I installed the Denali D2's today. Before I tucked everything up and put the plastic back on the lights were working fine and no lamp fault. As soon as it was buttoned up and ready to roll, I turned the key on and now there is a LAMP fault on the computer. What exactly does the lamp fault mean? All lights are working and so is everything else. Any help or suggestions?
It is hooked up through the canbus. The part that pisses me off is that I didn't get the Lamp fault until I had everything put back together. As I was putting it back together I kept checking to make sure everything worked and got no fault. I just wonder what exactly the fault means. So I don't have to go back through and check every connection, if I knew what it means when it show a fault I could go straight to the problem.
Did you use the Canbus adapter that we (Twisted Throttle) sells? This should solve your problem. If not, Please call our customer service number: 855-255-5550 the guys who pick up there can troubleshoot the issue for you. Kevin
Sometimes Canbus has to think about it for a bit before complaining. Kinda like a slow blow fuse. What did you wire it to? A 55W headlight plus 20W for lamps (10x2) is like a 40% overdraw from what Canbus expects so it says WTF! Lamp! If you want them to come on with the headlight then you need a relay setup. Although the basic LAMP indication is there, a GS911 or the dealer computer could read the exact fault. No draw/overdraw on X system.
Yes, I used the canbus adapter from TT. Like I say, I was not getting a fault at first, but now I am. The question remains, since all the lights work and everything is working like it is supposed to, what do I do to satisfy the fault?
What does it mean, "... hooked up through the canbus"? I installed my Denali D2D lights without problem (other than the bracket for the switch that TT sold me does NOT fit the 2013 F800GS and I had to have it machined smaller to fit). I had used the TT Canbus adaptor to get a trigger wire for my fuse panel, so I already had that, and I hooked another wire up to the high beam light (so that I would have the dual-intensity feature) and instead of connecting the power leads directly to the battery as they suggested, I cut off the connectors and lengthened the wires (soldered and heat shrink tubing) and connected to my fuse panel. The whole thing works like a charm without any CanBus issues.
I wish I could help more but the guys in customer service can handle this issue for you. They know electricity and the Canbus system far better than I. My suggestion ask for Matt W when you get on the phone. Kevin
Ok, so you're using the TT Canbus adapter for trigger (white) wire. How did you connect the blue wire for high beam? And did you connect the power leads directly to the battery or somewhere else? You're saying that everything works, but you get that fault indication? Low beam, high beam, D2D's? Do you have it hooked up as single (high) or dual intensity? (You have the option during install.)
The white wire is connected to the canbus adapter and the low beam wire right at the bulb. The blue wire is tapped into the high beam wire right at the bulb, it is wired for dual intensity and that works fine. The leads are connected to the battery as per instructions.
This has been bugging me all day - you said: "The white wire is connected to the Canbus adapter and the low beam wire" If you have the white wire going to BOTH the pigtail on the Canbus adapter AND the low beam you will cause a fault. Since I am not a tech I wanted you to go through the steps with them because I may have missed something critical. The head tech has no recollection of speaking with you today so I wanted to put that out there before the end of the work day. Try removing the connection to the low beam. This should resolve the issue. Kevin
Thanks Kevin. I did call and talk to a guy, but it was not Matt. I told him exactly how I had it wired and he said, "Yep, that's how I'd do it." I could never get an answer to that question in my many e-mails with customer service. I was basically told to connect the white wire to the canbus adapter and then just follow the directions for the install of the lights, and the install says the white wire goes to the low beam. For someone who understands electrical systems this is probably obvious, but I told them I don't understand electrical systems, but I can follow directions. And that is what I did. I have been wondering this whole time, "Should it be connected to both?". But the lights worked so I left it. You are probably right. I will make that change when I get home and let you know. The lights are COOL, by the way.
FIXED. Working like a charm and no lamp fault. White wire to canbus adapter only, blue wire on high beam bulb. All tucked and looking nice. The reason I did not get a fault prior to finishing up is because I was just turning on the key which does not turn on the low beam light. When started the low beam came on and that is where I got the fault. We are good now.
Great news! I wish I had checked on this sooner. I was curious to know if you had come to a resolution. Now that they are working and (I assume) you have had a chance to use them - How do they perform? Kevin
Kevin, I got to use them for about 60 miles of actual darkness. Here is my honest reply. (warning it starts out not so positive and turns positive) Having zero experience with aux lights on a motorcycle, honestly I was looking for that "HOLY %HIT" moment when turning them off and on revealed a whole new world, I didn't get that. Second, the 10 degree beam is much wider than I had imagined. (again, no experience with this sort of thing) Third, I still don't really have them aimed well. I have them going where I want them, but I have no idea what they look like to oncoming traffic yet. Then the further I rode the more I took note of some things. The difference is subtle but substantial. I have the right one pointed slightly to the right to light the ditch. I think the reason I was initially dissapointed was that I was looking for a narrow blast beam but it gives a MUCH wider view out into the fields where the deer come from. I also didn't feel like I was getting the distance out of them that I should. I then realized that was a function of height. On a flat road from the height they are mounted you are only going to see a certain amount of highway before they are pointed into thin air. The further I rode, the more I came to appreciate what they WERE doing, instead of what I THOUGHT they would do. They work great, I think they are doing what they are designed to do and it has greatly increased vision on all sides. Probably the oddest thing that I noticed was after several miles of riding with the clean white light they provide, when I would meet a car and dim my lights, I was amazed at how dull and yellow average automobile lights looked as they draw close and fill your field of vision. Then you click these back on high and the world takes on the proper colors again. In the end, I am happy with the lights. My expectations were way to high for practical purposes. I could use some tips in aiming them. Like shining them on a wall at what distance gives me what result. I wrote here about my initial dissapointment for you to use on other new customers whose expectations might be too high. I appreciate your help here and am glad you are monitoring ADVRider. For the electrically declined, you might include some directions for installing the lights WITH the canbus adapter. Because there were instructions for installing the lights and instructions for installing the canbus adapter, but no instructions on how they worked together. Again, all's well that ends well, so I am not griping. Hopefully I have given you some feedback and information you can use in the future. Bob
