R80 G/S Starting Woes

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by OrmondGS, May 14, 2006.

  1. OrmondGS

    OrmondGS Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Oddometer:
    406
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Well, my new to me '82 g/s has two small issues - first is a starting issue: sometimes when I hit the starter button absolutely nothing happens - no "click-click" even. Other times, she starts right up. Can't determine any pattern to it - sometimes when she's warm, sometimes when she's cold - doesn't seem to make a difference. Any suggestions on where to look first - is this a starter issue, a starter button issue, or something else (btw battery is in good shape)?
    Second issue: all of a sudden the odometer and trip meter have stopped working, although the speedometer itself continues to work ok - is it fixable(palo alto?) or replace it?
    #1
  2. Spud

    Spud Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2005
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    a few miles from the Rock Store
    Look at the relay....take it apart, clean the contacts..spray with contact cleaner...stick it back together and you're probably there.
    #2
  3. sharkey

    sharkey XLV750R

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2003
    Oddometer:
    876
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    I'd pop the top cover off the engine and check the voltage at the little spade lug on the starter solenoid ... see if the signal is getting lost before then or after then. Divide and conquer.

    -----sharks
    #3
  4. RocketJ

    RocketJ Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    674
    Neutral switch? Clutch switch?
    #4
  5. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2001
    Oddometer:
    1,361
    Location:
    St-George, Switzerland
    Hi,
    ... under exactly the same conditions? In that case, the starter button is the first suspect. Open the unit (but do not disassemble the switch!), and apply some electronics contact cleaner.

    Just fwiw: remember that you have to be in neutral, and/or the clutch pulled in - otherwise the starter won't engage.
    #5
  6. OrmondGS

    OrmondGS Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Oddometer:
    406
    Location:
    Central Florida
    I'll try cleaning up the start button first and see what happens. Bike is definitely in nuetral but now that I think about it, working the clutch a few times seems to suddenly get the starter working - is there a way to clean/check the clutch/starter switch?
    #6
  7. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2001
    Oddometer:
    1,361
    Location:
    St-George, Switzerland
    There may be several things, one of them is the switch that indicates "clutch is pulled" inside the clutch lever (a PITA to replace). From http://www.motobins.co.uk/services.php:

    "Does Your Boxer Neutral Lamp Flash when the clutch is disengaged? This means that the diode in the starter relay circuit has failed, and is short-circuited. The diode is built into the contact plate at the back of the headlamp shell (all twin-shock models except R45/65), contained within a black plastic cylindrical housing, plugged into the wiring below the starter relay (pre-'81 R45/65), or contained within the starter relay (all post-'81 R45/65 and Monolever models).

    Can't Start Your Boxer in Neutral? If you can only start by disengaging the clutch, but everything seems to work as it should, the starter relay diode has failed, becoming an open circuit, and must be replaced, as above."
    #7
  8. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    3,501
    Location:
    Madison WI
    Never hurts to go over all the electrical connections on your bike. Clean them up and use some dielectric grease on them. Start with the ground from the battery to the speedo cable bolt. JT
    #8
  9. Mugwest

    Mugwest "You mean this is the REAL world!?"

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    21,600
    Location:
    3rd Ring of Buzztopia
    Sharkey indirectly touched on the 1st item of bidness: make friends with and obtain a basic VOM (Volt/Ohm Meter), available all over the place, cheap as hell for a basic 'wallet' model from Radio Shack. This is essential for yr toolkit anyway, so get one.

    You need to establish baselines: Batt ground cleanliness and voltage (12.5V at very least), then what's getting where and when. You can then check continuity (unobstructed current flow) of any switch, then check (per Sharks) that V is reaching the starter solenoid etc.

    The suggestion to carefully disassemble relays etc is a good one (do cheap/free potential cleaning fixes first) but if you do it willy-nilly you won't know what you're changing/fixing. Electrics have a funny way of 'improving' just by a laying-on of hands-- but that may not be fixing the root issue. You have to measure.

    "To measure is to know"
    #9
  10. Middleweightboxer

    Middleweightboxer Middleweightboxer

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2005
    Oddometer:
    711
    Location:
    Paradise, TX
    :thumb All good advice from above.

    On the odometer, after many years of shaking the wheels on the odometer have probably shaken loose. I have fixed several of these over the years either by 1) wapping a little wire around the end of the odometer shaft to tighten up the wheels.
    2) put a little plastic spacer on the end of the shaft to hold the wheels closer togather or
    3) found the geared wheel turning on the shaft. Remove the gear and using a vicegrip squeese a little spline on the shaft to keep the gear from turning or put a spot of silicone or JB weld on the gear/shaft.

    Go for it.
    #10
  11. OrmondGS

    OrmondGS Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Oddometer:
    406
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Thanks for the suggestions - I'm going to start working on it and will report back soon!
    #11