Difficult to get on and off main stand.

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Thanks for the comments and the great photos. I have taken some photos that can be seen here: https://picasaweb.google.com/109840758061372490709/BMWMainStand# of the current condition of the stand. Some are not so good but use the zoom tool to see them better. Please feel free to copy and edit them and post them here so that we may all benefit from the shared experience.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Not sure how the stand come off but it seems that I will have to remove the sump to get the stand off or am I missing a trick here?<o></o>
Remember now I am new to Airheads I am use to pre unit Triumphs, and those stands were great especially the '58- &#8216;62 stand, you just put your foot on the side lever connected to the stand, not the stand and it starts to raise the bike. <o></o>
Surely there must be a way to modify the stand that by placing your foot on a new modified side lever, using your body weight and with the help of the law of the leaver to make putting the bike on the main stand easier. <o></o>
Just a final thought is it necessary the front wheal stand so high of the ground? Could one cut a piece out the main stand and get a easier lifting effect.<o></o>

Probably technique. I am short, about 5'7" and could get my R100RS (heavy bitch she was, lovely though) and R80RT on the CS easy. BUT I did it by pulling it a few inches further forward than I wanted it actually parked, then pushed the stand down with the foot, and rolled it BACK whilst pulling up on the handle all whilst pushing down with the foot. It'll pop right on that way. Don't try to lift it straight up onto the centre stand.

Just did this again today, because i finally got around to it, and now i finally have a stand again. Didnt paint it yet, still mid oil change :)

bushy,
Personally I think, unless there is a specific bushing issue as has been mentioned, the G/S is a pita to get on the stand compared to alot of bikes.

I have a '96 R1100RT that weighs well over 600 lbs and it is easier to get it on and off of the stand than my G/S.

I think the intent of off-road use and trail repairs made BMW set the stand up to be more stable, but harder to lift on and off.

As far as getting off the stand, on both of my bikes I just put it in gear, tilt back, and let out the clutch, they drop right off. Pull the clutch in quickly after though....lol

81 G/S is not too bad if one has enough room to pull/lift at same time. a pita get on stand in tight quarters for me.

still not getting how weld mod works ... anyone has any better links to pics?

the area built up with weld moves the stop for the stand, which is the part that contacts the frame, so it doesn't go past center as far. ALL these stands wear, I've welded most of mine over the years. the weld fix, along with new bolts and bushings will make a noticable improvement.
i don't think your gonna get better pics than bushyb's.
also, worn suspension or too much sag will make it much harder to lift the bike onto the stand. if your bike has 35 year old clapped out suspension and the thing pretty much sits on the ground, it's gonna be a bear to get on the stand, regardless of how good the stand is functioning.

no problem with where to add metal. what I was not getting was .. how does adding metal help in getting your bike in the air onto the stand.

all adding metal could do is change where stand stops against frame. this would help with getting bike off center stand which is no biggie.

pivot point has to changed to reduce height bike has to be raised before tip-over. height of stand needs to be reduced or pivot point raised.

currently 81 G/S front wheel is 2in in the air. to deploy center stand, rear end raises 2.5-3in before passing tipping point then hitting stop.

what am I missing?

Good points cy. If you go to the effort to remove and weld the stand, then making the oval holes round, buying new bushes and bolts and adding some grease will transform the stand into something very usable. Don't just stop at welding the tip of the stand.

Welding the stand won't help get the bike on the stand. It will help getting the bike off the stand, which when fully loaded for touring is very difficult if your stand is crapped out. (/7)

What will help getting the bike on the stand are pivots in good order, technique, and a mechanism designed to work properly, for human strength.

A stand that does not lift the bike very much will be easy to use on a hard surface. The same stand will be useless on uneven ground or soft surfaces.

Try getting a loaded bike off a 'good' centre stand in soft ground.....it's difficult.

I think a c/stand has to be tailored to suit the individual rider.

OK... thanks for confirming what I thought to be the case. just so happens my stand's pivot is in good condition not wallowed out, greased. have never had any problems getting bike off stand, loaded or not. the fun part is getting bike on center stand....

I have two R100GS-PD's and really dislike the center stands... Was at the dealer the other day and put a new r1200gs up on it's stand. Nice. The way it should be. Just stand on it and the bike comes up. Also owned a '95 r1100gs and enjoyed the way the stand raised the bike almost effortlessly. Anyway... I'm building a better mouse trap. Will let you know how it goes. The later models, ie. the '95 GS's on have a lever so your body weight lifts the bike by stepping down instead of having to lift the beast. I have a bad back, so need to design a nice lever and weld it on to the existing center stand. This will happen soon , as I'm setting up my '92 for a S. America run and must be able to easily center stand the bike. I,ll come up with a workable solution and photograph it.

Thanks, Some good photos and measurement will be great.

Cy

Your centre stand on the 90/6 is a 'good one'. The centre stands on the 81-83 bikes were crap and much harder to use getting the bike on or off. I think that where the centre stand pivots in relation to the centre of weight on the bike might be an issue?

for my two airheads, no problems getting R90S or R80G/S on centerstand if I've got enough room. R90S is much easier than G/S due to much higher lift on G/S. both are in excellent condition with no bushing issues.

OT ... G/S fully loaded needs a good solid side stand. getting G/S loaded on stock centerstand is a chore. unless top box and/or rear drybag is mounted all the way back. no way I'm able swing my leg over to mount.

stock stand had to go on G/S due to difficulty of deploying while seated. a good solid aftermarket side stand is a must with loaded G/S.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230881586879?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Found a centerstand from a '99 GS and when I compared them decided to go with the late model. A much better design. Same size holes on top,a little taller. I already started to widen it to the same width as the stock stand. I will get pics and explain better.

I can painlessly put my G/S on the center stand barefoot after welding this little guy on. I've chopped, welded and rebuilt most things on this bike but I think this is one of the handiest mods I've ever done.

I like it it looks good, but what was the change the flat plate or the pipe or both?

Thread title caught my eye, as I seem to have trouble with BMW centerstands, too... my son and I bought an XS650 (Yamaha) and, though he doesn't want the centerstand permanently, I have used it alot in the bike build/rebuild... and it has what has been described ^ above: a tang that I stand on while I pull back, and ....zippedeedooooda it pops onto the stand. Something about the leverage of standing on that tang while I pull back, and it goes very very nicely. Unlike my 60/6, my 100/7 and now my 80ST.....





This photo shows the tang, which is big, beefy, and it actually WORKS. It tucks up quite neatly under the exhausts, and leaves the tang hanging out to where it can be pushed down easily, and stood upon with all of my 164.3#....:eek1



Tucked away:



Might have to fab up something similar for the BMW, after seeing how much easier this Japanese-engineered rig is.......

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Kind of a major project... widened, shortened, added top stop tabs, re-positioned, reinforced, and lengthened lift lever, added spring mounts, added square plate washers to bottom posts. Some mig, mostly tig. Grind, check fit, grind, etc... New bushings with extra bronze washers packed in high pressure grease at mounts with new longer s.s. bolts and new s.s. nyloc nuts. Installed springs.

Result. Was it worth it??? YES!!! With the lengthened lift lever, (about an inch), the 1990 GS-PD comes up easier than a new one. No lifting. Just step on it. It's very sure footed with the large washers on the bottom. Solid and strong.
I wish I could load the photos. Tried to drag and drop. Don't know...