on full load, I'd call it good and wait for the funds to come in for proper weighted springs.

Now, the question there is, do you just order appropriate springs for the KLR or the KTM that they came off of? How does the weight of the bikes differ? Does that effect the springs? These are probably questions for someone far more knowledgeable than I.

Keep in mind you may not think the springs are too soft after you fix the all-important fork hydraulics. Very briefly, Gold Valve emulators greatly stiffen things up at low compression fork speeds (hard braking), and soften them up on hard hits. Both are adjustable, but you have to remove them for it--at least for "normal" emulators.

In all probability you do NOT need new springs. As already noted, you can cut a few coils and use spacers. But do the hydraulic part first.

I will look at it. My bike is a good 200 lbs heavier than the bike these forks came off of

They used the same fork on the 2000 KTM 640 Adventure. On that model, they were sprung with .46 springs which were too light for someone your size. Send me a PM and I will get you the factory service manual. It lists oil weights and heights and valve settings which would probably be a good place to start. Those bikes are similar in weight so the settings should be close. Cannon Racecraft or Slavens Racing sell heavier springs, I think they recommended a 5.4N/mm for me at 250lbs.

I am an even 200 lbs right now with no gear. The KLR is about 390-410 depending on fuel. I will get a pm your way. Thanks for the help!

without correct spring rate, you're fighting a losing battle. you might get one issue fixed, but than another will pop up to take its place.

that being said, i assume you're dirt roading/street riding this bike, so if it were mine and i needed a temp fix, i'd chop 20% or so off the springs (depends on wind - if they are wound tight spacing you will lose spring travel...which may cause other issues..) and fix the length with a preload spacer. not the best way to do it, but it will work better than it does now.

the real solutions is call race tech, get some $100 springs and then go from there.

And I do agree and understand, and plan to order the springs as soon as I have the money. The build wiped
Out play money for the moment. Springs are not wound tight at all, but do seem to be progressive type at the bottom. Like I said, right now I am just needing an interm fix until I can really dive into them. I am getting some books and learning to do the work on my own, as opposed to paying a shop.

I do street ride, forest road, and single track this bike, so it sees a bit of everything.

looking at slavens site, what weight should I go with? or do I need to get all my sag measurements first?

I know this isn't very scientific but with a hybrid bike build you sorta just take your best shot.

As an example, I have 0.54 springs in my Ninja 650 build. I'm running KTM USD forks and my bike weighs 380# fueled and I'm 250 geared up. I think they are about perfect. I can tell by the dirt on the lowers how far I have compressed and under a full panic stop I can get maybe 1" away from full compression.

I agree that getting the right springs is the first step. Spending money and time revalving before you get the right springs is the wrong way to go IMHO.

I think most KTM dirt bikes that weigh 250 lbs and are sprung for 175# riders comes with the springs you listed. I have to think your KLR is pretty dang close to my bike in weight and I have a good 30-50 lbs on you so you can use that as a reference.

You probably do need new springs, but it sounds like these forks aren't really too far off. They're dead easy forks to service, so why not try putting in a pvc spacer to add some preload? I think it's a good place to start. Your forks are likely valved differently than the ones that came on the 640 E and Adventure. The WP 50s on those bikes worked great. Look around for the valve stacks on those bikes and try to recreate it on your bike if you want a setup for a heavier bike. You can probably get it done for $30 or $40 worth of shims from MX Tech. You don't need Racetech valves, the valve bodies on this fork work great, and ktm/WP have already tuned these forks very well for a heavy bike (the 640 ADV), you just need to move your forks towards those settings.

If KTM/WP did such a good job hydraulically, why does the OP get so much braking dive?

Because I put them on a 400 pound KLR, not a 200 pound exc

Braking dive resistance is mostly fork-speed related. But you go ahead and play with the springs. Have fun.

Okay, I know it needs BOTH to be done right. Quit getting pissed off at everyone's input. I am taking your as seriously and theirs.

If it's grossely under sprung, it's also spring related.

The spring weight/sag has to be correct first. Don't ask us, call race tech or other reputable suspension guru.

Of course it is, but that can be fixed for free if one has a good hacksaw and some PVC.